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Old 03-01-2021, 01:30 PM   #1
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My Water Pur filtration iced and broke

I knew a freeze was coming and shut it all down but didn't drain the filter carrier. That part held up wonderfully but as the ice.expanded the pvc cap blew its threads and popped the filter cannisters right off.

Normally I would just look for a replacement part but they are OUT OF STOCK everywhere I look.

This caused me to look at specs like filtration and gpm and I have to say it doesn't look good for a $40 filter (kw1, 2.5 gpm, temp range 40 to 165 F).

Anybody out there replumb their water filter? If so, what with?

Water flow that dies at 40F isn't rugged enough for me. I can fix some of that with external insulation, but 2.5 gpm, seriously?
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Old 03-01-2021, 01:48 PM   #2
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A lot of members just by-pass water filter and use and external one. See many threads in link below.

https://www.google.com/search?q=wate...iverforums.com
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Old 03-01-2021, 04:05 PM   #3
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Btw here are pics of the impossible to find part. You can see in the third one that the pvc broke around the screw threads popping off the clear plastic filter housing.

Any ideas where I can find just that piece in the interim? There's absolutely no markings on it.Click image for larger version

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Old 03-01-2021, 06:23 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAChandler View Post
I knew a freeze was coming and shut it all down but didn't drain the filter carrier. That part held up wonderfully but as the ice.expanded the pvc cap blew its threads and popped the filter cannisters right off.

Normally I would just look for a replacement part but they are OUT OF STOCK everywhere I look.

This caused me to look at specs like filtration and gpm and I have to say it doesn't look good for a $40 filter (kw1, 2.5 gpm, temp range 40 to 165 F).

Anybody out there replumb their water filter? If so, what with?

Water flow that dies at 40F isn't rugged enough for me. I can fix some of that with external insulation, but 2.5 gpm, seriously?
That's about average for RV water pumps. I find it more than adequate in my TT for the shower and faucets.

Even in a Stick and Brick house the current codes limit water flow from a faucet or shower heat to less than 2 GPM or less.

Maybe more is allowed when filling a 200 gallon soaking tub or a Hot Tub/Spa.
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Old 03-02-2021, 12:18 PM   #5
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I managed to crack my filter housing (KW5 used in pop-ups and A-frames) by having a metal box slide into it while trailering.

Since both sides of the plumbing are 1/2" threaded connections, I simply replaced the filter temporarily with a piece of hose cut to about the right length attached to 2 female connections. I simply screwed the replacement hose in place of the filter top.

I later bought a new filter and installed it. I keep the hose with the fittings in my toolbox as a quick replacement for the filter.

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Old 03-02-2021, 12:42 PM   #6
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Tons of people replace the whole unit. Just type in 'water filter replacement' in search window and enjoy the thousands of posts on this subject.
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Old 03-02-2021, 12:48 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by JAChandler View Post
Btw here are pics of the impossible to find part. You can see in the third one that the pvc broke around the screw threads popping off the clear plastic filter housing.

Any ideas where I can find just that piece in the interim? There's absolutely no markings on it.
Just bypass it using whatever connections necessary where it originally existed and then use your filter of choice on the OUTSIDE at the hydrant. You'll never need to worry about it during winterization/dewinterization again. (take it inside during the winter or throw it away if using disposables.)
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Old 03-02-2021, 01:08 PM   #8
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Bypass the interior filter... they can make a mess if they fail while hooked up to water and you don't notice for awhile and are often in inaccessible locations in the trailer

many solutions depending on your own abilities
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Old 03-02-2021, 01:32 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by JAChandler View Post
Water flow that dies at 40F isn't rugged enough for me. I can fix some of that with external insulation, but 2.5 gpm, seriously?
Is this a new unit that you haven't camped in before? If you've camped in it before, did you have problems with the flow rate before you read the specs? If not, why does it become a problem now that you know the specs?
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Old 03-02-2021, 02:41 PM   #10
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A lot of members just by-pass water filter and use and external one. See many threads in link below.

https://www.google.com/search?q=wate...iverforums.com
Agree! Forest River’s choice of water filters is terrible. I have bypassed this gem and use an external one. You have a much better choice in filters if you go external.
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Old 03-03-2021, 08:55 AM   #11
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A couple of 1/2" male Pex fittings and a short piece of hose will remove the water filter housing completely.

Then you can use these outside the camper, at the fresh water supply. If you do a search on the efficiency of the different water filters available these filter out more and work better than even the larger canister style filters.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-400...AaAmQJEALw_wcB

We change ours out at the first trip each season.
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Old 03-03-2021, 09:15 AM   #12
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If using these Camco filters you need to run some water through it before hooking up to the trailer/RV. The water will come out black and go right into the water system.
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Old 03-03-2021, 09:18 AM   #13
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If using these Camco filters you need to run some water through it before hooking up to the trailer/RV. The water will come out black and go right into the water system.
The package tells you that. It is necessary whenever you use a filter that has activated charcoal as part of its filter. That activated charcoal is what makes it so effective BTW.

The water filters on both our home reefers do the same thing.
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