Installing LED Taillights

[Grapehound]

I am replacing the old incandescent tailights on our 2014 Rockwood 8282 Signature fifth wheel. People seem to try to pass us on a multi-lane highway even when we are clearly signalling a lane change and -- while some are just unsafe drivers in a hurry -- i worry that when the sun shines on the back of our trailer that it washes out the dull taillight signals.

I am adding bright LED tailights along with a center LED light bar, such as they use on pickup trucks. It has a taillight and brake light function across the whole light bar and flashes bright yellow LED's for turn signalling. Fortunately, I can access all the tailight wires inside the back of the RV by removing the couch across the back.

I am trying to figure out how best to remove the caulking material which covered the top and sides of the old taillight locations. The new LED taillights are slightly smaller so they won't cover these caulking lines. Is there a solvant or some other removal techniques which I can use to get rid of this caulking material without damaging the fiberglass finish? Appreciate any ideas.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by Grapehound

I am replacing the old incandescent tailights on our 2014 Rockwood 8282 Signature fifth wheel. People seem to try to pass us on a multi-lane highway even when we are clearly signalling a lane change and -- while some are just unsafe drivers in a hurry -- i worry that when the sun shines on the back of our trailer that it washes out the dull taillight signals.

I am adding bright LED tailights along with a center LED light bar, such as they use on pickup trucks. It has a taillight and brake light function across the whole light bar and flashes bright yellow LED's for turn signalling. Fortunately, I can access all the tailight wires inside the back of the RV by removing the couch across the back.

I am trying to figure out how best to remove the caulking material which covered the top and sides of the old taillight locations. The new LED taillights are slightly smaller so they won't cover these caulking lines. Is there a solvant or some other removal techniques which I can use to get rid of this caulking material without damaging the fiberglass finish? Appreciate any ideas.

Plastic putty knife, WD 40, and some Goo Gone. Strong elbows. You can also just replace the blubs with LEDs from the auto parts store.

[H20loo]

On my recent trip I would come up behind trailers with factory lights and think “how outdated” they were in this world of bright vehicle taillights. Actually dangerous!
So, I tried led bulbs in my trailer . But because there is no reflective backing in the factory lights- I didn’t achieve the desired results.
I bought harbor freight led lights and I am happy with the lights. I still need to remove the caulking. My.future plan is to install additional led strip lights along the sides of my rear window
And, after reading another thread here, reflective strips on my bumper.

[Riverdude]

[QUOTE=!

So, I tried led bulbs in my trailer . But because there is no reflective backing in the factory lights- I didn’t achieve the desired results.

I put aluminum AC duct tape behind the bulbs in the taillight and the reflection off of the aluminum tape sure brightens Them up !










QUOTE]

[Riverdude]

[QUOTE=Riverdude;2068606][QUOTE=!

So, I tried led bulbs in my trailer . But because there is no reflective backing in the factory lights- I didn’t achieve the desired results.

I put aluminum AC duct tape behind the bulbs in the taillight and the reflection off of the aluminum tape sure brightens Them up !

[Riverdude]

I put aluminum AC duct tape behind the lite bulbs, and it sure brighten it up

[babock]

The OEM lights suck...even with LED bulbs.

[extremebike]

I found that a well rounded edge of a sawed off hockey stick worked the best. The edge of the stick needs to be sanded and smooth. I just used it as a scraper with gentle pressure to start. Silicon just rolls up and falls off.

Not subscribed so PM for more info.

[Brendon37]

Originally Posted by Grapehound

I am replacing the old incandescent tailights on our 2014 Rockwood 8282 Signature fifth wheel. People seem to try to pass us on a multi-lane highway even when we are clearly signalling a lane change and -- while some are just unsafe drivers in a hurry -- i worry that when the sun shines on the back of our trailer that it washes out the dull taillight signals.

I am adding bright LED tailights along with a center LED light bar, such as they use on pickup trucks. It has a taillight and brake light function across the whole light bar and flashes bright yellow LED's for turn signalling. Fortunately, I can access all the tailight wires inside the back of the RV by removing the couch across the back.

I am trying to figure out how best to remove the caulking material which covered the top and sides of the old taillight locations. The new LED taillights are slightly smaller so they won't cover these caulking lines. Is there a solvant or some other removal techniques which I can use to get rid of this caulking material without damaging the fiberglass finish? Appreciate any ideas.

I've had good luck with 3M Adhesive Remover. It's paint safe so should be ok for the fiberglass on the camper. Can get it at Auto Zone for sure but probably any parts store.

[Grapehound]

Thank you all for the suggestions!

Riverdude, I have bright, new LED lights made for trailers. These have about 10-12 bright LED bulbs for the red lens. I am not just replacing the incandescent light bulb but the whole light fixture, hence the need to erase the outline of the caulking where the old, dim larger lights were.

I tried putting brighter LED bulbs in my truck tail lights, which has the reflectors inside, but the issue there was that the bulbs drew so little power that my heavy duty turn signal controller did not actuate properly and the signal flashed rapidly due to lack of load from a regular bulb. This happens also when the load diminishes from a burned out tail light.

I don't expect any flashing issues when I get the new trailer lights hooked up. I did have to add a license plate light as my new lights did not have one. I am really looking forward to seeing my new 5' long LED light strip across the whole back of the unit. It should be very bright. I will post a photo when complete. The new LED light strip has a five foot tail light function, five feet of bright brake lights, 2-1/2 feet of bright yellow turn signals, and even a bright white back up light. Not sure I plan to go through the effort to wire up the back-up light, as the trailer harness has no backup light wiring so I'd have to install about 35 feet of single strand wire to the new light strip.

Now I am wrestling with whether I should also remove the bumper mounted spare tire carrier so I can mount the light strip between the tail lights or whether it would be better just to mount the light strip higher on the back of the trailer above the spare tire carrier. This would let people see my tail lights from further back in trffic.

I will post a photo when it's all done.

Larry

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by Grapehound

I am replacing the old incandescent tailights on our 2014 Rockwood 8282 Signature fifth wheel. People seem to try to pass us on a multi-lane highway even when we are clearly signalling a lane change and -- while some are just unsafe drivers in a hurry -- i worry that when the sun shines on the back of our trailer that it washes out the dull taillight signals.

I am adding bright LED tailights along with a center LED light bar, such as they use on pickup trucks. It has a taillight and brake light function across the whole light bar and flashes bright yellow LED's for turn signalling. Fortunately, I can access all the tailight wires inside the back of the RV by removing the couch across the back.

I am trying to figure out how best to remove the caulking material which covered the top and sides of the old taillight locations. The new LED taillights are slightly smaller so they won't cover these caulking lines. Is there a solvant or some other removal techniques which I can use to get rid of this caulking material without damaging the fiberglass finish? Appreciate any ideas.

Most TT/5vers that I'm aware of use the typicial 7-pin connector. On these connectors, the brake and turn signal wiring is the same (one wire for brake/turn signal left, one wire for brake/turn signal right). Therefore, I don't know how you're going to get the yellow LED's to work on their own, unless there's some kind of internal circuit that kills the yellow LED's when both brake/turn signal wires get power. What I suspect you'll have to do is make both red brake and yellow LED's come on together, which may or may not be "legal." If your TV has separate turn signal bulbs, you could tie the yellow LEDs directly into their wiring, but you'd need another connector in addition to the 7-pin. And your TV's BCM may not like the additional current draw.

Good luck.

[Chuck_S]

For night driving 3M DOT reflector tape is a great addition to LED lights at the rear.

[Grapehound]

Thanks Rockford Roo! That chart is very helpful!

I thought of that concern but first of all, the seven pin connector is not fully wired through the trailer. For example the seven pin plug has a backup wire contact but my trailer is not wired with any backup wiring.

At the back end of the trailer we have only four wires for lighting:
1) ground wire,
2) marker light wire,
3) left turn wire and
5) right turn wire.

This light strip -- which is made for typical connections on pickup trucks -- comes wired with a four pin connector and it works properly (i.e., yellow turn signals versus red LED's for brake lights) because it has it's own internal logic circuit.

Therefore we only need a four pin plug to connect it: when one turn signal flashes, the logic sees it's a turn light and flashes bright yellow; when both "turn signal" lights flash together (i.e., brake lights) they appear as bright red.

Chuck, the reflector tape on the bumper is a good idea. My challenge has been to get highly visible turn sgnals on the back of the unit to replace the dull incandescent factory lights so that other drivers don't try to cut me off as I change lanes because they can't see my dim little tail light flashing. (I am giving them credit for not just trying to cut me off, which I am sure some are doing. In some places, like the Cross Bronx Expressway in NY or the whole state of Massachusetts, using your turn signal on an expressway is considered a sign of weakness!)

Would you guys put the light strip between the tailights and remove the spare tire carrier (I'd just carry the spare in the basement) or would you mount the light strip higher, just below the rear window, for better visibility to following traffic? I have lots of wiring options for either mounting.

[rockfordroo]

OK, I thought it MIGHT have an internal circuit.

IMHO - I'd go higher rather than lower.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

Most TT/5vers that I'm aware of use the typicial 7-pin connector. On these connectors, the brake and turn signal wiring is the same (one wire for brake/turn signal left, one wire for brake/turn signal right). Therefore, I don't know how you're going to get the yellow LED's to work on their own, unless there's some kind of internal circuit that kills the yellow LED's when both brake/turn signal wires get power. What I suspect you'll have to do is make both red brake and yellow LED's come on together, which may or may not be "legal." If your TV has separate turn signal bulbs, you could tie the yellow LEDs directly into their wiring, but you'd need another connector in addition to the 7-pin. And your TV's BCM may not like the additional current draw.

Good luck.

I have the same 5-function LED strip on the back of my 2018 Silverado, It seems the yellow sequential turn signals do have a built-in controller to operate them separate from the brake lights and the BCM doesn't seem to notice. I did notice the full length of yellow LED's gives a single flash when the brakes are first applied. I bought the 7-pin to 4-pin adapter harness that goes in the OEM 7-pin harness behind the bumper. That leaves the backup light wire needing connected separately.

[Grapehound]

Yes, this unit has one long strand of white wire for the backup light to be connected separately from the standard four-pin plug.

I succeeded today in replacing the old tail lights with new LED tail lights; now I need to wire up the strip light.

Larry

[Chuck_S]

Brighter turn signals are as simple as bright LEDs and adding a reflector inside the housing as previously mentioned.

Every trailer I've seen uses the same wire and bulb for brakes and turn signals. If the tow vehicle has yellow turn signals there's internal wiring that ensures both circuits come out the rear outlets properly. I'd not risk rewiring this my self as neither the truck nor trailer support this wiring.

Back up lights on the trailer, though, are a simple mod as the center pole on the 7 pin connector is available and my Fords all wire the backup lights to that pole. (Not sure about Brand-X trucks.) The umbilical cord runs to a junction box under the trailer and that wire is available there. Just need one wire to the rear of the trailer where aftermarket fog lights can be mounted and serve as backup lights. Couple hour job.

-- Chuck

[Grapehound]

I will post a photo of the rear end of my fifth wheel once I get this all done. Still wiring the light strip. I was lucky to have a rear living room where I could just slide the couch out from the rear wall (it was not even attached to the walls or floors anywhere).

I was surprised to find out that the turn signals on this light strip are not only bright yellow but sequential, which is pretty cool.

[babock]

I use these. No way I was going to mess around with the original piece of junk the trailer came with.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lig...xoCajAQAvD_BwE

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Grapehound

I tried putting brighter LED bulbs in my truck tail lights, which has the reflectors inside, but the issue there was that the bulbs drew so little power that my heavy duty turn signal controller did not actuate properly and the signal flashed rapidly due to lack of load from a regular bulb. This happens also when the load diminishes from a burned out tail light.

If one is replacing old bulbs with LED's in their Tow Vehicle it's usually required that one add a "load resistor" to the circuit. Most auto parts stores have them on the rack right next to the replacement LED bulbs.


As for the people that pass you when you are clearly signaling, most cases it's not because they can't see the tail/turn signals, they are just your typical impatient driver that doesn't want to follow a big trailer.

I have the same problem with my car which is both equipped with LED tail lights and can easily keep up with traffic. When I turn on my signal for a lane change invariably the vehicle in the next lane speeds up. I've taken to just starting my lane change and turning on the turn signal just before I leave my lane. That cuts the "speed up to close the gap" most inconsiderate drivers feel compelled to do.

If for any reason the old caulk lines don't disappear after scraping, cleaning, etc, another solution is to get a piece of polycarbonate sheet (lexan) and make a bezel for the smaller tail lights. Use something contrasting like black or red, cut slightly larger than old caulk lines, shape corners and chamfer edges. Mount on RV, then mount new tail light on it. Use some Stainless flat-head screws to secure it and rather than using silicone to seal it find some rubber gasket material and cut it to fit between bezel and RV.