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Old 05-06-2011, 04:13 PM   #1
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Post Horst Miracle Probe 5th Wheel Install #1

Well, what a wonderful two days this has been. (One more to go but it is inside the camper work unrelated to the Horst Probes). (TV outlets in storage area and Inverter circuits to Entertainment cenrter - More on that later).

So, Have you ever wondered as I have, just what is under the Black Coreplast belly liner? What do the tanks look like? How is the handle hooked up to the dump valves? WHERE is the fresh water tank and how is the vent actually plumbed?

Well you nice folks will get a ring side seat for this project.
STEP ONE:
DO NOT PICK A WINDY DAY. Seriously what a bummer trying to fight that plastic sheet and not tear anything. Glad it was not so bad today putting it back up. Worse, since the project involved running coax and Romex to the rear entertainment center, not only the front cover, but the rear cover had to come off.

There is mud everywhere (STILL after 3 washes) from ONE night camping at Fort Bragg. (Never again).

I found out the camper was wired just like I would. Home Run and dangling.

More in Post #2
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Old 05-06-2011, 04:18 PM   #2
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The trick to getting the old probes out is to remove the first locking nut, take the wire off, unscrew the second nut till it is at the TOP of the threaded rod and bang it flush with the tank. Then using side cutters grasp the rubber seal and twist that sucker right out.

The new probes are installed in the top two spots. NOTE THE FLATS. They must point down to allow the TP shield to be on top.
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Old 05-06-2011, 04:21 PM   #3
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Post #3

The old probes look like they are like grommets, but apparently they get that shape when they are tighened down. Here is a comparison photo of the Black tank probes and the New Horst black tank probes. The one with the spiral on the end is the gray water probe.
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Old 05-06-2011, 04:26 PM   #4
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Post #4

Folks will tell you there is no one around more (pardon the expression) anal about flushing and cleaning the black tank, and you can tell from the photo with the side cutters (though still shockingly covered with bits) fairly clean after two years of mostly dry camping.

NOT SO WITH THE GRAY TANK. Who ever said you don't need to worry about the gray tank because it gets all the soap, need to look at these probes. The photo with the 4 probes in it were gray water probes just as they came out. The single one is the bottom black water probe.
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Old 05-06-2011, 04:32 PM   #5
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Post Post #5

So why does my tank read the way it does? Why does the 1/3 full light come on with the first flush? Because the 1/3 light is really a "Not Empty" light.

Check out where they are installed. The lowest screw head on the righ hand side is the 1/3 full light. The one to the left of the dump valve is the "Ground" for all three lights. When the tank is empty, the "Empty" light just means the system has power to the red resistor pack in the photo. When the water level hits the lowest probe, the 1/3 light goes on. As it rises to the 2nd probe (about 1/2 actual) the 2/3 light goes on, at the 3rd light the panel will say "full".
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Old 05-06-2011, 04:34 PM   #6
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Thanks for sharing this Lou.
Very interesting.

I have wondered what lies beneath the black panel under the trailer.
I have been too lazy to pull it down and check.

I think that the manufacturer should add rinse capability to all of the tanks.

What would it add? a couple hundred bucks?
In the scheme of things I think it would be worth it.

Bill
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Old 05-06-2011, 04:36 PM   #7
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Post #6 FRESH WATER TANK

Well, I found it.
The vent line looks good and straight and at the top (sorta) where it is supposed to be. I was shocked (not literally ) to find out the fresh tank DOES have a heating pad. It is the only tank supported by a piece of plywood and is located between the wheels.

Oh, I did not change the fresh water tank probes because they indicate fine. Note the indicator levels though and the location of the 12VDC pump inlet. It is "full" (water gushing out the vent) when it is not actually full and the pump will suck air when it is not actually "empty." The Petcock drain IS at a relatively low point and will drain the tank almost dry.
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Old 05-06-2011, 04:40 PM   #8
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Post #7 Structure

For those of you who think the Ultra-Lites can carry anything, check out these frame photos. Heck back by that tin bumper there is NO cross member; just the tin bumper. The other cross members are 1/2 the height of the I beam frame rails. I am sure they support the camper at it's max load just fine, but I would not go over!

Oh, one more thing. That white wire is the ground for the Concertone radio. You can't even check it without dropping the belly cover.
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Old 05-06-2011, 04:43 PM   #9
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Finally Post #8

The heating pads are from Therma Heat and 12 VDC. There are 3 of them and they will suck your battery dry if you leave them on while dry camping.
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Old 05-06-2011, 07:18 PM   #10
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One of these days I will check my underbelly I did have part of it down my black and gray tanks are running with the frame they are 50 gals and verry long not to wide didn't have tank heaters though they do have a flex duct from the heater dropping between them somewhere up front where I didn't go would have to drop the gas lines to get to the bolts so Next time maybe.

Good information Herk Thanks.
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Old 05-06-2011, 07:56 PM   #11
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Lou. How is the belly liner fastened up? Still not able to get under the fifth wheel after hip surgery, but I am very curious about it. Thanks, Larry.
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Old 05-06-2011, 08:07 PM   #12
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Thanks for sharing, always wondered what is behind the belly cover. From the "grommet" like depression on the old probes it appears (and good to know) that the tanks' walls are nice and thick.
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Old 05-06-2011, 08:31 PM   #13
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Notice the bent brackets on my 2011 Rockwood. The angles bent where the have slots in them. Something else to fix this month
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Old 05-06-2011, 10:09 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michigan-traveler View Post
Lou. How is the belly liner fastened up? Still not able to get under the fifth wheel after hip surgery, but I am very curious about it. Thanks, Larry.
It was a PITA to get them down (and UP!).

They were stapled to wood strips initially and then screwed with strips of aluminum to hold the plastic CorePlast firmly.

I had to use a razor knife to slice through the plastic held by the staples, then unscrew the metal strips to drop the plastic. It was difficult to work with that big sheet of plastic on a windy day. There were hidden screws, obscured gas lines, and the sides of the plastic were slid under the metal skirting to brighten my day.
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Old 05-06-2011, 10:11 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yvesm View Post
Notice the bent brackets on my 2011 Rockwood. The angles bent where the have slots in them. Something else to fix this month
Wow, I did not check for that.
Those photos would have been very helpful yesterday.
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Old 05-07-2011, 09:59 AM   #16
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Excellent post Lou!

I am not sure about the thanks button, do I click it in each of your posts in this thread for you to get "FULL" credit or just select one of them?

Some time ago I started to remove the underbelly of our Rockwood. We are getting limited heat out of a couple of our furnace vents and I expect the duct work is kinked somewhere. I quickly realized it was going to be more involved than time permitted at the moment, so I aborted the project. I still need to tackle it, but it has already reached 100 degrees here in Phoenix and for some reason fixing the heating in the 5'er doesn't seem like a priority at the moment. I wonder why that is.........

Great post Lou and many thanks
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Old 05-25-2011, 05:28 AM   #17
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As always...your detail and photos very much appreciated. You are a great "teacher". Thanks
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Old 05-25-2011, 03:20 PM   #18
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Great post Lou.
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