New Steps at the Rally

[Vern]

Originally Posted by youroo

Plus replace the Rivets with "Stripper bolts,washers,and Lock nuts"! Youroo!!

After I sheared one of the rivets on the OEM steps on our Windjammer, I started buying various types of bolts to make the repair. Everything I have tried eventually bends or shears. The latest combo (which is working pretty good but still eventually bends and shears) is a stainless steel bolt with a washer and lock nut. I carry a supply of parts for the repair now. Until reading your comment, I'd never heard of "stripper bolts". After an online search, I see what they are and you've piqued my interest. I will be looking for these for my future repairs. I assume you've done this with yours. Do you have a particular link to the specific stripper bolts which you are using, so I can see some specs?

[Dano1955]

Originally Posted by Vern

After I sheared one of the rivets on the OEM steps on our Windjammer, I started buying various types of bolts to make the repair. Everything I have tried eventually bends or shears. The latest combo (which is working pretty good but still eventually bends and shears) is a stainless steel bolt with a washer and lock nut. I carry a supply of parts for the repair now. Until reading your comment, I'd never heard of "stripper bolts". After an online search, I see what they are and you've piqued my interest. I will be looking for these for my future repairs. I assume you've done this with yours. Do you have a particular link to the specific stripper bolts which you are using, so I can see some specs?

Also look a Chicago bolts, I've replaced many riveted connections with these and they work great.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Vern

After I sheared one of the rivets on the OEM steps on our Windjammer, I started buying various types of bolts to make the repair. Everything I have tried eventually bends or shears. The latest combo (which is working pretty good but still eventually bends and shears) is a stainless steel bolt with a washer and lock nut. I carry a supply of parts for the repair now. Until reading your comment, I'd never heard of "stripper bolts". After an online search, I see what they are and you've piqued my interest. I will be looking for these for my future repairs. I assume you've done this with yours. Do you have a particular link to the specific stripper bolts which you are using, so I can see some specs?

Forget the stainless bolts, go for a gr 8 with 6 slash marks on the head. You will not shear them off.

[youroo]

Originally Posted by Vern

After I sheared one of the rivets on the OEM steps on our Windjammer, I started buying various types of bolts to make the repair. Everything I have tried eventually bends or shears. The latest combo (which is working pretty good but still eventually bends and shears) is a stainless steel bolt with a washer and lock nut. I carry a supply of parts for the repair now. Until reading your comment, I'd never heard of "stripper bolts". After an online search, I see what they are and you've piqued my interest. I will be looking for these for my future repairs. I assume you've done this with yours. Do you have a particular link to the specific stripper bolts which you are using, so I can see some specs?

Vern this is what I used,you can aquire everything you need from "Fastenal" they are located all over the USA! Socket Shoulder bolt/SKU# 1126314/one package of 10 pcs/size is "5/16" shoulder x 1/2" length x with 1/4 x 20 thread!--32 flat washers / SKU# 33854/ you will need 32 pcs/size is .734 OD X .312 ID /You will need 8 Lock nuts/SKU# 1170860/ 1/4 x 20 SS Ny Lock Nut
Now I removed our steps to drill out the rivets "Vertical" some lay on their side and Drill "Horizontal", place a washer between each segment at Assembly! Youroo!! The "Shoulder/Stripper bolts are Case Hardened for Superior wear Resistance, unlike Threaded Fasteners!

[Vern]

Originally Posted by Dano1955

Also look a Chicago bolts, I've replaced many riveted connections with these and they work great.

Thanks, Dano1955...I have not heard that name, so I searched it. Turns out that the first product I ever used in making the repair while at a campground was a Chicago bolt. I went to a nearby hardware store and looked at the fasteners and liked the idea of what appeared to be a possible replacement for the factory rivets. I can't tell you whether the hardware store had these made from other materials, but the small supply which I bought that day were aluminum. Needless to say, I sheared the replacement off not too long after that, and after a second one met the same fate, I went looking for the stainless steel bolts and lock nuts, thinking they would be less likely to shear. I never even thought to look to see if there was a hardened version (higher grade) of these. I'll have to take a look.

[Vern]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Forget the stainless bolts, go for a gr 8 with 6 slash marks on the head. You will not shear them off.

In seeing your reply, I realized I should have thought to ask you a long time ago. My familiarity with materials and specifications is certainly nothing to write home about. I'll keep that in mind going forward. Thanks!

[Vern]

Originally Posted by youroo

Vern this is what I used,you can aquire everything you need from "Fastenal" they are located all over the USA! Socket Shoulder bolt/SKU# 1126314/one package of 10 pcs/size is "5/16" shoulder x 1/2" length x with 1/4 x 20 thread!--32 flat washers / SKU# 33854/ you will need 32 pcs/size is .734 OD X .312 ID /You will need 8 Lock nuts/SKU# 1170860/ 1/4 x 20 SS Ny Lock Nut
Now I removed our steps to drill out the rivets "Vertical" some lay on their side and Drill "Horizontal", place a washer between each segment at Assembly! Youroo!! The "Shoulder/Stripper bolts are Case Hardened for Superior wear Resistance, unlike Threaded Fasteners!

I appreciate the effort to provide those product references and some clear guidance. I will probably give this a try. Obviously, you must have done all of yours on both sets of steps? In my typical reactionary style, I've just replaced the two or three of these that have broken on me as they break. Carrying replacement parts is about as proactive as I normally get. I should bite the bullet and replace all the rivets just to try and avoid further surprises while traveling.

One question...regarding the washers, are you sure that is the right part number (SKU)? Those are too big for these bolts/nuts, which makes me wonder if maybe you have something else in mind by your comment "between each segment"? I'll have to take a look at the steps and see if there could be something you are talking about within the layers at each joint. The only washers I have employed in my repairs to date were used with the fasteners (under the nuts I used).

[youroo]

Vern,the SKU# is 33857 from Fastenal for the Washers. .734-OD / .312-ID sorry about that! Youroo!! I also added a "Car Jack" under our steps,no more "Diving Board Action"!

[Vern]

Originally Posted by youroo

Vern,the SKU# is 33857 from Fastenal for the Washers. .734-OD / .312-ID sorry about that! Youroo!! I also added a "Car Jack" under our steps,no more "Diving Board Action"!

Definitely will follow your lead to shore up our step rivets going forward. I hear you on the "diving board action"...I've definitely learned to avoid the bottom step on the Windjammer both when carrying open liquids and when not wishing to wake up anyone sleeping in the trailer!

[BandJCarm]

Originally Posted by Vern

Definitely will follow your lead to shore up our step rivets going forward. I hear you on the "diving board action"...I've definitely learned to avoid the bottom step on the Windjammer both when carrying open liquids and when not wishing to wake up anyone sleeping in the trailer!

This is what I used to fix that problem. I use two of them.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Stromberg...&wl13=&veh=sem

[youroo]

Originally Posted by Vern

Definitely will follow your lead to shore up our step rivets going forward. I hear you on the "diving board action"...I've definitely learned to avoid the bottom step on the Windjammer both when carrying open liquids and when not wishing to wake up anyone sleeping in the trailer!

Vern,you can use a "Saturn Car jack" bolt right to bottom of last step,"Self storing" and adjusts from 1-1/2"- 17",and the Best part is "Junk Yard 5.00$ Price" and most are still like Brand New! Youroo!!

[jaygeo1]

I read somewhere that Lippert offers a storage box to fit the old step space. I haven't seen it offered as a product yet. I'm considering the "Solid Step" by Lippert Components. Very similar to the MorRyde steps.

[richp]

Hi jaygeo,

I saw one at the Moryde facility after the Rally -- newly delivered there, and perhaps not the Lippert version. It was basically a black metal box that bolted into the vacant hole from the old steps. It had a locking door that opened downward, much as you would expect. Should be easy to self-install.

Nobody in the shop area knew the price that morning. But my reaction was that unless it was under a hundred bucks, I could do without it.

FWIW.

Rich Phillips