My solution to awning lights - Page 40

OldCoot · 03-26-2013, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by herk7769

For those who may not know:

Murphy's Law

What ever can go wrong;
will go wrong;
in a way that will cause maximum damage;
and be impossible to repair.

There are several Corollaries.

As anyone who has lived a reasonably long life will tell you: Murphy was an Optimist. Reality is much worse than that.

Murphy's law - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Agree wholeheartedly Herk. I never thought of him as an optimist, I just thought he was trying to get the best of me and a few times he did. lol

ryand · 03-26-2013, 10:51 PM

After reading tons on this... Has there been anyone who installed with a manual awning and did a perm install by drilling a hole in the side wall and pulling power from somewhere?

QuietTimes · 03-27-2013, 10:37 AM

For those that have the RGB led strips here is a replacement remote that is RF instead of IR.

Wireless RF Touch Panel LED RGB Dimmer Remote Controller for RGB LED Strip Light | eBay

crunchman12001 · 03-27-2013, 08:23 PM

Hi,
Just an update.
I received my LED's today from 5050 SMD IP65 Waterproof RGB 5M 300 LED Strip 24 44 Key IR 12V 5A Power Supply | eBay for $27.28 delivered. (Herks link) It took 15 days from time of order.
I also received the extension cable (plug & play) for the lights from Amazon.com: 2.5M 8.2ft extension cable connect 4pins plug led strip lights RGB5050 3528 link RGB25GM electrical copper wire link connection led lamp: Electronics
The extra cord will be a easy way to run the wire down from the top of the trailer trough the electric awning arm to inside the trailer.
I plan to run a new line off the 12V panel for power and tuck the IR sensor back out the hole like Herk did.
I did originally order the 110V converter but I am going to go with a 12V power option instead and bought this to plug into the controller for my 12V wire. (the led's did come with an optional 12V pigtail that was not pictured in the ad.)
I also bought a set of Blue Waterproof 30CM/15 LED Car Motors Truck Flexible Strip Light DC 12V that I will use for the step lights that I bought here: 4pcs Blue Waterproof 30cm 15 LED Car Motors Truck Flexible Strip Light DC 12V | eBay
and will install a switch with this switch to match the other switches.
I bought the 3m tape, split wire loom and wire to run the lights under the TT/steps.
As soon / If the weather breaks, I will post the install pics.
Lights look cool in the house, be nice to get installed.
crunchman

PS. My led's did not come with a CR2025 battery for the remote.

crunchman12001 · 03-30-2013, 12:53 PM

Hi all,
I ran a 12 Gauge wire (red +) from a empty slot ( 12V DC side of the panel) to one side of my toggle switch. I ran another wire 12 Gauge ( from the other side of the toggle) to the positive side of my LED controller for my awning lights.
I then ran a 12 Gauge white wire from the main ground NEG - on the 12V side to the negative on the controller.
No problem, turns off awning lights with switch or I can use the remote.

Here is the Question.
When I ran the first wire 12V red + to the 1st side of the switch, I pig tailed a 12 Gauge off of that wire before the switch for power to the 1st side of a 2nd switch (new for the step lights)
I then ran a 14 Gauge RED + (ran out of 12 g) ( 2nd side of 2nd switch) back to where I want to have power for my step lights. (that would work off of the 2nd switch)
The short led strips linked in previous post have 1 red and 1 black wire coming off of them.
Would I need to run a white (- neg) wire down to same location for the NEG -?
I would like to put 2 strips per stair location.
Soooo,
Would the red on the new strip lights be Pos + and the Black Neg-?

I am thinking,,, Red + (return power from switch) to red on strip light? ( pigtail 2 sets together (red +) and pigtail (red +) to other stair well and connect the same way?
Would I just connect the white neg - from 12DC panel to the black - on the strip lights and wire like the red +? (pig tailed)
Sorry for the confusion.
crunchman

RodeoGeorge · 03-30-2013, 04:35 PM

In my opinion, you do not need to run a 12- wire all the way from the fuse panel to the LED Strip Pig Tail.

You can pick up the 12- from anywhere on the frame of the RV, or if you have aluminum substructure for the floor you can get it there.

I use a self tapping screw into the aluminum, and attach the black wire with a wire lug. You of course may have to extend the black wire some.

RodeoGeorge

crunchman12001 · 03-30-2013, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RodeoGeorge

In my opinion, you do not need to run a 12- wire all the way from the fuse panel to the LED Strip Pig Tail.

You can pick up the 12- from anywhere on the frame of the RV, or if you have aluminum substructure for the floor you can get it there.

I use a self tapping screw into the aluminum, and attach the black wire with a wire lug. You of course may have to extend the black wire some.

RodeoGeorge

RodeoGeorge,
Thank you for your reply.
Can I get a ground off of the steps? That should be fine right?
I would use the wire lug and self tap screw.
TIA,
crunchman

TURBS · 03-30-2013, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crunchman12001

RodeoGeorge,
Thank you for your reply.
Can I get a ground off of the steps? That should be fine right?
I would use the wire lug and self tap screw.
TIA,
crunchman

Why not ground right to your frame?

crunchman12001 · 03-30-2013, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by f1100turbo

Why not ground right to your frame?

I could do that too. Just asking where / or if it makes a difference.

RodeoGeorge · 03-30-2013, 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crunchman12001

RodeoGeorge,
Thank you for your reply.
Can I get a ground off of the steps? That should be fine right?
I would use the wire lug and self tap screw.
TIA,
crunchman

Grounding to the steps would be "iffy". We don't know how good an electrical connection there is between the step frame and the RV frame.

You can try it, and if the light do not operate, or are erratic, you most likely have a poor ground.

As was just mentioned, best to go to the Frame itself and avoid potential difficulties.

RodeoGeorge

TURBS · 03-30-2013, 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RodeoGeorge

Grounding to the steps would be "iffy". We don't know how good an electrical connection there is between the step frame and the RV frame.

You can try it, and if the light do not operate, or are erratic, you most likely have a poor ground.

As was just mentioned, best to go to the Frame itself and avoid potential difficulties.

RodeoGeorge

Yep!

crunchman12001 · 03-30-2013, 11:17 PM

RodeoGeorge, f1100turbo,
Thank you for the guidance on hooking these lights up. I will hook the ground to the frame of the Trailer. I will get them on tomorrow if it does not rain.
Thanks again,
crunchman

TURBS · 03-30-2013, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crunchman12001

RodeoGeorge, f1100turbo,
Thank you for the guidance on hooking these lights up. I will hook the ground to the frame of the Trailer. I will get them on tomorrow if it does not rain.
Thanks again,
crunchman

Your welcome.

QCCowboy · 03-30-2013, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by f1100turbo

Yep!

12 volt is extremely finicky with ground wires. I agree with grounding to the frame. Make sure that you also sand down any paint/debris/etc. first. Don't just drill in a self-tap screw and expect a proper ground.

crunchman12001 · 03-30-2013, 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by QCCowboy

12 volt is extremely finicky with ground wires. I agree with grounding to the frame. Make sure that you also sand down any paint/debris/etc. first. Don't just drill in a self-tap screw and expect a proper ground.

QCCowboy,
Thanks for the tip, I was just going to use the self tap screw.
I will get down to bare metal for the wire lug to hit it too.
crunchman

RodeoGeorge · 03-31-2013, 01:35 AM

I ordered a "RF" remote controller for the LED Awning Lights. It arrived today, and it was an easy substitute for the 44 Key Controller that I originally installed.

I wanted to have a system where I didn't have to point the Remote at an IR receiver. The jury is still out on how it's operating. It seems to be intermittent at times, especially when I remove the 12V input power and then restore it.

I'll report more after I have played with it some more. It does not have as many bells and whistles as the 44 Key, but enough to suffice, IF it works reliably.

I've ordered a second unit for the rear awning lights, and it will be interesting to see if the second unit exhibits the same bugs.

Here's a link:

Wireless RF Touch Panel LED RGB Dimmer Remote Controller 12V for RGB LED Strip | eBay

RodeoGeorge

tclcyl · 03-31-2013, 06:23 AM

I am a little late to the party, but just placed my order for them as well. Can't wait to try them out when they arrive and on our next camping trip!

**Herk7769** · 03-31-2013, 06:28 AM

Thank you for the tip. I see a transmitter replacement in my future.

I like the idea of being able to shut off the awning light from inside with the remote.
Herk

Quote:

Originally Posted by RodeoGeorge

I ordered a "RF" remote controller for the LED Awning Lights. It arrived today, and it was an easy substitute for the 44 Key Controller that I originally installed.

I wanted to have a system where I didn't have to point the Remote at an IR receiver. The jury is still out on how it's operating. It seems to be intermittent at times, especially when I remove the 12V input power and then restore it.

I'll report more after I have played with it some more. It does not have as many bells and whistles as the 44 Key, but enough to suffice, IF it works reliably.

I've ordered a second unit for the rear awning lights, and it will be interesting to see if the second unit exhibits the same bugs.

Here's a link:

Wireless RF Touch Panel LED RGB Dimmer Remote Controller 12V for RGB LED Strip | eBay

RodeoGeorge

RodeoGeorge · 03-31-2013, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by herk7769

Thank you for the tip. I see a transmitter replacement in my future.

I like the idea of being able to shut off the awning light from inside with the remote.
Herk

Hold off a bit Herk. As I said, I'm not satisfied with the reliability at this point. If the second unit I ordered responds more reliably, then it's just a defective unit and I'll seek replacement.

Second unit is due here on the 4th, so only a few days away.

Hindsight being better, I'm thinking that the metal enclosure may be an issue, as there is not antenna outside the box. I've ordered 3 other models of an RF Remote to test as well, some with plastic case and less expensive.

RodeoGeorge

Stanleyg · 03-31-2013, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ryand

After reading tons on this... Has there been anyone who installed with a manual awning and did a perm install by drilling a hole in the side wall and pulling power from somewhere?

I haven't installed this yet, but looking at your tt, you should be able to get power from you exterior door light. Just mount/stick the lights on the bottom side of the awning with the controller mounted by your door, run power from your outside light, and hide it with this, Wiremold/Legrand 12 ft. Cordmate II Kit, White-C210 at The Home Depot. This way, you will be able to turn it off from inside.

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