Remove one stabilizer strut in order to accomodate BAL Lock Arm

[DieselDork]

Greetings all.

I'm attempting to install some BAL Lock-Arm's to the back of my bunkhouse TT. I want to install them side to side, in the same manner that the electric stabilizer legs come down. The problem is that one of the struts that comes off each leg will cause me not to be able to retract the stabilizers completely, which will affect my ground clearance.

In looking everything over, it would appear that I could remove the struts from one side of the stabilizer leg assembly. I feel like the Lock Arm will be serving the same purpose. I suppose that this could introduce front to back sway, which would necessitate another set of the lock bars that would run front to back.

I've attached a pic to help you envision what I'm talking about.

Thoughts? Ideas?

Thanks,
Andy

[DieselDork]

I think I've read enough now to understand that if I install it parallel to the stabilizer leg that I won't be doing myself any good. The lock arm needs to run lengthways instead of crossways.

[bob caldwell]

correct

[OldCoot]

Move the Strong Arm anchor down to the pad itself and leave the stab strut. After looking it over again, I would move the complete Strong Arm assys to the front instead of from the center, in other words it needs to be installed perpendicular to the stab jack.

[DieselDork]

Thanks Bob and OC. I've mounted the strong-arm's lengthways as we've all surmised. That is, I mounted from the jack pad perpendicular to the stabilizer arm. The mount point is up the frame towards the front of the coach. It works pretty well. I'm probably going to buy another set for the front end of the camper. .

[bob caldwell]

When you do, get the 4 bar set.....2 per leg...1 for front to back, the other across, side to middle span of width

[DieselDork]

Hey Bob,

Do you mean set up the front the say way I have the back... PLUS one (on each front side) set up like in the pic in the top post? (i.e. running alongside the stabilizer leg)

Thanks,
Andy

[bob caldwell]

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[bob caldwell]

The ones that go across the trailer, only go to half way across to a centered bracket

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[myredracer]

What you need is Lippert's adapter kit # 314597. These have to be used in order to get the needed clearance. Even then, it may be a little tight. The BAL instructions don't mention this and I couldn't figure it out at first.

The other pics show how I installed our Lock Arms (2 only at rear). I mounted the upper brackets to the bumper as there was really nowhere else. Has the benefit though of providing some fore/aft reduction in trailer movement. I found that if you mount the bottom of the Lock Arms to the jack pad, you get a bit too much movement so I mounted them to the Lippert foot pad. While doing all this, I bolted on some 8 x 8 x 3/4" HDPE for permanent foot pads. After I mounted the upper brackets to the bumper I discovered that the inner and outer strut tubes weren't long enough and they would separate. Solved that by welding in a 10" section of 1" tubing.

Movement in the rear of our TT is substantially reduced. I would add a pair to the front but they would be well back from the front cap and hard to reach without crawling on the ground.

FWIW, I replaced the nuts & bolts in the lower part of the Lippert stab. arms with stainless steel because they were significantly corroded after just one year of use. Got exposed to a lot of road salt from being delivered in the winter.

[DieselDork]

Awesome info. Thank you all for the info and pics!

[Dwilcox]

X2^^^^^