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Old 04-15-2021, 08:06 PM   #21
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2021 Silverado/GMC

I contacted Furrion about issues with my wireless camera system. It turns out that for 2021 models, GMC & Chevy changed the way the vehicle distributes power through the 7 pin connector limiting the amperage to the camera. Furrion is working on an adapter to fix this problem. In the mean time, the only way around this problem is to use camper power only for the cameras.
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Old 04-16-2021, 04:06 PM   #22
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ASA Electronics PWMBUT Adapter -- Amazon

Team, I've read the reviews on Amazon ($19.99) and looks easy to install. You basically pull out the Furrion Read Camera--disconnect the connection at the running lights, splice the little pig tail in line with the running lights and back into the camera connections--tuck everything back into the trailer housing and poof, should work. Five star rating on Amazon states it works on their 2019-2021 Silverado/Sierra--I just ordered mine!

I'm still waiting to see what Furrion has, but the last adapter was another 7-pin male plug with a short 8" cable and another 7-pin female plug and this all plugs into your bumper........makes for a very long plug that might be subject to theft or vibration. (Just thinking).......course you can always zip tie it to the bumper.
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Old 04-16-2021, 04:33 PM   #23
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Amazon adapter part

Thanks for your reply, however when I copy the ASA adapter to amazon, only apple products come up. I found you have to specify GM Camera harness. (Ordered 1).
Thanks for info!!
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Old 04-17-2021, 08:53 AM   #24
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ASA Electronics PWMBUT Adapter -- Amazon

Try this Amazon link:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=PWMBUT&i=...f=nb_sb_noss_2
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Old 05-03-2021, 01:21 PM   #25
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Well, purchased the adapter from Amazon, installed it and, still no signal. I'm on the waiting list at Furrion for their adapter.
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Old 05-16-2021, 09:49 AM   #26
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Are you able to view on the dash factory monitor or do you have a separate monitor?
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Old 05-16-2021, 10:03 AM   #27
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Furrion Rear Camera

No, the Furrion Rear Camera needs their own monitor. This will not interface with Chevy's in dash monitor.
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Old 05-16-2021, 11:15 AM   #28
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Thank you for responding. Do you know of any camera that will ?
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Old 05-16-2021, 01:07 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S.Edington View Post
I'm making my own 12VDC/300mA power source to externally power the camera, so I can use. The parts are about $10.
What components did you use for this?

Thanks,

Adrien
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Old 08-27-2021, 07:38 AM   #30
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Use a relay

This is in fact a known issue with GM’s computer for the advanced trailer system. It only sends 6~7 volts through the harness for the running lights. It’s enough to turn the camera on, but not power the transceiver. I have read several articles about buying Furrion’s adapter but it doesn’t always work depending on the year. Others have also said they hard wire the lights to the battery on the camper, but then you need to worry about turning them on and off. A simpler solution that I found was to wire in a relay. Power from the battery, and control from the running light wire from the harness. Just did this yesterday and worked great. 2022 Silverado 2500 High Country.
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Old 10-09-2021, 02:22 PM   #31
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What kind of relay?

[QUOTE=Infirebvfd;2624735]This is in fact a known issue with GM’s computer for the advanced trailer system. It only sends 6~7 volts through the harness for the running lights. It’s enough to turn the camera on, but not power the transceiver.

Thanks Infirebvfd,
Can you send specific link or brand/model of relay that works for you? I know there is some concern on this tread about the 6-7 volts being enough voltage to trip the relay.

Also, any issues with this change triggering a lighting fault in the trucks trailering system?

Thanks again.
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Old 10-18-2021, 08:56 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Infirebvfd View Post
This is in fact a known issue with GM’s computer for the advanced trailer system. It only sends 6~7 volts through the harness for the running lights. It’s enough to turn the camera on, but not power the transceiver. I have read several articles about buying Furrion’s adapter but it doesn’t always work depending on the year. Others have also said they hard wire the lights to the battery on the camper, but then you need to worry about turning them on and off. A simpler solution that I found was to wire in a relay. Power from the battery, and control from the running light wire from the harness. Just did this yesterday and worked great. 2022 Silverado 2500 High Country.
[QUOTE=Katy44;2645723]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Infirebvfd View Post
This is in fact a known issue with GM’s computer for the advanced trailer system. It only sends 6~7 volts through the harness for the running lights. It’s enough to turn the camera on, but not power the transceiver.

Thanks Infirebvfd,
Can you send specific link or brand/model of relay that works for you? I know there is some concern on this tread about the 6-7 volts being enough voltage to trip the relay.

Also, any issues with this change triggering a lighting fault in the trucks trailering system?

Thanks again.
I'm waiting on Infirebvfd to let us know what relay worked for him too. Hopefully he can answer with info and pics.

Take care and stay safe -
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Old 10-26-2021, 10:59 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S.Edington View Post
Team, I've read the reviews on Amazon ($19.99) and looks easy to install. You basically pull out the Furrion Read Camera--disconnect the connection at the running lights, splice the little pig tail in line with the running lights and back into the camera connections--tuck everything back into the trailer housing and poof, should work. Five star rating on Amazon states it works on their 2019-2021 Silverado/Sierra--I just ordered mine!

I'm still waiting to see what Furrion has, but the last adapter was another 7-pin male plug with a short 8" cable and another 7-pin female plug and this all plugs into your bumper........makes for a very long plug that might be subject to theft or vibration. (Just thinking).......course you can always zip tie it to the bumper.
How has this been working for you? Do you have a list of parts and pictures for it?

Thanks and stay safe -
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Old 02-03-2022, 08:04 PM   #34
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Chevy / GMC 2020/21 Furrion camera workaround

Seems Furrion is having a tough time getting a suitable adapter to power their backup camera with 2020/21 GM heavy duty trucks like my Silverado 2500. So, I built a workaround using a Solid-State Relay circuit to power the rear camera from 12V battery power and not the lower voltage PWM that the Chevy is sending down the line for running lights. I have a 2021 Grand Design Reflection 297RSTS but this workaround should work for most travel trailers.
I didn’t want the truck to sense any power issues with the workaround AND I wanted a seamless fix that didn’t require manually switching the Relay on/off. To accomplish this, I used a solid-state relay (SSR) with a capacitor and diode to trigger the SSR input with the PWM voltage and send a full 12V to the camera and rear running lights.

Because the truck monitors the trailer running light connections, I left the front running lights on the original PWM green wire. These lights are turned on by the truck’s headlights like normal. The truck sees them on so no fault/warning on the truck infosystem.
I mounted the new SSR junction box near the existing junction box. In the box, the rear running lights and camera wire connects to the 12V SSR position #1 (full 12V). The PWM green wire connects to SSR #3 to active the SSR. The truck’s battery wire (full 12V) connects to SSR #2 and SSR #4 is ground. The capacitor is located in the SSR box, but the diode is outside the box as the box was getting a little crowded.
Finding a running light wire that feed only the rear of the trailer took investigation. Underneath the trailer on the front driver side, the truck side harness connects to the trailer harness in a small junction box (see pictures). I separated out the connections to the running lights (green wire). In my case, only one green wire exited the junction box to drive all running lights and camera. I tested different exposed green wires on the trailer to find one that only feed the rear running lights and the camera. I got lucky and the first wire I cut near the running light located underneath the hot water heater was a good one to split the running light circuit.

After all the wiring was installed and tested, I installed the rear back up camera and it connected to the wireless monitor right way with no issues, strong signal, and clear picture!

I’m happy this solution is “hands off”, no need to remember to flip a switch and no error messages.
Hopefully, the attached diagrams, parts list, and pictures will fill in the details for those dealing with a PWM system keeping you from powering your cameras.

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me.
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Old 03-26-2022, 10:39 AM   #35
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I used the part that S.Edington links to above, works perfectly and only $20.00.
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Old 03-26-2022, 10:50 AM   #36
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That's great! Glad to hear it. Much less cost/effort if it works.
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Old 03-27-2022, 03:59 PM   #37
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Sorry I haven’t post sooner on my solution. etrailer has something for 2019-2020 trucks but said it wouldn’t work on 2021’s. Having found nothing else out there to correct for the low voltage to the trailer lights I decided to try to make my own. Basically I just needed to get 12 volts to the taillights vs the 6-7 volts the truck was sending.

First I ordered from Amazon (pic 1) a 3' 7-way trailer extension cord ($20), a 4-pin 40/30 amp 12 DC waterproof relay($10), 12 AMG inline fuse holder with 30 amp fuses (5 pack $8) and Self-Solder Heat Shrink Butt Connector Solder Sleeve Waterproof Insulated Electrical Butt Splice Wire Terminals (120 pack $10). I cut the 7-way extension cord (pic 2) completely in half and stripped the outer coating leaving roughly 7-8 inches from each plug end. Thought I would use this outer coating to re-seal the wires but I didn’t as I used something else in the end.

I connected the parts/wires trimming the wires shorter using a hairdryer to heat the connectors to melt the solder & shrink wrap. This wasn’t working well so I then wrapped the wires & connectors with electrical tape. After I had it all wrapped, I found that the relay got damaged when I was replacing the top part of it back on. So I ordered a new one along with a new heat gun to melt the solder and shrink wrap.

When I went to replace the damaged relay, I found that I had inadvertently wired the positive trigger wire (white wire) to the trailer end instead of the truck end and the device wire (Blue) to the truck end vs the trailer end. Seeing how poorly the positive and negative wires where connected I bought from Home Depot, 14-8 AWG copper connectors (50 pack $7) and 3/8 x 3” heat shrink tubing($2) to use on the positive & negative wires (there 3 wires 2 10 AWG and 1 12 AWG to connect and the original connectors from Amazon were for max 10 AWG). I also bought a 8-2 AWG heat shrink tubing (2 pack $8) to cover all the wires in place of the trimmed outer coating I had originally planned on using. I slid the 8-2AWG shrink tubing on the trailer end wiring harness prior to reconnecting all the wires (can be seen in pic 3 on right).

Once everything was tested between the truck and 5th wheel with the camera working, I then I wrapped each connector with electrical tape for added support even though the shrink wrap was there. Then I slid the large heat shrink down over the wiring leaving the fuse holder and relay exposed. Finally I used electrical tape to wrap all to hold the relay and fuse holder in place as well to cover as best the area they protruded from around the shrink wrap.

All in all the total cost was higher than I anticipated. It ended up being about $75 (plus an additional $10 for a replacement relay). I also had purchased new wire strippers and a heat gun which I can’t attribute to this project alone as I will use them on other projects.

Even though it isn’t the prettiest thing (pic4) you might find out on the market I am happy it allows my camera to work in place of having to try to find a way to re-wire the camera from the taillights to another source. The overall length of the cord went from an original 3’ down to about 2’.

Side note – I did look at putting the relay on the 5th wheel in the hitch area, but it looked like a rats nest and if I ever changed trucks I might not need this relay then.

List of parts:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Ele...-000/205878599
https://www.homedepot.com/p/GARDNER-...375B/202797317
https://www.homedepot.com/p/GARDNER-...0025/205881703

Hope this helps someone along the way. Sorry don’t have more pictures of project but hopefully you will be able to decipher how I did this.

Be safe -
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Old 03-27-2022, 06:23 PM   #38
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I got word last month that Furrion now has an adapter for my 2021 Silverado. I ordered it and it works just fine. It was $53.
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Old 03-27-2022, 09:57 PM   #39
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Quote:
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I got word last month that Furrion now has an adapter for my 2021 Silverado. I ordered it and it works just fine. It was $53.
Like I said mine is not pretty. Wish Furrion had had that prior to me doing my own. I had called them some weeks prior to me cobbling mine together. If mine goes haywire, I would definitely order one from them.

Be safe out there -
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Old 04-06-2022, 07:25 AM   #40
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Do you have a part number for the adapter for 2021 Chevy
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