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Old 08-10-2012, 03:32 PM   #521
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Hmm, I dont think I received that part because I dont see it
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Old 08-10-2012, 07:45 PM   #522
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Hmm, I dont think I received that part because I dont see it
I 5 male connector and 5 female connectors so I could mount and wire the lights pretty much any way I choose to, paid about $10 for the connectors from Amazon and got here on day 3. Sucks that you have to make repairs to something new but amazon may be the answer
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Old 08-15-2012, 08:25 AM   #523
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My lights finally arrived today... Hope to have them up tomorrow pm..:>
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Old 08-15-2012, 09:41 AM   #524
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Talking

Installed mine last night. I used a 9 volt charge ftom a shifty sweeper that the DG did not want any more. On the way to the trash, I thought that the charger might work for the lights. So i recycled the charger from the trash man. I installed the light inder the awning and plugged them in. The charger is onle 9 volt but I looked at the lights when it was dark I'm very please with the results. Iwill up load pic soon i hope. First time for up load. I need yo figer out how.
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Old 08-15-2012, 02:21 PM   #525
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I got mine, hopefully have them up tonight. I powered them up on my kitchen table, and they look awesome!
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Old 08-16-2012, 01:58 PM   #526
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A question on cutting the strip; I purchased the 5050 lights from Ebay and I need to cut the length a little, where are the cut points? I see what looks like "fuse links" every 6" or so and was thinking that's where I should cut it but there is nothing in the paper that came with them, anyone already cut theirs?
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Old 08-16-2012, 02:05 PM   #527
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Those little copper links are the cut points.
If you split length in the middle of the the strips all the LEDs in the section will still light.
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Old 08-16-2012, 02:05 PM   #528
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A question on cutting the strip; I purchased the 5050 lights from Ebay and I need to cut the length a little, where are the cut points? I see what looks like "fuse links" every 6" or so and was thinking that's where I should cut it but there is nothing in the paper that came with them, anyone already cut theirs?
That's the cut point. Just make sure they are not powered on when you make the cut. Disconnect them from the power supply before the cut.
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Old 08-16-2012, 02:08 PM   #529
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That's the cut point. Just make sure they are not powered on when you make the cut. Disconnect them from the power supply before the cut.
Excellent advice. I know some things should "go without saying" but most times still need to be said...
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Old 08-16-2012, 02:16 PM   #530
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That's the cut point. Just make sure they are not powered on when you make the cut. Disconnect them from the power supply before the cut.
You da man! Thanks for being so quick. I'm keeping everything covered so to speak and need to cut about 6" or so off the strand. Only thing is with mine, my pass-thru door will need to be open for the remote to work, I kept everything enclosed as much as possible; thanks again
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Old 08-16-2012, 02:18 PM   #531
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Those little copper links are the cut points.
If you split length in the middle of the the strips all the LEDs in the section will still light.
No need to seal it or anything,Just cut and go?
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Old 08-16-2012, 02:23 PM   #532
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Only thing is with mine, my pass-thru door will need to be open for the remote to work, I kept everything enclosed as much as possible; thanks again
If you mounted the controller close to the outside wall, the IR remote "pigtail" should be long enough to fish through a small 3/16 or so hole in the wall. After you push the IR remote sensor through, pack the hole with ProFlex sealant or Marine 3300 sealant for a watertight seal.
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Old 08-16-2012, 03:20 PM   #533
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A question on cutting the strip; I purchased the 5050 lights from Ebay and I need to cut the length a little, where are the cut points? I see what looks like "fuse links" every 6" or so and was thinking that's where I should cut it but there is nothing in the paper that came with them, anyone already cut theirs?
I had run across this link when looking for a splicer for my lights. It gives all kind of info on cutting, connecting, soldering, etc.

http://www.usledsupply.com/LED/files...20Handbook.pdf
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Old 08-16-2012, 03:23 PM   #534
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No need to seal it or anything,Just cut and go?
You could put some sealant if you want, especially if you think it might come in contact with some metal or water. I just folded some of the double sided tape over it. I made a small alum. box for the control box and mounted it under the rail next to the support and caulked it so it wouldn't get wet and ran the ir eye down the side of the trailer.
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Old 08-16-2012, 03:53 PM   #535
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Thanks for all the info guys; installed and ready to go! We leave for Va. Beach tomorrow morning and I'll see how the 2x sided tape holds up during travel, already had to press the lights back on in a few places.
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Old 08-16-2012, 03:59 PM   #536
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Thanks for all the info guys; installed and ready to go! We leave for Va. Beach tomorrow morning and I'll see how the 2x sided tape holds up during travel, already had to press the lights back on in a few places.
The tape you used, is it the one that came with the lights or the outdoor type you buy at Lowes or HD.
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Old 08-16-2012, 04:13 PM   #537
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The tape you used, is it the one that came with the lights or the outdoor type you buy at Lowes or HD.
The type that was already on the lights, guess I be heading' to Lowes....lol
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Old 08-16-2012, 04:42 PM   #538
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The type that was already on the lights, guess I be heading' to Lowes....lol
Herk had good luck with his, mine started falling off after 2 or 3 days sitting in the drive.
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Old 08-18-2012, 06:10 AM   #539
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I finally decided on the 5050's with 30 leds per meter as ea chip has the rgb capability. $23 with 44 key remote, free shipping...oh! and a USA supplier .My hopes are to use 9' on the awning, 4' under the trailer just behind the steps and the rest as an experiment for under cabinet lighting above my table.
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Old 08-18-2012, 06:16 AM   #540
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The LED Handbook has several excellent articles as to how to solder to the LED clippings.
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