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Old 09-09-2015, 07:26 PM   #21
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Ok. I am working on the 50 amp hw unit. I understand the jumper on L1 to L3...on the T sides of the contactor there are village sensors. T1 and T3 green stripe and not. What do I do with the non green stripe sensor since there is no T3 or red out?


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Old 09-09-2015, 07:34 PM   #22
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Sorry. Voltage sensors


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Old 09-09-2015, 10:23 PM   #23
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No ideas?

Posting to keep fresh


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Old 09-10-2015, 10:31 AM   #24
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Don't worry about the current sensor for T3. A wire doesn't need to go through it. It won't have any current running through it, just like most 50Amp units when they aren't running the second A/C.
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Old 09-10-2015, 07:16 PM   #25
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Thank you. I will admit something. I was scared when I got to the installation and saw the two sensors. These are actually amperage sensors.
I wasn't sure what to do and thought I might have to exchange for a 30 amp even though I have read many times about installing on a 30 amp system.

Here is the official answer from Donald at PI.
1. Best option: put both sensors on t1 line in the correct direction spaced as far apart as you can. He said use wire ties(aka chicken tongues) to separate. This will read amperage...the same, but no error code or dead line.
2. Do not use black/non green tape sensor, but insulate with something so it doesn't bounce around in the box. There will be no amps..so a false code or something.

No.1 is best choice he advised.

Customer service was excellent as noted here.

I told him they should be making donations to the forum because we/yall prolly sell a great part of what they sell...well some percentage anyway.

Thanks for all the help.


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Old 09-11-2015, 04:23 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Iwannacamp View Post
Thank you. I will admit something. I was scared when I got to the installation and saw the two sensors. These are actually amperage sensors.
I wasn't sure what to do and thought I might have to exchange for a 30 amp even though I have read many times about installing on a 30 amp system.

Here is the official answer from Donald at PI.
1. Best option: put both sensors on t1 line in the correct direction spaced as far apart as you can. He said use wire ties(aka chicken tongues) to separate. This will read amperage...the same, but no error code or dead line.
2. Do not use black/non green tape sensor, but insulate with something so it doesn't bounce around in the box. There will be no amps..so a false code or something.

No.1 is best choice he advised.

Customer service was excellent as noted here.

I told him they should be making donations to the forum because we/yall prolly sell a great part of what they sell...well some percentage anyway.

Thanks for all the help.


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I think that putting them both on the same line will give you a doubled current readout, since it will think that the same current is being consumed by both output lines.
(I'm fairly convinced of this, remembering back to electronics degree stuff)
These inductive sensors are not exactly very accurate anyway, but if you're interested in the readout then I'd leave one hanging
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Old 09-11-2015, 05:47 PM   #27
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I think that putting them both on the same line will give you a doubled current readout, since it will think that the same current is being consumed by both output lines.

(I'm fairly convinced of this, remembering back to electronics degree stuff)

These inductive sensors are not exactly very accurate anyway, but if you're interested in the readout then I'd leave one hanging

According to the expert it will work correctly and give same display. I will know tonight... I will post when I finish.


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Old 09-11-2015, 07:34 PM   #28
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According to the expert it will work correctly and give same display. I will know tonight... I will post when I finish.
Would be interested to know if you do get the same result using one or both of the current sensors, since it would give a hint as to how they're wired.
I'd have suspected that they use inductive current sensors wired in parallel to get the combined current draw from both lines, but perhaps they measure individually and only show one at a time on the 50A unit, or some other setup
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Old 09-11-2015, 11:18 PM   #29
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Would be interested to know if you do get the same result using one or both of the current sensors, since it would give a hint as to how they're wired.

I'd have suspected that they use inductive current sensors wired in parallel to get the combined current draw from both lines, but perhaps they measure individually and only show one at a time on the 50A unit, or some other setup

Using both on a 30amp 3wire system gets the same reading assuming you add the L3 to L1 jumper. That provides false voltage to the voltage sensor. The "amp sensor" is simply a amp probe type reading so it is the same also.

Funny thing. The man from PI suggested I always use the 50amp connection if available with an adapter because it provides more available wattage... My understanding was the available wattage vs used(30 in my case) maybe was cleaner/more efficient in certain times when loads vary. He also said to check both for the best voltage supply. In peak demand times the 50 could be better or 30 depending on who is using what. It was interesting. I will get a good adapter to check it.

After installing mine I got 117 on each leg and 9 amps(converter) and 17 amps a/c and converter.

I also got code E10 which is surge failure. It was after 10 so I quit for the night. As Google noted I would need a new board. Wondie. I will call them next week and see. I need to turn the breaker off and recheck. I was sweaty and tired so I gave in after I cleaned for a bit. Funny I got no sparks or anything when I plugged up. Makes me wonder if I messed something up.


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Old 09-12-2015, 06:50 AM   #30
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Hope you get it sorted out.
To be honest I wish I'd bought the 50A unit to future proof myself, but I have the 30A one with the remote display
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Old 09-12-2015, 07:09 AM   #31
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Old 09-12-2015, 08:52 AM   #32
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Iwannacamp,thanks for the Updates! Sounds like PI is easy to work with and Helpful! Youroo!!
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Old 09-12-2015, 09:49 AM   #33
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I'll fly this idea by for a thought. Would it work if you ran a 50 amp cord with upgraded plug connectors, 6 gauge wire to the fuse box and upgrade the circuit breaker to a 50 amp? This would increase the power coming in to 6,000 watts from 3,600. That's because each wire coming from pedestal is increased from 10 gauge to 6 gauge. The true 50 amp service would deliver 12,000 watts and this idea is 1/2 of that because you are only using one hot line instead of two. You could always use the second hot for second A/C with a second breaker box.
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Old 09-12-2015, 10:40 AM   #34
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I'll fly this idea by for a thought. Would it work if you ran a 50 amp cord with upgraded plug connectors, 6 gauge wire to the fuse box and upgrade the circuit breaker to a 50 amp? This would increase the power coming in to 6,000 watts from 3,600. That's because each wire coming from pedestal is increased from 10 gauge to 6 gauge. The true 50 amp service would deliver 12,000 watts and this idea is 1/2 of that because you are only using one hot line instead of two. You could always use the second hot for second A/C with a second breaker box.

Ok. I am certainly NO expert. I will tell you what I think.

A 50amp service connection is 4 wires. I assume you have a 30 amp converter/inverter what ever you want to call it. You can pull from the 50amp outlet, but you can only use 3 legs on a 30 amp system. An adapter from 50 to 30 ties the two 110 legs together as j understand to the L1 leg of the power cord. That gives the upgrade as PI said and a POSSIBLE benefit.

This is my interpretation.


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Old 09-12-2015, 10:44 AM   #35
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Maybe this will help...

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Old 09-12-2015, 11:26 AM   #36
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My thought is a 30 amp cord uses three 10 gauge wires to power the RV. If you use a 50 amp cord that has 6 gauge wires X4 and use three of these wires (hot, neutral, & ground)for your power supply you will upgrade it to one 50 amp line. The normal 50 amp service uses two 50 amp lines for a total of 12,000 watts and using one hot line of the two hot lines will give you 6,000 watts (half of the normal). This is 2,400 watts better than the 3,600 watts of the standard 30 amp system.

The converter only breaks down the power from 120 volts to 12 volts to charge the battery and power the lights and 12 volt appliances. The A/Cs, water heater, TVs and microwaves are 120 volts. An inverter changes the battery power of 12 volts to 120 volts ac.
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Old 09-12-2015, 11:55 AM   #37
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I am good on the converter info...we agree on that. I was saying PI said there was an available current benefit of using a 50amp adapter. Because of available wattage. The wire size on mine is 8 I guess. It is heavier than 10ga. I didn't look at the cable yet. If you use a 50amp wire and leave off L3 in the coach...maybe the cord being heavier would have a positive affect.


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Old 09-12-2015, 12:55 PM   #38
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There are (3) 6 AWG and (1) 8 AWG wires in a 50 amp cable. My proposed hook up doesn't use an adapter but it needs to rewire the whole connection to the RV fuse box with 6 gauge wire including changing the 30 amp breaker to a 50. The weak link of my idea is will the fuse box be able handle single 50 amps hook up.
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Old 09-12-2015, 04:26 PM   #39
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Hmmm. I cannot see why the panel won't handle it...I would be worried about the trailer wring if you didn't add circuits. My wire is very small looking.
I don't have an educated answer maybe someone else will.


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Old 09-12-2015, 07:11 PM   #40
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Running half of a 50 amp service to a 30 power panel/converter technically would work and the 30 amp breaker terminal would most likely accept the #6 wire (I haven't actually pulled one to find out).

The 50 amp breaker protects the wire from the post to the 30 amp breaker and the 30 amp breaker protects the bus from it to the other breakers. Then the branch breakers protect the individual circuit wiring.

What you would gain by doing this is better receptacles in the post (usually) and less voltage drop. The down side would be heavier and stiffer cable, and having to carry an adapter for those campgrounds that don't have 50 amp service.

This scenario assumes that you run the #6 cable all the way to the 30 amp breaker. If you have a marineco connector for the power cord, replacing just the outside cable would be very dangerous because the wire from the connector to the power panel/converter would still be #10.
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