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Old 06-12-2017, 09:17 AM   #1
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Low Point Drain upgrade

So, I was tired of the caps on the low point drains on my Grey Wolf. So this weekend I swapped them to ball valves to make it tool free, and A LOT easier. It got me to thinking, my winter project might be to use an arduino to control the valves, so I can drain the water with a push of a button. Anyone else try this yet?
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Old 06-12-2017, 09:35 AM   #2
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I'll stay with the ball valves, thank you. They have done the trick for me. Honestly, I'd never heard of an arduino until, I googled it. And I thought I had too much time on my hands!
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Old 06-12-2017, 09:44 AM   #3
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Basically it's still ball valves, but they are electronically controlled, via 12v. The arduino is just the board that would open and close based upon a push of a button.

I'll also keep the manual ball valve before the electronic ball valve, in case of no power or some failure. I'll still be able to manually drain the system.
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Old 06-12-2017, 09:52 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by AtlCamper View Post
Basically it's still ball valves, but they are electronically controlled, via 12v. The arduino is just the board that would open and close based upon a push of a button.

I'll also keep the manual ball valve before the electronic ball valve, in case of no power or some failure. I'll still be able to manually drain the system.
I'm with jeff64 and think about it; no matter where you put the manual ball valve if there is a failure the failure will be in the closed condition. What good is the manual valve. Really, 2 valves for this application.
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Old 06-12-2017, 10:06 AM   #5
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Ball Drain Valve

I posted back a while some of my upgrades. This was an obvious one to do. FR should do it standard, but ..... To see many of my upgrades (and PDI problems) RV and Travel Trailer Upgrades plus Off-Grid Capability Modifications and PDI

I also have (plan to install soon) a switch to turn pump on and off without going inside RV.
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Old 06-12-2017, 10:20 AM   #6
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I'm with jeff64 and think about it; no matter where you put the manual ball valve if there is a failure the failure will be in the closed condition. What good is the manual valve. Really, 2 valves for this application.
Add a T, one side has manual valve, the other side has electric valve. If electric fails, I can open the manual.
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Old 06-12-2017, 10:21 AM   #7
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I just hate having to crawl under the trailer each time i camp in the winter. Then having the water come down my arm.
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Old 06-12-2017, 10:22 AM   #8
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270S, I'll have to look at this setup, and see if that would work for me.
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Old 06-12-2017, 10:37 AM   #9
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Lots of interesting plumbing. I just put manual ball valves on all the drains. Only use them maybe once a year
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Old 06-12-2017, 12:37 PM   #10
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I just hate having to crawl under the trailer each time i camp in the winter. Then having the water come down my arm.
I used pvc(?) fittings and added a straight piece of pipe to bring it down low enough so that I don't have to crawl under the trailer.
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Old 06-12-2017, 03:36 PM   #11
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I used pvc(?) fittings and added a straight piece of pipe to bring it down low enough so that I don't have to crawl under the trailer.
X2 ~ Exactly what I did to my fresh water tank drain (26RR ~ the drain is directly over the front axle). Will do this to my low point drain lines also. Just bend over and turn the ball valve. Simplicity is often overlooked ~~
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Old 06-12-2017, 06:05 PM   #12
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On the bottom of the low point drain, I put on a 90 degree elbow, hose barb and enough hose to get to the side of the MH. Then I installed a ball valve at the outer edge of the wall. I leave the low point drain open so I can drain the fw tank just by opening the ball valve.
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Old 06-12-2017, 08:35 PM   #13
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I only use the low point drains twice a year, when I sanitize, then when I winterize. It would be an unnecessary expense for me.
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Old 06-13-2017, 11:27 AM   #14
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I'd be afraid to replace the caps on my low point drains with ball valves. I use my class A Georgetown in the Winter and freezing temperatures aren't compatible with exposed valves when you know that the pipe behind them will be filled with water.

My solution was to cut all of the drain lines inside the plumbing basement compartment and install the ball valves there. A little extra heat for the compartment keeps everything in there from freezing.

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Old 08-29-2017, 07:01 PM   #15
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Tried up put these onto the ends of my low point drains but ended up with water spraying everywhere. Put the caps back on for now. If they leaked (which they did) wanted the water under the rv and not on the wiring. Looked at the ball valves but went with something I was more familiar with.

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Old 08-30-2017, 01:09 PM   #16
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My solution was to cut all of the drain lines inside the plumbing basement compartment and install the ball valves there. A little extra heat for the compartment keeps everything in there from freezing.
On our 2016 Chaparral They got it the same way.Nice change from the 2014. Makes much more since to keep them in the heated area of the wet bay.
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