Rockwood Mini Lite Booth Table Issue

[Dennis878]

Does anyone have a fix for the booth table to stop it from rocking? It’s free standing and sets on the carpet of the slide floor. The table collapses so it can be use to make a bed area. The problem is all the hinge points are so loose you can’t get it to stop rocking. I’ve had my morning tea in my lap several times when the wife pushes down on the other side of the table.

I was thinking of a collapsible pedestal table with the same table top. I don’t know what material is under the carpet which is on top of the slide floor. Any suggestions? Thanks

[JayArras]

There are many discussions about this issue on the forum if you do a search. Your solution of a collapsible pedistal is about the best I've seen, but I think you'll need two to make it absolutely stable. I've seen them on boat accessories sites for about $80 each. Pricey, but it will solve the problem elegantly.

[Dennis878]

Thanks Jayarras I’ve done the search thing but didn't come up with anything. Regardless I’ve found that the floor is a wood product but if I use any fasteners to secure anything they would come in contact with a rubber strip that runs horizontally across the slide out. So that won’t work. Screw and glue is an opinion but not sure how secure it would be. Maybe just stuck with this for now. This is my first trailer and I’m learning a lot. The next biggest issue is mounting anything to the rear of the trailer. That’s not happening either. This is a big learning curve I didn’t even consider when I purchased. Next one will be different.

[gastan]

What model Mini Lite? Is it a dinette with that awful free standing table or a completely free standing table & chairs?

Mine was a dinette with a free standing table with that awful collapsible metal base. I tossed it very early in my TT's life. I added the old school tube with floor and table base. What I did was a bit more involved than I will explain here (I also made a box with drawers to mount under the table top), and the sequence of assembly isn't exact, but basically - -
1. I cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to fit between the dinette seats
2. covered the plywood with 12" sq. peel & stick self-stick floor tiles. I got lucky and Home Depot had some that was a close match to the vinyl that was in the trailer. Most don't notice it unless I point it out.
3. attached a metal stair edge to the exposed side of the plywood.
4. attached the post base to the plywood. I counter-sunk the heads in the underside of the plywood so everything was flush
5. attached the table base to the underside of the table
6. made some quick release attachments that hold the table to the trailer wall

Everything except the wall mounts are removable so it could go (almost) back to OEM very quickly if desired/needed. And with the quick release's, I can still lower it to make into a bed if needed, but that doesn't happen often.

It is rock solid with no wiggle at all. None. Nada. Zip. If the table is moving it means the trailer is moving.

[Dennis878]

Gastan mine is pretty much like yours. The bench seats are fixed my seats are u shaped and the table collapsible. Your fix is ingenious and something I could do. I just need to remove the carpeting. The trailer is so new is just hate modifying things to that extent.

How did you secure the 3/4 plywood to the trailer floor? Is that the strips that are along the seats near the bottom? Thanks for the details, impressive!

[gastan]

I am not sure, with a u-shaped dinette, that the old-school tube style I used would be stable enough. Even with two. Without being able to attach to the wall, I think it would still be wobbly. It would cost more but in your case I think one of the adjustable pedestals would be better. Much stouter and I think, not sure, they are one piece - - meaning the leg/pedestal does not separate from the bases. Spendy though. Here's one:
https://www.campingworld.com/springf...0576_ARCS.html
If you did something like this, you could probably just lay it over the existing carpet. All it would do is crush the pile some. If you did want to remove the carpet in the slide maybe you could re-use it on the plywood. Or save it in case you ever want to undo this and find something close at Home Depot or Lowe's to use instead.

My plywood is not attached to the trailer floor at all. Refer to the diagram. I glued 1x2 to the inside of the dinette seat box and then screwed thru the box plywood facing and aluminum framing into the 1x2. I glued and screwed the chamfered trim piece to the plywood. When it was placed into position, I screwed thru the chamfer trim into the 1x2 backing inside the dinette seat box. If I remember right, 4 screws per side. No holes in the floor at all and it doesn't move even when traveling - - and I hate to admit I've hit some pretty big bumps.

[Dennis878]

Yes the wall attachment is the key to your fix but you set me on a path I can work with. I’ll update when I decide what to do. Thank you for all the input!

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Dennis878

Yes the wall attachment is the key to your fix but you set me on a path I can work with. I’ll update when I decide what to do. Thank you for all the input!

Gastan,

Thanks. Your discussion triggered an answer for me. Ours is a similar problem in a different situation. We also have the lean-on-the-table-and-tilt-your-partner problem.

We have a table with two pedestals. The pedestals are rock-solid at the base but sloppy in the sockets under the table. The key was your comment about attaching the end of the table to the wall.

I have some extra of these sash window locks. I have to look at the trailer but I am pretty sure I can mount a pair of these, with the turning parts on the underside of the table and the stationary parts either on the wall or to the window frame.

Thank you for the inspiration.

[Jack350]

Had the same issue with my last rv. Installed a pedestal in the slide out. Check out this thread.
Need Kitchen table ideas - Forest River Forums
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...as-100359.html

I put pictures of my install in the thread.

[Joe F]

I added two Adjustable Flush Mount Brackets (Rocklers terms) to the wall end of my table top after I added a cleat to the edge of my table top. The female side is mounted to the wall with anchors. The male side is mounted to the table edge. The mounts interlock giving a nice secure solution.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Joe F

I added two Adjustable Flush Mount Brackets (Rocklers terms) to the wall end of my table top after I added a cleat to the edge of my table top. The female side is mounted to the wall with anchors. The male side is mounted to the table edge. The mounts interlock giving a nice secure solution.

Those would work nicely. I found them here a little cheaper than Rockler and with free shipping. I hate to order from Rockler because of the killer shipping charges. I have to check out the wall situation before deciding what to use since each of the two approaches has a different wall footprint (two screws versus four). I can't remember if the table top lines up with the wall, the window frame, or the window itself. (If the latter, it's game over.)

[Jay2504]

I got so mad at our wobbly table for the U shaped dinette that I drilled out every single one of those “riveted” pivot points and replaced them with 5/16 bolts and lock nuts. Table is 1000% better now, but I have to loosen each bolt about 3/4 of a turn to get the table to collapse if we had enough overnight guests. Luckily that wasn’t often, maybe 2times a year. Jay

[LenB8]

Hello,

First post, and I apologize if I'm not doing this quite right.
Just took delivery of a 2021 Rockwood Mini Lite 2205S.
The table wobble issue is already apparent.

If I mount a couple of the Adjustable Flush Mount brackets described above on the outside wall, how long should the screws be so I don't puncture the wall?

Thanks,

Len