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Old 06-21-2024, 04:10 PM   #1
2010 Georgetown
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Back in Dallas
Posts: 116
replaced level controller

The leveling controller on my Georgetown failed. It is $600 to replace it, and I wanted to save money. I had also read a lot of comments on failed controllers, so did not want to replace something that has a history of failing.

I DID LOOSE SOME SAFTETY INTERLOCKS. I do not have the emergency break or in park interlocks.

Basically I built a plastic panel with a surface mount fuse, on off switch, 4 momentary contacts for the legs and a direction switch.

I put in the surface mount fuse to make it easier to check and replace, no more pulling the steps and opening a box to replace a fuse. It usually goes if you are running the hydraulic motor on a low battery. Current is volts times resistance. The resistance stays the same, so lower volts is higher current.

Off of each of the switches for the legs are 2 heavy diodes to handle the current of the motor and solenoid.

One set of diodes are connected together for running the motor and direction switch.

Note I have a unidirectional motor so my wiring is different than one that reverses the motor to change the direction of the leg.

For my unidirectional motor I have to control 2 additional valves in addition to the valve for the leg. One is the Directional valve. On my unit this was a white wire and was the inside rear valve. If this is powered the leg extends

The second was a relief valve. It has a metal piece sticking out that is the manual override for operating a drill. If you power this one the leg retracts.

The 4 solenoids for the legs are wired to new wires from the second diode on each switch. This goes to the valve for each leg.

The diodes are one way valves. They allow the 4 switches to feed a common wire to the motor and directional switch. If you did not have the diode you would open all of the valves.

I guess I could have done with one diode, and wired the leg solenoid from the top of the diode. But when I started this having two diodes made the wiring simpler.

I did end up using a predrilled pc board to wire the diodes and switches. It made it easier to keep things neat. After I was done I covered the board in a dip it plastic to seal everything. The board was going into a plastic piece so it was safe but I liked having all of the exposed connections covered.

I ran the wires inside the plastic arm rest area out the side and down the floor. Outside I ran then through some old hose to protect them. I used the hollow cross bar to run them across the RV, Once inside the battery area I was able to splice into the wires for the switches. I also ran a separate power and ground wire. The ground had pig tales for each valve. 6 in total. I spliced into the direction valve and the relief valve. But I cut the connectors for each of the valves for each leg and wired the power and ground directly. I used a waterproof heat shrink with an adhesive on all connections and soldered each one.

I could add the saft=ety interlocks with some and gates, but I needed to get it working, When it failed I had the legs extended. I tried the manual retract procedure, but when I ran the pump in reverse, the nut came loose. I ended up opening the quick disconnect that they use to flush it and put a long pry bar under the legs to retract them.
I added a cengerig level to the switch. If the rv is not level I will add washers under the mounting screws to relevel the control pannel.

Ted Wilson
Back in Dallas Texas
2010 Georgetown 330TS
wilsonintexas is offline   Reply With Quote


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