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Old 04-18-2016, 03:14 PM   #21
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Don't see why not, just anyway to attach it to the 2x4 tube without drilling holes in the 2x4 tube.
Except on ours it looks like it's a 2x2 tube
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Old 04-18-2016, 04:54 PM   #22
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Except on ours it looks like it's a 2x2 tube
I agree yours looks to be 2x2, but it will still work.
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Old 04-18-2016, 05:22 PM   #23
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I'm gonna pick up some 16 gauge 6in x 18in rolled steel plate from Lowes tomorrow if I get time, and then cut to size and make two mounting plates.
I think I'm gonna drill holes so that the stabilizers are mounted at a slight angle to make using the jack crank handle easier (otherwise it's a bit awkward to get in behind the wheels).
I'll then paint the plates and install.
Any recommendations on tough paint (both for this and for repainting the hitch head and pin box) ? Primer too ?
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Old 04-18-2016, 05:33 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by leefl View Post
I'm gonna pick up some 16 gauge 6in x 18in rolled steel plate from Lowes tomorrow if I get time, and then cut to size and make two mounting plates.
I think I'm gonna drill holes so that the stabilizers are mounted at a slight angle to make using the jack crank handle easier (otherwise it's a bit awkward to get in behind the wheels).
I'll then paint the plates and install.
Any recommendations on tough paint (both for this and for repainting the hitch head and pin box) ? Primer too ?
I use the cheapest paint Lowes has, $0.98/can. Seems to hold up as good as any of it. Seldom use primer, but it no doubt helps. I usually bead blast everything that will fit in my bead blasting cabinet.
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Old 04-20-2016, 04:55 PM   #25
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Grrrr. I just realized that my cunning plan of using the plate between the tops of the stab jacks and the axle framework won't work
Although the U-bolts fit perfectly around the framework, they won't fit around the stabilizer legs themselves, so I'd either have to make the plate way longer than I'd like (thus making it less secure) to move the bolts far enough from the middle of the stab jacks to not interfere with the legs when retracted, OR I'd have to not retract the legs fully (and I'd then be concerned about them gradually coming down on their own.

I can't mount them at 90 deg to the framework, since that would interfere with the axles.

Back to the original plan of getting a bracket fabricated I guess.
(I suppose I could fabricate one out of the 16 gauge plate steel myself, but since I don't have a box-pan folder, I'd have to just use a vise and a hammer to bend the angles.
I would prefer something a little thicker than 16 gauge (1/16") too. The existing brackets are 1/8"
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Old 04-20-2016, 05:02 PM   #26
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Grrrr. I just realized that my cunning plan of using the plate between the tops of the stab jacks and the axle framework won't work
Although the U-bolts fit perfectly around the framework, they won't fit around the stabilizer legs themselves, so I'd either have to make the plate way longer than I'd like (thus making it less secure) to move the bolts far enough from the middle of the stab jacks to not interfere with the legs when retracted, OR I'd have to not retract the legs fully (and I'd then be concerned about them gradually coming down on their own.

I can't mount them at 90 deg to the framework, since that would interfere with the axles.

Back to the original plan of getting a bracket fabricated I guess.
(I suppose I could fabricate one out of the 16 gauge plate steel myself, but since I don't have a box-pan folder, I'd have to just use a vise and a hammer to bend the angles.
I would prefer something a little thicker than 16 gauge (1/16") too. The existing brackets are 1/8"
Go to Lowes and get some 1/8" steel strap. You can bend it in a vise with a hammer. Form it into a U, have the U welded to the jack and put a thru bolt thru the top and forget the U bolts.
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Old 04-20-2016, 05:48 PM   #27
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Go to Lowes and get some 1/8" steel strap. You can bend it in a vise with a hammer. Form it into a U, have the U welded to the jack and put a thru bolt thru the top and forget the U bolts.
Ooh, I forgot about the steel strap that I used for the sewer storage mod.

I could bend that into a flanged U shape, and just bolt it to the top of the jacks (with the through-bolt still of course). That way I could do without the welding (I need to find a local friend with welding gear I can use)

I think before I used this: -
Shop The Hillman Group 6-ft x 1-3/8-in Plated Steel Slotted Metal Flat Bar at Lowes.com
but it's only just over 1/16" (14 gauge I think)

Something like this: -
Shop The Hillman Group 3-ft x 1-in Hot-RolLED Weldable Steel Slotted Metal Flat Bar at Lowes.com
or this: -
Shop The Hillman Group 3-ft x 2-in Hot-RolLED Weldable Steel Slotted Metal Flat Bar at Lowes.com
would be a lot tougher, but might be tough to bend in a vise with hammer


The stabilizers I have are these: -
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000GASYCA
You can see they have flange brackets, with pre-drilled holes fitted, so I could just use those existing holes for attaching the flanged U brackets made from the above

Dimensions of existing brackets are here: -
http://norcoind.com/bal/products/con...sorsjack.shtml
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