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Old 04-16-2021, 09:12 PM   #1
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has anyone cut in outdoor speakers?

Any tips/tricks? plan is to measure and cut behind microwave and fridge, run wiring through cabinets to head unit mounted at door. was going to cut inside panel first in case theres wiring or a framing member i can adjust without ruining the siding
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Old 04-17-2021, 10:16 AM   #2
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You haven't indicated what type of rig you are planning on doing this to or what the outside skin is composed of. If its tin I would use a nibbler if cutting into fiberglass style I would make sure the area being cut is first taped and the pattern transferred to the tape and then cut to prevent chipping.
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Old 04-19-2021, 10:22 AM   #3
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I would picture the process being similar to what RMA did on his door that you saw. Found this link that may give you some ideas: https://caravan.hemax.com/Reviews/35...ernal_speakers

Be sure to collect pictures of your process to share.

Have fun.
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Old 04-19-2021, 10:33 AM   #4
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I replaced the one lousy outdoor speaker on my smooth side TT with a Garmin Fusion speaker panel. You can buy a spacer for it that allows for surface mounting, so no cutting was necessary at all, I just used existing speaker wire path for wiring to head unit. Huge difference in sound quality, like night and day. Even at low volume, so much more bass and better sound quality. The OEM speaker was the cheapest crap all weather Furrion speaker available.
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Old 04-19-2021, 11:55 AM   #5
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Sorry about leaving out the details - its an aluminum siding model 178bhsk. I am using a brand new 5” hole saw to cut in the speakers. I just dont want to hit framing and the depth of the speakers will need cutting all the way through so i will be cutting the inside first so I dont ruin a siding panel. My fridge is 12v only so easy to slide out and get behind. Also behind the microwave/silverware drawer is easy to get to inside. I want to make 100% sure i dont hit something from the outside and have to replace siding.
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Old 04-19-2021, 12:33 PM   #6
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Hopefully, the center mandrel of the hole saw will be hitting something solid, not just spinning through the aluminum sheet metal.

Not that it can't be done that way, but it will be an adventure!

Rich
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Old 04-19-2021, 01:10 PM   #7
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Old 04-19-2021, 02:56 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by rollscanardly View Post
Hopefully, the center mandrel of the hole saw will be hitting something solid, not just spinning through the aluminum sheet metal.

Not that it can't be done that way, but it will be an adventure!

Rich
not sure what you mean here, I'm in commercial construction so not my first rodeo with a hole saw by any means, just worried about the unknowns between the interior panel, insulation (?) and exterior paneling. Not 100% sure how they construct these
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Old 04-19-2021, 03:01 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by NJKris View Post
I replaced the one lousy outdoor speaker on my smooth side TT with a Garmin Fusion speaker panel. You can buy a spacer for it that allows for surface mounting, so no cutting was necessary at all, I just used existing speaker wire path for wiring to head unit. Huge difference in sound quality, like night and day. Even at low volume, so much more bass and better sound quality. The OEM speaker was the cheapest crap all weather Furrion speaker available.
these are the ones i went with (incl the LED controller):
Kicker Marine 6.5's

With this head unit - i know specs are relative but they listed the highest wattage per channel which i guess anyone could do:

Boss MECH-LESS Multimedia Player

I may cut in some RCA ports to run back to it so when the TV is mounted outside i can use the speakers rather than the TV speakers
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Old 04-19-2021, 03:17 PM   #10
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I just installed a baggage door into the side of my 2014 Shamrock... an inch thick piece of Styrofoam sandwiched between two thin pieces of luan plywood...

read about it here...

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ss-228807.html
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Old 04-19-2021, 03:25 PM   #11
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I just installed a baggage door into the side of my 2014 Shamrock... an inch thick piece of Styrofoam sandwiched between two thin pieces of luan plywood...

read about it here...

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ss-228807.html
i did read this.....so no framing? I find that hard to believe - did you use a stud finder or something and avoid them? Or did you just cut through them?
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Old 04-19-2021, 03:27 PM   #12
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(vertical framing i mean)
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Old 04-19-2021, 03:27 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcrevs View Post
these are the ones i went with (incl the LED controller):
Kicker Marine 6.5's

With this head unit - i know specs are relative but they listed the highest wattage per channel which i guess anyone could do:

Boss MECH-LESS Multimedia Player

I may cut in some RCA ports to run back to it so when the TV is mounted outside i can use the speakers rather than the TV speakers
Anything will be an improvement over the OEM. They put a Furrion radio in mine, that IS NOT EVEN STEREO! I didn't think you could even BUY a non-stereo head unit!
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Old 04-19-2021, 03:32 PM   #14
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Anything will be an improvement over the OEM. They put a Furrion radio in mine, that IS NOT EVEN STEREO! I didn't think you could even BUY a non-stereo head unit!
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Old 04-19-2021, 03:33 PM   #15
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not sure what you mean here, I'm in commercial construction so not my first rodeo with a hole saw by any means, just worried about the unknowns between the interior panel, insulation (?) and exterior paneling. Not 100% sure how they construct these
All I meant was that the hole saw needs the center drill ( mandrel) to stabilize the saw.

So, it's recommended that the mandrel has something of moderate thickness to bite into.

Just drilling into the thin aluminum skin will result in the mandrel wallowing in that center hole, and the saw jumping around.

So...just hang on tight!

Rich
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Old 04-19-2021, 03:38 PM   #16
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i did read this.....so no framing? I find that hard to believe - did you use a stud finder or something and avoid them? Or did you just cut through them?
I suspect there is vertical framing somewhere... but not where I cut. This is my second baggage door mod... the first went into the rear and no vertical framing yet. That wall stuff is tough, as it is bonded together in an aluminum frame... fiberglass, plywood, foam, plywood all vacuum bonded together.

I suggest you drill some 1/8" holes an inch apart to determine if you hit something... just a small hole to patch if you do hit a stud...

good luck...
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Old 04-19-2021, 08:30 PM   #17
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Probably "non-stereo because the speakers are mis-wired.

My next project is to pull radio, disconnect wires, isolate wires for speakers, then reconnect properly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NJKris View Post
Anything will be an improvement over the OEM. They put a Furrion radio in mine, that IS NOT EVEN STEREO! I didn't think you could even BUY a non-stereo head unit!
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Old 04-19-2021, 08:37 PM   #18
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Mike, I completely pulled the ONE outdoor speaker the trailer came with and put on the sound board (incorporates both left and right channels). All the wiring was there, but later I found out the Furrion head unit is MONO, not stereo. It is the DV7200
2-Zone Mono Entertainment System

I guess whoever sources AV stuff for Forest River doesn't know that STEREO is all the rage with the kids these days.... And that is the UPGRADE I got from Forest River when I complained about the DV7100 teh camper came with, which was not even dual zone. (you had to use the balance control to switch from inside speakers to outside speaker).
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Old 04-19-2021, 09:30 PM   #19
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Before you decide on cutting anything or drilling through anything, take a good close look at wireless technology and what it can do. I have a Viozio 5.1 system that I can move anywhere I desire within 30 feet from the trailer and get FULL 5.1 THEATER SOUND... the Bass line can be felt in your thoracic cavity!! So many options... if you just take the time to LOOK !!!!
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Old 04-19-2021, 11:32 PM   #20
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Putting holes in like that can cause big leaks. You could mount speakers under your trailer. Like these.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000A5S9...AT5XWEZQ?psc=1

Or go the Bluetooth portable speaker route.

I built my own Bluetooth speaker 50w x2 plus 100w to sub in the middle.
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