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Old 04-17-2020, 09:39 PM   #21
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You’re correct modaholic it is 5/16. Not sure where I pulled that answer out of. Well actually I do but the answer stinks.
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Old 04-17-2020, 10:47 PM   #22
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Old 04-18-2020, 07:57 AM   #23
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Search UTUBE yesterday about turning Tongue Jack,,, all I found was different guys turning Jack Heads,,, Am I wrong thinking I can turn the hole Jack by removing the 3 bolts screwed in to the Jacks Foot ???
Makes more sense to me !!!

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Old 04-18-2020, 11:16 PM   #24
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Yes, that most certainly will work, but the spacing on the holes is not symmetrical... the jack will only fit in 1 position.



So, if the head on the jack can be rotated, that may be an easier solution. Otherwise, a new hole must be drilled to accommodate the non-symmetrical mounting pattern for the jack to the tongue.
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Old 04-19-2020, 11:22 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by BriaBeck View Post
Yes, that most certainly will work, but the spacing on the holes is not symmetrical... the jack will only fit in 1 position.



So, if the head on the jack can be rotated, that may be an easier solution. Otherwise, a new hole must be drilled to accommodate the non-symmetrical mounting pattern for the jack to the tongue.
Right on Brian, that is what I thought I was asking about,
When I ask for drill Bit & Tap size ???

I will need to check it out soon when I can get one of my Grandsons over !!!
Looks to me like it would be easier to turn it @ the Base ???

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Old 04-19-2020, 02:46 PM   #26
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I think the jack's holes have to conform to the hole spacing on the A-frames that all trailers have, and those holes are not equal distance apart...
Yep, that's what I was talking about. I see no reason why the holes on the A-frames couldn't have been equally spaced, but guess there has to be some engineering explanation for it.
Anyway, took my Brute 4500 lose today to turn 120 degrees but really don't like the idea of the jack head pushing against the propane tank covers. So I turned it back to the original position for the time being.
So if anyone has any ideas of how to turn just the head on the Brute 4500, please let us all know. Happy Camping! Whenever we can!
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Old 04-19-2020, 06:44 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Wolverine 1945 View Post
Right on Brian, that is what I thought I was asking about,
When I ask for drill Bit & Tap size ???

I will need to check it out soon when I can get one of my Grandsons over !!!
Looks to me like it would be easier to turn it @ the Base ???


I don't remember what the size is... but I want to say, my first guess would be, that the bolts are 3/8-16. That would require a "Q" sized drill.

{***EDIT*** I just noticed that Just Mike said up above that the bolts are 5/16, which would require a 5/16-18 tap... I have no idea how I missed that 5/16-18 would need a "J" drill, you could get by with a 9/32 drill if you want to tap the hole, but I would back it up with a nut before you put weight on the jack... just me.}

For some reason though, I can't shake the thought that the tapped holes in the tongue might be metric.... I just can't remember, and I'm about 400 miles away from home sitting in my hotel room. I just used the bolts that came with the jack... and it wouldn't be the first time that I got something made in China with bolts that had inch threads with a metric head...
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Old 04-19-2020, 06:51 PM   #28
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Yep, that's what I was talking about. I see no reason why the holes on the A-frames couldn't have been equally spaced, but guess there has to be some engineering explanation for it.
Anyway, took my Brute 4500 lose today to turn 120 degrees but really don't like the idea of the jack head pushing against the propane tank covers. So I turned it back to the original position for the time being.
So if anyone has any ideas of how to turn just the head on the Brute 4500, please let us all know. Happy Camping! Whenever we can!

I've got the Husky SuperBrute 4500...

If the head can't be turned 90° on the tube, I'm just going to have to drill 3 new holes, because I don't have the room to turn it 120° because of the propane tank location. Or, drill a new hole in the tube itself where the head mounts to the tube. Either is a possibility... I think.




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Old 04-20-2020, 12:42 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Wolverine 1945 View Post
Right on Brian, that is what I thought I was asking about,
When I ask for drill Bit & Tap size ???

I will need to check it out soon when I can get one of my Grandsons over !!!
Looks to me like it would be easier to turn it @ the Base ???


If you only drill one hole in the proper location of the jack base/flange. You get all the holes to line up. You reuse the same 3 bolts that are on your jack. The threaded holes on the tongue are reused. Still no tap required.


I would make the new hole slightly bigger in case you don't get it drilled in exactly the right location. Add a bigger washer if necessary and Poof its done.
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Old 04-20-2020, 09:59 AM   #30
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If you only drill one hole in the proper location of the jack base/flange. You get all the holes to line up. You reuse the same 3 bolts that are on your jack. The threaded holes on the tongue are reused. Still no tap required.


I would make the new hole slightly bigger in case you don't get it drilled in exactly the right location. Add a bigger washer if necessary and Poof its done.
Sounds like the right way to do it, don't wan't to take Head apart !!!
THANKS !!!
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Old 04-23-2020, 09:11 PM   #31
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Longer shank on hitch

I opted just to get an 18” long shank and they provided the clearance I needed to drop the tailgate on my f-150 and clear the factory installed tongue jack on my Roo 233s.

My luck with tongue jacks hasn’t been good though and I am on my third one. Also changed tow vehicle to an expedition. The 18” shank has Enabled all configurations to work.

Sharing this option for those who are less comfortable attempting to rotate tongue jacks, especially of the holes don’t line up.
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Old 04-23-2020, 11:40 PM   #32
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Took Another Tack

My tailgate just missed clearing by a half inch. Find somebody that has a drillpress. Drilled another pin hole in the hitch bar 3/4" further toward the front end of the 2" bar. Works like a charm for the last 6 cross country trips. I had the drillpress, spent $16 at Home Depot on a not bottom line drill bit. It only took 5 minutes. Kept the hole wet with motor oil every 20-30 seconds while drilling. Two inches is a lot of steel but, good bit with plentiful oil and slow speed did the trick. It did take nearly 30 minutes getting that equalizer hitch up on the press table, aligned and blocked up.
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Old 04-24-2020, 03:39 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by U.S.ArmyVeteran View Post
Can not fully open tail gate with trailer hooked up? What a pain in the butt!



Problem fixed.I did not come up with this. Not taking credit here. I saw this in another post a few weeks back. Sorry, do not recall who to give the credit to. But, THANKS!


Finally got around to measuring and it looked like it would work.


Take your Jack and rotate it 120 degrees. Voila! Well almost. For some strange reason the holes are not symmetrical. WHAAAAA?????


I had to drill a new hole for one of the screws. No biggie.


Whoever realized that was definitely using their head. All the times I rested my tailgate on the head and never once thought to rotate it. May not work on all trailers but if it looks like it will work on mine I'll rotate it before I sell it.
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Old 04-24-2020, 11:15 AM   #34
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Has anyone tried the rotating option on a FIC model jack on my 2020 2509S?
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Old 04-24-2020, 05:48 PM   #35
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same question

I have the same jack on 2511 and posted the question in 2511SB forum. Will respond back if I hear anything.
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Old 04-24-2020, 06:11 PM   #36
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Has anyone tried to rotate just the head unit on a Lippert Power Jack Lift model #1817941. Thought I would try that before moving and re-drilling for the base.



I did notice another reference on this site talking about the lift with a removable head. Interesting idea but it seems like that would be a bit of a pain to have to do every time and may make it more prone to theft if it wasn't removed and stored.

Yes holes are drilled just need to be tapped with a 5/16 tap
Just did mine a couple weeks ago
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Old 04-24-2020, 07:09 PM   #37
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This is a great idea and would work for me. So I inquired about if it would work and this was the response: To maintain the warranty you can not reposition the control top. It is designed to operate in the original position and any modifications could void the warranty.
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Old 04-24-2020, 08:14 PM   #38
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It’s two 5/16 bolts if you have a issue remove the rubber plugs screws and turn it back and re install.

Honestly it would take less than a minute and your not taking the power head apart.
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Old 04-25-2020, 07:47 AM   #39
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Wondering if rotating the whole jack is o.k.? Forestriver mentioned the control top.
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Old 04-25-2020, 09:43 AM   #40
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Wondering if rotating the whole jack is o.k.? Forestriver mentioned the control top.
Tried that yesterday, only 2 of the bolts lineup,
Much easier to remove Head and tap 2 holes, with 5/16 / 18 corse Tap !!!
Check UTUBE, we have FIC Jack !!!


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