Grill mounting rail pulled loose - needs repair

KenNTennessee · 07-10-2012, 11:07 PM

My 2009 Rockwood 2304 has the grill mounting rail on the side. It pulled loose under normal use last week, and it appears to have been mounted with some very short (about 1/2") self tapping screws. I assume they were not just screwed to the vinyl siding, but must have been into the aluminum frame?

Any ideas on how to re-mount the rail? We use a small stainless steel grill and the small shelf that came with the trailer. I don't feel that we've overloaded it, but it needs to be sturdy for holding a gas grill, don't want any chances of it coming loose while in use. Thanks for your help!
Ken

buffalohunter · 07-10-2012, 11:37 PM

Slightly larger screws or pop-rivets should do the trick. I wouldn't use a longer screw.

miatared · 07-11-2012, 05:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KenNTennessee

My 2009 Rockwood 2304 has the grill mounting rail on the side. It pulled loose under normal use last week, and it appears to have been mounted with some very short (about 1/2") self tapping screws. I assume they were not just screwed to the vinyl siding, but must have been into the aluminum frame?

Any ideas on how to re-mount the rail? We use a small stainless steel grill and the small shelf that came with the trailer. I don't feel that we've overloaded it, but it needs to be sturdy for holding a gas grill, don't want any chances of it coming loose while in use. Thanks for your help!
Ken

Sorry, but I would not say 'under normal use'. It's only designed for the little Rvq style grill.

I suggest your grill may be too heavy...

Re-attach the rail and start using a separate table for your grill before something more serious happens.

DAISY BOYKIN · 07-11-2012, 05:50 AM

As stated in a previous post, use a slightly larger screw or move rail 1/4" to the left or right, re-drill holes, remount and hope for the best?

The grill that comes with the Forest River products "SIDEKICK 500" is a very light weight grill. Maybe your grill is too heavy for the mount!

TURBS · 07-11-2012, 06:22 AM

Consider using a bonding compound between the rail and camper sidewalk as well as the next size larger screws.

OldCoot · 07-11-2012, 07:10 AM

Ours pulled loose on our 08 Flagstaff and the dealer put a backer board inside the camper and used longer larger ss screws. Luckily the added board was under the stovetop and hidden.

**Herk7769** · 07-11-2012, 08:10 AM

I like these fasteners (Wing-Its) when strength is needed.

OldCoot · 07-11-2012, 09:06 AM

The main problem is the fiberglass wall is just too thin to take the load and it's difficult to get expanding inserts to expand inside the camper wall due to the styrofoam being glued to the backside. If you can get an "L" shaped pc of wire inside the hole and clean off the styrofoam, it might hold better, but a backer board would be much better. If it is exposed on the inside, I would make some sort decorative pc out of matching wood and stain it. Stainless screws would be a must.
Ran into a similar problem adding the outlet to the outside with the outlet box and the turn out tabs for holding the box to the inside of the wall. Had to clear the styrofoam out of the way before they would engage.

Rugged Brown · 07-11-2012, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by herk7769

I like these fasteners (Wing-Its) when strength is needed.

Herk: I never read the whole writeup on those wing -it nuts, but is there an application with them that would hold a bycycle rack to a fifth wheel hitch. I have 4 holes drilled in the hitch but can't get a nut on the inside of the bolt. Sorry to hijack this thread.

SALTY · 07-11-2012, 09:41 AM

Just a question on all your great ideas but would you have to calk the hole also to prevent cracking of the skin when installing the scews , rivets or wing its ?

OldCoot · 07-11-2012, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SALTY

Just a question on all your great ideas but would you have to calk the hole also to prevent cracking of the skin when installing the scews , rivets or wing its ?

I would definitely caulk around the holes to prevent water intrusion, I don't think the caulking would prevent cracking the skin tho'.

KenNTennessee · 07-11-2012, 11:51 AM

Denis, I am using the small RV style grill specifically made to hang on the mounting rail. It is the same grill that comes as an OEM option. It attaches to the OEM propane hose that came with the trailer, and it's not flat on the bottom, so no way to use it as a table top grill. It can only work as an RV mounted grill.

Thank for your thoughts though, I appreciate the response.

OldCoot · 07-11-2012, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KenNTennessee

Denis, I am using the small RV style grill specifically made to hang on the mounting rail. It is the same grill that comes as an OEM option. It attaches to the OEM propane hose that came with the trailer, and it's not flat on the bottom, so no way to use it as a table top grill. It can only work as an RV mounted grill.

Thank for your thoughts though, I appreciate the response.

If it is like ours, you can turn the mount that fits on the side on the part that extends down from the rail and the grill has a T bracket on both sides that allows you to sit the grill in the T and on a table.

KenNTennessee · 07-11-2012, 12:15 PM

Thanks to everyone for all the ideas. I had not heard of the wing-it fasteners before. I did think of putting long ss screws through the wall with a backer board or metal channel inside. Only one end would be exposed under table, so maybe I can come up with something that looks okay. I thought about trying to pop rivet (or wing-it) into the aluminum framing bonded inside the wall, but not sure that would be strong enough.
I'm using the Olympian 5500 SS RV grill shipping weight was weight 30 lbs. Camping World shows the Sidekick 500 ships at 28.5 lbs. so 1.5 lbs difference should not be causing the problem.
I appreciate everyone taking their time to respond. Thanks!

Mark and Linda · 08-01-2012, 09:45 PM

Ken,

Did you get your rail remounted yet? Just wondering on what you ended up using.

TURBS · 08-02-2012, 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark and Linda

Ken,

Did you get your rail remounted yet? Just wondering on what you ended up using.

Mounting mine in a week or so when my camper comes back from the dealer.

A factory rep told me to pre drill holes and stuff with silicone before adding screws.
He also said to mount through side were the floor comes to side of unit.
Ron

OldCoot · 08-02-2012, 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by f1100turbo

Mounting mine in a week or so when my camper comes back from the dealer.

A factory rep told me to pre drill holes and stuff with silicone before adding screws.
He also said to mount through side were the floor comes to side of unit.
Ron

Would be wise to add a decorative backing board.

KenNTennessee · 08-02-2012, 11:35 PM

I bought threaded binder posts and stainless steel machine screws with a decorative oak backing board. I plan to install this week by drilling all the way through, and will seal where the screws go through the outer skin. Binder posts have a head, and look similar to a screw, except without the slot and have female threads. So these will go through the backing board and the posts will go into the wall from the inside, the screws will go through the rail and the wall from the outside, screwing into the bider posts. This should be strong and have a nice appearance from both sides.
I was afraid that using pop rivets or wing-it fasteners would cause the skin to delaminate from the vacuum bonded panel, creating more issues. If I can figure out how to post pictures, I'll post how it looks when I'm done.

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