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Old 02-08-2015, 06:45 PM   #1
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Rear Stabilizer Jacks Switch

Moved the rear stabilizer jacks electric switch from the front battery compartment on our 2014 Silverback 33RL 5th wheel to the rear panel just about the jacks....will be much easier now to watch these jacks extend and retract......from the front compartment one never knew where they were because you couldn't see them.
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Old 02-10-2015, 01:15 PM   #2
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I can't believe the switch wasn't put there from the factory.What were they thinking?Looks good.
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:08 PM   #3
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I believe that is the problem. Rv manufactures design teams and engineers never camp or use their products. Think of all the small things you would change just because it makes sense to us campers. Imagine how good this market could be is a mfg. was a group of campers.

Top that with a dealership who could manage and schedule repairs. Boy then you would not need a sales team. The customers would be lined up at the door.

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Old 02-14-2015, 10:51 AM   #4
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rear stabilizer lack switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by jtownstumpjumper View Post
Moved the rear stabilizer jacks electric switch from the front battery compartment on our 2014 Silverback 33RL 5th wheel to the rear panel just about the jacks....will be much easier now to watch these jacks extend and retract......from the front compartment one never knew where they were because you couldn't see them.
Totally agree a switch should be close to the jacks, but not hot all the time.

I'm going to be installing electric rear jacks on my CC 36CKTS this spring.
There will be a switch near the jacks, but be secured somehow so just anyone walking by cannot operate the jacks.

The reason for doing this comes from an incident at a Wisconsin Dells Campground. The landing gear switch on my 2003 Cardinal was on the left front next to front storage compartment door. This switch was "HOT" all the time. After leaving our campsite and returning sometime later I noticed the front of my 5er was low in the front. While we were gone someone had run our landing gear up. I cured that problem by wiring the switch thru the hook-up light. With the light off the switch was dead.



C.B.
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Old 02-14-2015, 10:54 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by cbvp View Post
Totally agree a switch should be close to the jacks, but not hot all the time.

I'm going to be installing electric rear jacks on my CC 36CKTS this spring.
There will be a switch near the jacks, but be secured somehow so just anyone walking by cannot operate the jacks.

The reason for doing this comes from an incident at a Wisconsin Dells Campground. The landing gear switch on my 2003 Cardinal was on the left front next to front storage compartment door. This switch was "HOT" all the time. After leaving our campsite and returning sometime later I noticed the front of my 5er was low in the front. While we were gone someone had run our landing gear up. I cured that problem by wiring the switch thru the hook-up light. With the light off the switch was dead.





C.B.

After I'm set up, I remove the fuse in the DC panel to prevent anyone operating jacks.
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Old 02-14-2015, 11:07 AM   #6
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The rear stab. on the 8289WS is located where the stabs are so you can see them go down or bring them up. Sometimes you just have to shake your head on some of these designs... It will be alot easier now, nice job. You should send FR a picture of where it belongs.
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Old 02-15-2015, 02:52 PM   #7
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I have a new travel trailer on a 28 foot windjammer, they where explaining to me not to put the Jacks up to high because it would blow the fuse ,well that's confusingly stupid well I did and it blown the fuse. When liking at fuse panel ,it was written on fuse panel 30 amp well there was a 15amp fuse in its place
Isn't the Jacks suppose to shut off automatically. Or do I need to install a reset able fuse????
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Old 02-15-2015, 03:24 PM   #8
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My experience is limited but all the electric jacks I've had, none were automatic....you simply had to learn where to stop them.....electric tongue jacks are bad about blowing fuses.
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Old 02-15-2015, 03:57 PM   #9
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I have a new travel trailer on a 28 foot windjammer, they where explaining to me not to put the Jacks up to high because it would blow the fuse ,well that's confusingly stupid well I did and it blown the fuse. When liking at fuse panel ,it was written on fuse panel 30 amp well there was a 15amp fuse in its place
Isn't the Jacks suppose to shut off automatically. Or do I need to install a reset able fuse????
On my rear stab jack there is no fuse at all. Unless it is resetable, I bought them up to high once the motor shut off then turned back on again by itself. On the landing legs if you bring them up to high it will blow the fuse. After one time that happened to me, I had to almost stand on my head to push that button I put in a 40 amp auto reset in it's place. I swear there is no rime or reason the way they do things. Also Windjammers come off the Rockwood line incase you didn't know. Plus the V Nose units.
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Old 02-17-2015, 04:09 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by gljurczyk View Post
On my rear stab jack there is no fuse at all. Unless it is resetable, I bought them up to high once the motor shut off then turned back on again by itself. On the landing legs if you bring them up to high it will blow the fuse. After one time that happened to me, I had to almost stand on my head to push that button I put in a 40 amp auto reset in it's place. I swear there is no rime or reason the way they do things. Also Windjammers come off the Rockwood line incase you didn't know. Plus the V Nose units.
You might have a auto-reset breaker behind wall where your switch is...I have on my unit.

(picture borrowed from Herk)
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Old 02-17-2015, 04:15 PM   #11
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Strongly suggest putting the jack switches in an enclosed box.
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Old 02-17-2015, 04:17 PM   #12
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Strongly suggest putting the jack switches in an enclosed box.
Wonder where you found that unit?
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Old 02-17-2015, 04:24 PM   #13
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Wonder where you found that unit?
eBay naturally!
Power Stabilizer Jack Switch Hatch Box - White | eBay
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