RVLock Class C

[Dp26]

2016 Sunseeker 2250. The RVLock v4 did not fit for me. The inner paddle handle did not clear the screen door. I tried spacing the lock far enough (using the stock installed spacers, and other parts) but then the cutout showed on the interior side. The gasket area on the outer part did not cover the outer cutout. (Would have solved by making own gasket.)

The outer part was slightly bigger than the stock piece, which would have made it look nice, covering the sticker areas instead of leaving gaps.

Also, the inner red unlock knobs are PLASTIC, one was broken during shipping, and if broken that easily, could break off in an emergency. (Was going to use existing metal knobs if they fit, never tried them.)

No installation instructions in box, they are online only it appears.

Used RVLock online email system to ask for a new knob, then ask for return instructions (no return instructions are on site or in box). No reply after waiting 3 business days. Called, and was given return address. Credit will be issued if return is in saleable condition, not including the broken knob.

Guess I will try the Bauer piece next, if their measurements appear to work. Really want a push code lock... The Bauer piece has only 4 "real" buttons (each works for two "numbers") and appears to only allow a 4 number code, so there are only 256 actual combinations. I can get past that, since the random jerk who might try random codes will not know that, and someone that does have the knowledge is going to get in anyway.

[Michael4017]

Rv lock v4 worked for my camper-actually just installed it today. I did have to file the original hole to accommodate the new lock. Works great and mine came with everything needed for installation. I found that using their Facebook messaging they usually reply within an hour!


'16 Cherokee 274DBH
'16 F150 XLT Crew 3.5eco

[BruinsFan3171]

I had the same issue with the door posts and overall quality, screen door hit the door handle inside so door wouldn't close. They tried to get me to bend the hinges and/or cut into my screen door. Not sure why they ship products before confirming what units they fit. Shipped in a US mail envelope and showed up with bent screws and scratched up. I would not advocate "trial and error" with their "new" Class C product. Never got a response for return so disputed on my credit card.

[Dp26]

The more I thought about it, the more I disliked the plastic unlock levers. Ordered the Bauer. The technical drawings make it appear the inner paddle is slimmer, so it could fit. I do not blame RVLock, other than they should have technical drawings available. I bet the manufacturers use whatever they have in stock, lowest bidder, and when a better deal comes along, they switch. No matter when in a model year, or across models.

I am fairly anal about these things, as I am working front to back inspecting, fixing, and making sure I like what I see on the new coach. I used to be in the boat business a few decades ago, so none of this is new to me... We used to order bare hulls and fit them for customers, along with factory finished.

For me, the issue is having a DD who cannot physically manage a key lock, but who can easily handle push button locks. I really "need" to find a push button solution, other than giving her the cab fob and climbing through the cab.

[Dp26]

No go for the bauer either. The alignment pins are too long. Shimming the lock to make the pins work exposed the old hole.

I give up. Unusual for me, as an umpire, but in this case, two strikes of trial and error and return ahipping costs, and the aftermarket locks with keypad are out.

There are some simple fixes, such as adding a couple of plastic pieces to serve as gasket and hole/decal cover, and a way to length adjust the alignment pins, and orient the inner pull handle towards the opening and the bauer would have worked.