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Old 08-10-2016, 11:39 PM   #21
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I had the same problem with my Dodge, so I bought a new ball mount with a 4" longer stinger. now my TT sets back another 4' from the receiver and I have plenty of Clearance.
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Old 08-11-2016, 05:31 AM   #22
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Careful! You may be able to get the tailgate down when the TV and rv are in a straight configuration , BUT, be sure it clears when you make a turn.
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Old 08-11-2016, 08:17 AM   #23
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Thanks to all for your inputs. I don't see an advantage, in my case, for the Jack-e-up...my installed electric nose jack works great. My reason for bringing up this matter was just to solicit inputs regarding any possible unseen problems if I drill a new hole in the foot-plate of my electric jack so that all three mounting bolts will match the holes in the tongue, thusl allowing me to simply rotate the jack 120 degrees, thus positioning the alignment of the double-barrels to the side so my tailgate can lower all the way. I'm planning to give this a shot.
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Old 08-11-2016, 06:30 PM   #24
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Here is a link to the Ultra Fab 3500 lb. Electric Tongue Jack, designed with a rotatable head.


Ultra-Fab Products, Inc.| - Ultra 3502 Electric Tongue Jack
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Old 08-11-2016, 11:16 PM   #25
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I had the same problem with my Dodge, so I bought a new ball mount with a 4" longer stinger. now my TT sets back another 4' from the receiver and I have plenty of Clearance.
Great idea, was having the same issue and hadn't even thought about that, just ordered one myself.
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Old 08-12-2016, 12:48 AM   #26
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[QUOTE=Cadiz Couple; .... solicit inputs regarding any possible unseen problems if I drill a new hole in the foot-plate of my electric jack so that all three mounting bolts will match the holes in the tongue, ..... [/QUOTE]

I choose to drill a hole in the A-plate. Larry G.
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Old 08-23-2016, 07:39 PM   #27
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Here is my solution to rotating my power tongue jack so I can open my tailgate. This is a 1/2" steel plate with counter bored/ thru holes and then 3/8-16 threaded holes at 90 degrees. I had my brother make this for me, now I just need to take it back off and get some paint on it.
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Old 08-23-2016, 08:59 PM   #28
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Thanks for the new responses. I'll keep all of the various solutions in mind when I tackle fixing this problem again. I have an 8 inch extension that fits between my truck receptile and the rod the ball is mounted on that will work to let me lower my tailgate. I used this with my previous tiny Casita trailer but I don't know what kind of problems I might have trying to use it on my big heavy Rockwood 8310. Anyone that is interested can buy them from any trailer supply. So I'm going to try to modify my jack base rather than use the extension. When I rotated my jack sideways, two of the three holes matched up so
My easiest solution seems to be to simply drill a third hole in the jack base that lines up with the threaded third hole in the tongue. Retired Navy pilot drivimg Tundra with tow pkg and 4.3 rear end.
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Old 08-27-2016, 09:06 PM   #29
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Just a thought.

Maybe turn the jack 90 degrees and drill three new holes.
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Old 10-23-2016, 02:53 PM   #30
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I just rotated mine jack 90 degrees. Had to tap out two holes (that were already drilled but not taped) in order to replace the two bolts on the head of the jack, but otherwise was pretty easy. Don't know if it gave me enough room to put down my tailgate completely, but at least the tailgate won't be resting on the switches (when the switches face forward). Besides, it will be facing the side that I normally work from when connecting or disconnecting.
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Old 10-23-2016, 07:01 PM   #31
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Thanks again for all of the inputs. It sounds like we all have the same problem---makes me wonder why the double-barrel of the jack was designed to face forward rather than to the side, in the first place. In the Navy we always tried out new new things before putting them into service---I guess Forest River just isn't that advanced.
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Old 10-23-2016, 07:09 PM   #32
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Thanks again for all of the inputs. It sounds like we all have the same problem---makes me wonder why the double-barrel of the jack was designed to face forward rather than to the side, in the first place. In the Navy we always tried out new new things before putting them into service---I guess Forest River just isn't that advanced.
Maybe because the controls are on the front and not all tt are pulled with pickups. Forest River doesn't mfg the jacks. Maybe you should look at all the power jacks before making snide remarks about Forest River.
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Old 11-19-2016, 02:05 AM   #33
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I went with the Jack e up and swapped the propane tank with the battery. Barn doors and swing outs open with no problem now.
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Old 11-19-2016, 02:09 AM   #34
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i went with the jack e up and swapped the propane tank with the battery. Barn doors and swing outs open with no problem now.
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Old 11-19-2016, 07:16 AM   #35
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I went with the Jack e up and swapped the propane tank with the battery. Barn doors and swing outs open with no problem now.
That is a neat product. Where do you store the jack when not in use? Does it come with a jack storage mounting bracket or do you just keep it in the trailer?
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Old 11-19-2016, 10:16 AM   #36
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That is a neat product. Where do you store the jack when not in use? Does it come with a jack storage mounting bracket or do you just keep it in the trailer?
It rides in with the leveling blocks and such. My original set up used the trailer as a ground so my only mod in terms of that was adding a ground that I could quick disconnect along with the power.
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Old 11-25-2016, 10:48 PM   #37
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That is a neat product. Where do you store the jack when not in use? Does it come with a jack storage mounting bracket or do you just keep it in the trailer?
the video on their website(link below) shows two new items for holding the Jack-E-Up when traveling, the Jack-E-Hand and Jack-E-Station, ..... those were not available when I bought mine, and although they do serve a purpose and might be nice to have, I've been laying mine in the truck bed among the other camping stuff for almost 3 yrs and don't see the need for either one, ......

Jack-E-Up
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