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02-16-2016, 08:59 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: IL
Posts: 1,295
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Solar installation on 2014 Silverback 33RL
Hi,
For anyone who has installed roof panels on this year and model, how did you run the wire from the roof to the batteries?
The refer in the slide eliminates one method, and the black tank vent seems to run in an inaccessible chase between the kitchen and shower.
Thanks.
Rich Phillips
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02-16-2016, 09:59 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Central New York
Posts: 1,165
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Not the same model, but I was able to access the grey tank vent from underneath on my trailer. There was about 6" of the pipe exposed between the floor of the trailer and the top of the tank. Mine doesn't have an enclosed underbelly, so getting to it was easier than if I had to deal with the enclosed underbelly.
With the fridge in the slide, I like the idea of using the vent stack if possible better than any other option, but I have pictures of where people where people successfully drilled through the roof into a wardrobe or closet and ran the wires through there.
__________________
2022 Columbus 379MBC (Previous 2013 Rockwood Roo 23 IKSS)
2023 F-350 (Previous 2017 F250, 2005 F-150)
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02-16-2016, 10:31 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Englewood FL
Posts: 2,797
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I have an entirely different rig, but the best method is to run from the roof through the wardrobe and down through the floor. You need to drill to miss any roof trusses but I think you will find that there should be an extra layer of plywood immediately over the wardrobe so that it can be attached to the roof. My design is to drill just immediately behind the side jamb of a door panel, that way the conduit is totally hidden from view even with the doors open. 1/2" or 3/4" conduit would run from the roof to the floor. The conduit should stick up 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the roof and is sealed where it penetrates the roof. A standard PVC junction box with a clearance hole for the conduit is then cemented to the roof over the conduit and multiple cable glands are installed in the box to accept the panel wiring. Depending on your installation, you can put terminal blocks in the box to allow multiple 10 AWG panel feeds to connect to a larger cable in the conduit. If you are only using 1 or 2 panels you can fit 4 10 AWG PV cables in a 3/4" PVC conduit and connect them together in the basement at the solar controller. If you want future upgradeability, you can run 8 AWG from the box to the basement and use a terminal block in the roof box.
The only issue is regards to roof truss locations and you should ask FR for a truss layout for your TT so that you can avoid any potential problems.
__________________
2015 335DS
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04-17-2016, 09:15 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: IL
Posts: 1,295
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Hi,
Thanks KMP and Scott.
Anyone else -- particularly anyone with a 2014 Silverback 33RL with the corner shower -- done a solar installation and can share how they got the wiring down?
Thanks.
Rich Phillips
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04-24-2016, 09:49 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 129
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This maybe a bit late for you but I just finished installing solar on my 2015 33RL. I was able to run it down along side my vent stack without drilling any new holes in roof. This vent runs near electrical panel. If you remove the cabinet above the electrical panel (4 screws) and gentle lift the wall panel board you can guide the solar wire through bottom hole into the bay behind the elec panel. Easy from there to the battery compartment.
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04-24-2016, 10:08 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: IL
Posts: 1,295
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Hi Doug,
Thanks -- that's exactly what I needed to know. That picture is great as well.
Much appreciated.
Rich Phillips
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05-28-2016, 02:56 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: IL
Posts: 1,295
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Hi,
Thanks to all of you, and a special shout-out of appreciation to Doug Currie, for his off-forum help with my installation.
After dodging various rain- and thunderstorms in the last week, I now have three hundred watts of Kyocera panels, a Trimetric controller/monitor combo, two Trojan T-105's, and a 1500 watt inverter up and running on the rig. (And I definitely took note of the rather large open space remaining if I want to install another couple of panels later on.)
Can't wait to get it out on the road and in the woods and see how it all works for us.
Rich Phillips
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06-02-2016, 11:08 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richp
Hi,
Thanks to all of you, and a special shout-out of appreciation to Doug Currie, for his off-forum help with my installation.
After dodging various rain- and thunderstorms in the last week, I now have three hundred watts of Kyocera panels, a Trimetric controller/monitor combo, two Trojan T-105's, and a 1500 watt inverter up and running on the rig. (And I definitely took note of the rather large open space remaining if I want to install another couple of panels later on.)
Can't wait to get it out on the road and in the woods and see how it all works for us.
Rich Phillips
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What Trojan 105's do you have? I have found different options at pretty dramatic price differences. T105-88, T105-1000, T105 Plus, T105RE, etc...
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06-03-2016, 04:42 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: IL
Posts: 1,295
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Hi FL,
I confess I didn't know there were variations. They look just like every other T105 I've ever seen.
I paid about $120 each, with exchange, at a golf car repair shop in Foley, Alabama last winter.
Sorry I couldn't be more help.
Rich
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06-04-2016, 05:08 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 129
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Enjoy that solar you'll be happy you did it.
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