Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy
Wow.
I have been in electrical/electronics all my life and have no idea about what you are planning to do.
Sure you can do it but.............
Why is the question that comes to mind first.
Do you expect to live in your Georgetown for 10 plus years?
Do you plan on using solar to recharge your batteries or just shore power?
Do you plan on increasing the battery charger in the Georgetown from 70 amp to a larger one?
Do you know that the engine Alternator is I believe only 75 amps.
I suspect you are highly skilled as you seem to know what you are talking about in most of your statements but back to my 1st question why do you what to go thru all this cost, change outs, and the possibility it may not work?
|
Hi Iggy,
Haha.... thanks for your comments and concern.
Motor home came with coach batteries and chassis battery. Traveling - all batteries are charged by the V10. Parked - all batteries are charged by the converter. Both systems protect against overcharging.
My wife and I are planning on living/traveling in the RV until we don't want to anymore. Not promised tomorrow so living for today.
I do have 120 watts of solar right now but that's for prior small RV. I will use it to supplement/reduce need for generator now.
Battle Born lithium battery actually prefers less than 100 amp alternator to prevent overcharging. They have battery management system to prevent overdraw of alternator.
We boondock about 1/3 of the time and do not want to run generator more than I have to - personal preference.
I think the concept is pretty straightforward. I may have overcomplicated the first explanation:
It looks like you have a Forest River GT. We probably have the same battery control center. I'm sure you enjoy/use the ability to charge all battery systems whether parked or traveling. Me too.
But the battery control center that Forest River uses is pretty unique. They include a power and fuse center with the battery isolator, where most RVs just have a dedicated device for battery isolation. And the device they use doesn't operate at lithium voltages.
So.... I cannot just swap devices because I need to leave the power and fuse center. I just want to disable the battery isolator functionality from my current unit and install a standalone battery isolator that supports lithium.
The good news is that the manufacturer of the existing battery control center has provided the schematics that show which wire (just one wire) that I can pull off the coil relay to disable the battery isolator.
And then I can install the standalone lithium battery isolator that will work. But I will test and confirm first - before buying new batteries. Stay tuned....