Residential Light Switch

[MOD Guy]

The bathroom light switch was getting worn out, so I decided to replace it with one that looked better.

Original switch


Removed and new wall box cut line drawn


New hole cut with a utility knife


New box installed


New switch!

[KenHwy61]

Looks very nice! But now you have to do all the rest so they match

[whitmw]

Very nice upgrade

[MOD Guy]

Originally Posted by KenHwy61

Looks very nice! But now you have to do all the rest so they match

Thanks! Our little camper only has one other wall mounted light switch (for the porch light). That one will be a bit more work since it is in the side of a cabinet with a 1/2" thick plywood side wall, not paneling. I do like things to match, so it might be a good winter project!

[donanddona]

Nice, good to know theirs room for the blue remodel box.

[davel1971]

Originally Posted by donanddona

Nice, good to know theirs room for the blue remodel box.

don't count on that room everywhere. Especially in exterior walls.

[DTingle]

Looks great and doesn't look like it was that much work.

[rockfordroo]

Nice, good to know theirs room for the blue remodel box.

Note that it's a "shallow" box.

[MagnoliaTom]

Originally Posted by MOD Guy

The bathroom light switch was getting worn out, so I decided to replace it with one that looked better.



Original switch





Removed and new wall box cut line drawn





New hole cut with a utility knife





New box installed





New switch!

Great job. Is that just a regular decora rocker switch? I didn't know those worked on 12v. How did you wire it?


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[Helmsey]

Hmm, looks fantastic. Another thing to put on the "to do" list for the camper.

[rockfordroo]

Is that just a regular decora rocker switch? I didn't know those worked on 12v. How did you wire it?

Any switch that can handle 120VAC can easily handle 12VDC.

[Swift 2]

Realy a nice job. It adds a lot of class.

[MagnoliaTom]

Here's mine. Thank you modguy

before

after



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[M&K Hoffman]

I would guess that switch is marked "AC only". A commonly applied "rule of thumb" is that switch contacts, relay contacts, contactor contacts and small circuit breaker contacts, which are marked "AC only" can in fact be used on DC but only at about 10% of the rated voltage. So yes, I would say that switch will function fine. DC switches use a snap contact that breaks faster as DC is much harder to break than AC. AC voltage potential hits zero 120 times per second. DC goes to peak and stays there.

It should also be recognized that this is only a "rule of thumb" and that such use may well violate the NEC or other codes and regulations.

[techntrek]

Originally Posted by MEHoffman

I would guess that switch is marked "AC only". A commonly applied "rule of thumb" is that switch contacts, relay contacts, contactor contacts and small circuit breaker contacts, which are marked "AC only" can in fact be used on DC but only at about 10% of the rated voltage. So yes, I would say that switch will function fine. DC switches use a snap contact that breaks faster as DC is much harder to break than AC. AC voltage potential hits zero 120 times per second. DC goes to peak and stays there.

It should also be recognized that this is only a "rule of thumb" and that such use may well violate the NEC or other codes and regulations.

+1

To put that another way - as you open the switch the current arcs across the contacts, and since AC essentially turns off 120 times per second it is very easy to design a cheap switch that breaks that arc since the electricity itself is helping. Since DC stays on constantly, the switch must be much more robust to break that arc, and at high amperage you could end up with an AC switch that is fully open/off but there is still an arc inside (and whatever you are powering is still on).

That arc will quickly set the switch on fire... then your camper.

In this case that switch is only powering a few lights so it should be ok. If you tried to use it as a master disconnect and all lights were on - maybe 30-35 amps total, you would end up with a meltdown.

[MOD Guy]

Originally Posted by techntrek

+1

To put that another way - as you open the switch the current arcs across the contacts, and since AC essentially turns off 120 times per second it is very easy to design a cheap switch that breaks that arc since the electricity itself is helping. Since DC stays on constantly, the switch must be much more robust to break that arc, and at high amperage you could end up with an AC switch that is fully open/off but there is still an arc inside (and whatever you are powering is still on).

That arc will quickly set the switch on fire... then your camper.

In this case that switch is only powering a few lights so it should be ok. If you tried to use it as a master disconnect and all lights were on - maybe 30-35 amps total, you would end up with a meltdown.

That's good info to know. Thank you, I would not have thought of that. This switch only runs one fixture with two bulbs. I will do some observing to see if there is a heat issue with the switch.