Need Inverter Install Help

[compubmw]

So, Installed my 2000w inverter.
DC directly to battery with 4ga cable through existing hole in floor and a 200amp breaker.
I added a new circuit breaker in the AC side of the box and hooked in a cable that plugs in to the AC side of the inverter.
Black to breaker, AC white to bus, green to ground bus.


Now, even with the inverter off, and its breaker off, if it is plugged in, the trailer will pop my house GFCI thing.

Why is it doing this? What am I doing wrong?

Please, this isn't a discussion of how long the batteries will last etc. I got a great deal on the inverter and only intend to use it for small things or maybe a minute or two on the microwave at a time, no long term draw over maybe 300w.

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by compubmw

So, Installed my 2000w inverter.
DC directly to battery with 4ga cable through existing hole in floor and a 200amp breaker.
I added a new circuit breaker in the AC side of the box and hooked in a cable that plugs in to the AC side of the inverter.
Black to breaker, AC white to bus, green to ground bus.


Now, even with the inverter off, and its breaker off, if it is plugged in, the trailer will pop my house GFCI thing.

Why is it doing this? What am I doing wrong?

Please, this isn't a discussion of how long the batteries will last etc. I got a great deal on the inverter and only intend to use it for small things or maybe a minute or two on the microwave at a time, no long term draw over maybe 300w.

Not for positive but I believe since the M/H is a "floating ground" setup, mostly cause the assembly is on rubber tires, the GFCI in you house references ground as a home is grounded. With reference as ground it sees M/H power not properly grounded. Do you have a standard outlet not on a GFCI outlet? My RV at home is on a standard 30 amp breaker, no GFCI.

[compubmw]

Originally Posted by VinceU

Not for positive but I believe since the M/H is a "floating ground" setup, mostly cause the assembly is on rubber tires, the GFCI in you house references ground as a home is grounded. With reference as ground it sees M/H power not properly grounded. Do you have a standard outlet not on a GFCI outlet? My RV at home is on a standard 30 amp breaker, no GFCI.

The outlet is a 15amp standard one with buttons on the front of my house. Since its possibly near water, I had to use a GFCI

[garbonz]

You need a transfer switch to handle the transition not a breaker in the box. Plug wire and inverter into the switch and then into the main breaker.

Otherwise just wire the inverter into a separate outlet or two and plug in when you need it

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by compubmw

I added a new circuit breaker in the AC side of the box and hooked in a cable that plugs in to the AC side of the inverter.
Black to breaker, AC white to bus, green to ground bus.

Trying to understand what you did...

Are you disconnecting (Tripping) the inverter breaker BEFORE you plug into the house power? Back feeding your inverter will destroy it. So I hope this is not what you did.

It is far better to run a separate AC circuit to items you would like to run off the inverter (to keep the load low and not wipe out your battery.

Here is how I did mine. I have a house outlet right next to the inverter powered outlet and swap the surge strip plug between the two to power the entertainment system and the computer/printer.

[compubmw]

Correct I trip the breaker.
The only things in the trailer that would draw and plugged in are the ones I want to use.

[smkettner]

What inverter? Some do not tolerate 12v negative bonded with and 120v neutral or ground.

[compubmw]

Harbor Freight 2000w...runs fine just the thing tripping on shore power.

[smkettner]

Could not find 2000w but both other brands of HF inverters say:

DO NOT INSTALL THIS INVERTER INTO A BUILDING’S ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. This inverter is a vehicular accessory. It is not designed to be safely used in a building’s electrical system and has not been evaluated to meet building wiring codes. Improper application may create a fire or electric shock hazard.

Pretty sure this applies to an RV system. You may need to isolate all connections when using utility power. Best to at least use a transfer switch. This would switch both 120v hot and neutral. If you connected direct to the distribution panel you are not in compliance with RVIA standards or NEC.

[garbonz]

Can you explain the wiring you did again. Did you wire the inverter directly into the power distribution panel? I don't think that would work without a transfer switch... Like I said before

[compubmw]

This is what I did.

12v + > 200amp breaker > Battery
12v - > battery

110 Green > Ground Bus Bar in Circuit Box
110 White > White Bus Bar in Circuit Box
110 Black > Added 15amp Breaker



This is the inverter in question

Should I just put the lines from the inverter on a 110v 20a DPST for the white and black to isolate it when plugged into shore power so I don't have to open the bench and unplug it every time?

[garbonz]

I don't think you can do that in the main box. You have to have switch, transfer box or something to keep the inverter separate from the main power.

[smkettner]

BTW #4 wire ampacity is closer to 160 amps in free air and 136 in a confined space.
Did the instructions really say #4?

You need a DPDT 30a switch. Main cord to one side, inverter on the other, common to the main breaker and buses. Otherwise when the inverter is on the cord prongs will be hot. Switching on the inverter and switching off the main is not to code without a lockout device.

Leviton makes such a switch but I think you are better with a regular RV autotransfer switch.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by smkettner

What inverter? Some do not tolerate 12v negative bonded with and 120v neutral or ground.

Yep, I think this is his problem. Also by powering the panel with the inverter, the on board CONVERTER is also being powered and it will try to charge the battery WITH the battery unless it is disconnected somehow.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by smkettner

BTW #4 wire ampacity is closer to 160 amps in free air and 136 in a confined space.
Did the instructions really say #4?

You need a DPDT 30a switch. Main cord to one side, inverter on the other, common to the main breaker and buses. Otherwise when the inverter is on the cord prongs will be hot. Switching on the inverter and switching off the main is not to code without a lockout device.

Leviton makes such a switch but I think you are better with a regular RV autotransfer switch.

I also agree #4 is fused to high at 200 amps. It should be fused less than the wire rating (150 amps).

[VinceU]

Wondering if Help is putting cart before the horse? Op states he has isolated the new add from existing circuits, so why won't shore power stay engaged? Could be a true ground fault or I've changed a few faulty GFCI in RV and homes.

[garbonz]

You need a DPDT 30a switch. Main cord to one side, inverter on the other, common to the main breaker and buses. Otherwise when the inverter is on the cord prongs will be hot. Switching on the inverter and switching off the main is not to code without a lockout device.

X2, like I said.

[compubmw]

When I use the inverter, I make sure only the breaker I put in for it and the GFCI Outlet breakers are on. Converter, air con, water heater, etc are all off.

[RPAspey]

what you are doing will work...BUT you must use the double pole switch. You cannot have the shore power and inverter tied together at all. This means your shore and inverter - hot AND neutral must be separate. use a double pole, double throw switch. inverter on one set of inputs, shore power on the other set of inputs, and the rv panel on the common.

[compubmw]

Instead of having to remove the 30amp romex from the box, could I just put a DPST inbetween the inverter and the box, that way its interrupted completely?