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Old 02-21-2014, 10:13 AM   #1641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrogers221 View Post
I bought a 32 ft reel from China off EBAY with mini rf controller and just cut off 11 ft to fit 21 ft awning.

Do you have a link to the eBay site to where you bought it all?
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Old 02-21-2014, 06:13 PM   #1642
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Cool led light strip

Here is the link where I got my lights.
Waterproof Continue 10 Meters 32 8 ft RGB LED Strip Light RF Controller PSU | eBay
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Old 02-21-2014, 06:54 PM   #1643
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80 bucks for that seems pretty steep in my opinion..
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Old 02-28-2014, 05:02 PM   #1644
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Mounting Light Bar.. Need Thoughts..

After having mounted one set of LEDs in the underside of the awning channel using 3M Automotive Trim Tape, and then having to go through all of the trouble to remove them and the tape residue left behind because they failed, I am trying a different approach this time. I purchased two 8' long aluminum light channel sections with clear lenses. The LED's will be mounted in the channel protected from the weather. I want to mount this channel directly on the side of the trailef's aluminum siding just under the awning rail facing out. From the pictures I have attached you can see I have 2 choices on how to mount the rail (channel).. Option 1 (Picture A) would be just to back the aluminum channel with butyl tape, and attach it with sheet metal screws to the siding every 2 ft or so.. Option 2 (Picture B) would be to attach the stainless mounting clips that came with the channel to the trailer siding evey 2 ft or so and then just snap the channel into place. Although the clips seem very rigid, they are of a thin material and am just wondering how they would hold onto the channel with normal road viberation. What would you do? I don't want to have to do this again in the near future and thought several sets of eyes and ideas might avoid any problems I may have overlooked.
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Old 02-28-2014, 05:30 PM   #1645
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Ted, I drilled and countersunk blind flush-mounted rivets every 2 feet or so. I did not use clips for fear of GIP channel falling off the MH when underway.
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Old 02-28-2014, 08:59 PM   #1646
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I'm in the middle of the exact same project. Only difference is I chose the aluminum channel that turns the lights at a 45 degree angle. I have a large disdain for drilling any holes that will eventually leak no matter how well you seal it. As such I've decided to use the super strength molding tape on the channel like you did the the first time. When my lights fail (I'm confident they will) I can simply replace them in the channel. I am also using white lights because I'm writing them to a rocker switch inside.

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Old 03-03-2014, 07:33 PM   #1647
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Adony, so just the lights failed, or did the tape also come off? If only the lights, I would just use the same style of tape again. Not a huge fan of drilling into the side of an RV if I didn't have to. Jerry
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Old 03-04-2014, 04:35 PM   #1648
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Hi there. Love this thread. Read about 70 pages of and countless other random pages from there on.
Ordered some light strips and plan to install once the snow melts.
But here is my question, and I apologize if it's been addressed:
I have a set of 5050 LED with 150 lights per 5M. It came with a 24 button IR remote and controller. The weird thing is, when I press the green button it lights up blue and there are a few other buttons that don't correspond with the color.
I thought maybe something was up with the controller or remote, but when I plugged a 44 button remote and controller into the light strip, it responded the same.
And alternately, when I plugged either controller into a different 300 light LED strip I have both performed perfectly.
Was wondering if anyone experienced this or if there were any suggestions to fix it.
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Old 03-04-2014, 06:06 PM   #1649
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Controller

These controllers are not the hottest thing on the market today. They have all kind of little glitch's, from what you have described to not working at all too only lighting in one mode. At one time there was a re-programing mode someone posted, I have tried it on my 5050 set, did not work, then I took another controller from a 3058 set, now everything if fine.
My 5050 lights are on an awning not attached to the coach but is actually over it. I use the AC/DC converter, so that means they have power on to the transmitter all the time. Went up to the lot last weekend to check on the Sunnybrook and wouldn't you know, the lights were on all by themselves as the controller was inside the coach no where in site of the transmitter, go figure. Turned the lights off with the controller, all is well.
Think if we had a better controller other than the line of sight model, probably would not have the problems.



Quote:
Originally Posted by warno View Post
Hi there. Love this thread. Read about 70 pages of and countless other random pages from there on.
Ordered some light strips and plan to install once the snow melts.
But here is my question, and I apologize if it's been addressed:
I have a set of 5050 LED with 150 lights per 5M. It came with a 24 button IR remote and controller. The weird thing is, when I press the green button it lights up blue and there are a few other buttons that don't correspond with the color.
I thought maybe something was up with the controller or remote, but when I plugged a 44 button remote and controller into the light strip, it responded the same.
And alternately, when I plugged either controller into a different 300 light LED strip I have both performed perfectly.
Was wondering if anyone experienced this or if there were any suggestions to fix it.
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Old 03-04-2014, 06:41 PM   #1650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warno View Post
Hi there. Love this thread. Read about 70 pages of and countless other random pages from there on.
Ordered some light strips and plan to install once the snow melts.
But here is my question, and I apologize if it's been addressed:
I have a set of 5050 LED with 150 lights per 5M. It came with a 24 button IR remote and controller. The weird thing is, when I press the green button it lights up blue and there are a few other buttons that don't correspond with the color.
I thought maybe something was up with the controller or remote, but when I plugged a 44 button remote and controller into the light strip, it responded the same.
And alternately, when I plugged either controller into a different 300 light LED strip I have both performed perfectly.
Was wondering if anyone experienced this or if there were any suggestions to fix it.
Sounds like one of the wires on the light string is mis matched.

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Old 03-04-2014, 06:59 PM   #1651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LKicklight View Post
These controllers are not the hottest thing on the market today. They have all kind of little glitch's, from what you have described to not working at all too only lighting in one mode. At one time there was a re-programing mode someone posted, I have tried it on my 5050 set, did not work, then I took another controller from a 3058 set, now everything if fine.
My 5050 lights are on an awning not attached to the coach but is actually over it. I use the AC/DC converter, so that means they have power on to the transmitter all the time. Went up to the lot last weekend to check on the Sunnybrook and wouldn't you know, the lights were on all by themselves as the controller was inside the coach no where in site of the transmitter, go figure. Turned the lights off with the controller, all is well.
Think if we had a better controller other than the line of sight model, probably would not have the problems.
I love how the lights look on "my" Coachman.
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Old 03-04-2014, 07:11 PM   #1652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LKicklight View Post
These controllers are not the hottest thing on the market today. They have all kind of little glitch's, from what you have described to not working at all too only lighting in one mode. At one time there was a re-programing mode someone posted, I have tried it on my 5050 set, did not work, then I took another controller from a 3058 set, now everything if fine.
My 5050 lights are on an awning not attached to the coach but is actually over it. I use the AC/DC converter, so that means they have power on to the transmitter all the time. Went up to the lot last weekend to check on the Sunnybrook and wouldn't you know, the lights were on all by themselves as the controller was inside the coach no where in site of the transmitter, go figure. Turned the lights off with the controller, all is well.
Think if we had a better controller other than the line of sight model, probably would not have the problems.
Yeah, you get what you pay for and I got these for a steal so really can't complain. Just weird how in this case the controller is fine and it's the lights that seem mixed up.
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Old 03-04-2014, 07:16 PM   #1653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beipers View Post
Sounds like one of the wires on the light string is mis matched.

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That sounds like it's probably it. Easier to just relabel the remote than troubleshoot wiring. Overall I still am really pleased with them.
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Old 03-05-2014, 01:47 PM   #1654
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Another question (I know, I'm full of them):
What can you do, if anything, to protect the 4 pin connector when not in use. I plan to connect my lights via 120v when at the campsite and just tuck the connector into the awning arm when travelling. The 4 pin connector doesn't seem too durable or weather resistant.
I've seen items like thse on ebay:
10mm 2 Holes Waterproof End Cap Cover 5pcs for Flexible LED Strip Light | eBay
that are made to cap led strips if you cut them but thought maybe they could fit on the connector end as well.
Thoughts? Ideas?
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Old 03-05-2014, 06:29 PM   #1655
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at first i had a cap...but i lost it in like a week......then i just had the 4 pin tucked behind the awning arm, which was fine till the little 4 pins fell out (i didnt realize that the pins were a removable part).... i put new pins in, and left those as well, but after a few months they were getting corroded and ugly....


i finally cut the end off, hardwired an extension to my storage bay, and hard wired the controller to the 12v source for my front storage lights so i didnt have to plug in a 120 to 12v converter anymore or worry about it.....i really like them better this way
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Old 03-05-2014, 08:22 PM   #1656
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deeks View Post
80 bucks for that seems pretty steep in my opinion..
I paid 12.00 bucks for my 5 meter waterproof set on EBAY
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Old 03-05-2014, 08:41 PM   #1657
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I paid 12.00 bucks for my 5 meter waterproof set on EBAY
The 80$ was originally referring to 10 METERS (32FT) and a RF CONTROLLER. ....hence the price....I use the 15$ ones from Amazon myself...

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Old 03-13-2014, 07:43 AM   #1658
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Kit: TaoTronics® TT-SL007 Waterproof RGB LED Strip Light Kit (16.4 feet, 300 LEDs, 5050 SMD, 44-key Remote Controller, 72w Power Supply)


Question: Has anyone managed to set up a DYI kit to flash (or fade) red white and blue?

I am pretty sure this kit (above) is non-addressable but it does have a DYI feature; just not sure now flexible that is for some basic programing.



Thanks

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Old 03-13-2014, 08:53 AM   #1659
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Has anyone put (eg. rope light) lights along the bottom edging of their rigs? I just thought low wattage might be cool.
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:13 AM   #1660
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I subscribe to KISS method as much as possible.
We went with blue LEDs.
Total cost about $17 for 2 strings. They just happen to be exactly
the same length as my awning roller. I put one on the underside
of the awning gutter and one on the roller itself.
I had some DIY male/female plugs that are crimp on and they are
industrial strength- silver plated. No corrosion so far.

I don't want a controller to mess with and IMO flashing/fading lights
are over the top. We just want "ambiance"
These are deep blue and actually are on the edge of black light spectrum.
Items that have any tendency to be day glow colors really pop under
the lights!

At Topsail Hill Preserve FL last month we got several positive comments
from folks wanting to know what kind of lights I had.
So far my peel and stick backs are holding. Fingers firmly crossed!

I saw a big 5er with some LEDs and he had strung a power cord from
his outside wall recept to run it.
Seems a bit of a waste to take 120v AC and use a power supply to change it to 12v for the LEDs.
Mine are direct wired to the trailer 12v circuit and we can even use them
when boondocking.
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