Travel Trailer solution to carry generator.

opcop · 03-19-2009, 08:53 PM

I needed a way to carry my generator on my trailer so I didn't have to put it in the back of my Suburban and smell the fuel. My solution was a platform carrier. Since my rear bumper is made of steel and welded to the frame, I bought a Curt hitch adapter and a Draw Tite platform carrier that folds up out of the way if you don't need it for the generator. I also added an extra tail light on the carrier since it sticks out. I use a hitch lock so the carrier doesn't get stolen and I use adjustable slide locks to secure the bottom frame of my generator to the floor of the carrier. So far no weld breaks or twisting of the bumper. It works great. I even have room to attach a 5 gallon fuel can on the carrier. My generator is a Craftsman 5600 watt.

**Bama Rambler** · 03-20-2009, 07:07 AM

That's a nice idea.

Having said that. It puts some serious twisting moment on that square tubing. I'm not saying it won't be ok but I'd definitely put it on my list of things to check very closely every stop. I'd closely check the welds of the bumper supports at the bumper and the frame at least each trip. I'd also try and move the draw bar on the tray into the receiver as far as possible even if it means drilling a new hole closer to the hinge.

Just trying to make sure you don't have a non-happy camping experience.

Now take that thing and go camping!

Radio · 03-20-2009, 02:31 PM

The twisting motion can be reduced by drilling another hole in the Draw Tite carrier for the retaining pin so the carrier and generator ride closer to the bumper. The "Lever" would be shorter.

MtnGuy · 03-21-2009, 07:44 AM

I was hoping that more members would chime in here so I would not feel the need to comment, but this setup concerns me some.

The Craftsman 5600 weighs 156 lbs. empty, and along with the Drawtite platform there is probably ~200 lbs. centered about 2' back from the bumper. That is a lot of weight bouncing down the road. At the bare miminum, I would shorten up the hitch shank like Radio suggested, keep a close eye on everything like Bama suggested, and run everything across the scales to make sure the tongue weight is in the 12-15% range.

BTW....great lookn' mod.

Keep us posted on how it works out. I have been considering mounting a couple of small boxes on my bumper to carry chock blocks and such (maybe max. of 30 lbs. or so), and if your setup works good, then my addition should be a piece of cake.

opcop · 03-22-2009, 01:42 AM

When I first set this up I was concerned about the weight and bumper as well. I attached the Curt adapter as close to the frame connection w/o the carrier sticking out beyond the side of the TT. There is also a piece of angle iron that is welded just behind the bumper and is welded to both frames. It was a tight fit, but there was enough room to slide the Curt adapter in between the bumper and the angle iron. The angle iron actually keeps the weight from the carrier from twisting the bumper. It's been on the trailer for about 2 years and so far so good. I always check the welds each trip. I'm not sure if all Rockwoods have this same angle iron bracket between the frames just behind the bumper.

MtnGuy · 03-22-2009, 06:56 AM

opcop, my Surveyor has that a similar angle iron attachement from the bumper to the frame. So after your 2 years of successful traveling with no problems, I will not feel hesitant to add the storage boxes to my bumper. It should actually help me some, as my tongue weight is approching 14%, and that is before I add any water to the black tank, which is well ahead of the axles.

Thanks for the reply back.

TravelSoftballDad · 03-25-2009, 08:57 PM

Is there a way you can post a picture (or pictures) of the underside of your bumper...showing the welds and angle iron? I've been seriously thinking of doing this mod myself and want to compare your underside to my Salem 26TBSS's.

Thanks !!

SalemMaker · 03-26-2009, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TravelSoftballDad

Is there a way you can post a picture (or pictures) of the underside of your bumper...showing the welds and angle iron? I've been seriously thinking of doing this mod myself and want to compare your underside to my Salem 26TBSS's.

Thanks !!

I wouldn't do that if I were you Travel Dad. I used to work for Salem and the angle iron we used for that particular section has a lower tensil strength than other models. Your particular model, the Triple Bunk, was among the weakest. Unless you want to pick your generator up off the freeway (or parts of the generator more like it)

SalemMaker

TravelSoftballDad · 03-26-2009, 09:02 PM

Thanks Salem...I was afraid of that ;-(

What are your thoughts in terms of me re-enforcing it with new angle iron? Still no-go or ???

Thanks again !!

rekop · 03-27-2009, 11:59 AM

I placed a 4x4 steel beam behind my rear bumper and welded it to the trailer frame on each end. then i welded a reciever hitch to the 4x4 steel beam and the cheap bumper.
the 4x4 steel square tubing was about $70. The reciever hitch was about $45. Piece of mind Priceless.........my 5'r is a 09 wildcat qbbs my generator is a 9000 watt 245lbs. I hunt alot and go desert riding on my quads. this set up has never failed me. this is my second rig set up this way in the last 10 years. when my geneartor is not back there my atv trailer is with 3 bikes.

milzat · 03-27-2009, 05:39 PM

Check the welds(bumper-to-frame).
From what I've seen on the Rockwood & Flagstaff trailers, there aint much there.

Also, I'd be afraid the light-wall 4X4 bumper would stress-crack over time. It is made of very thin material.
If it were me, I'd replace the bumper with at least 4"X4"X1/8" tubing and add bracing at the bumper-to-frame area..

aintgotnun · 03-27-2009, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by milzat

If it were me, I'd replace the bumper with at least 4"X4"X1/8" tubing and add bracing at the bumper-to-frame area..

That be a "Redneck Brush Guard" right thar

opcop · 03-28-2009, 12:06 AM

You all offer some great suggestions. It would be my luck the darn thing falls off now. I've been lucky so far. Maybe it's time to beef it up. 2 years may have put some stress on the bumper that I just can't see. I'm thinking of having a fabricator weld a steel strap from the top of the frame and wrap it around the face of the bumper and down underneath to the bottom of the frame. Weld the strap on both sides all the way around. That should secure the bumper for sure. If I do that plus, put a thicker walled tubular bumper on the back, that should set me up just fine for the future. What do ya think?

milzat · 03-28-2009, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by opcop

You all offer some great suggestions. It would be my luck the darn thing falls off now. I've been lucky so far. Maybe it's time to beef it up. 2 years may have put some stress on the bumper that I just can't see. I'm thinking of having a fabricator weld a steel strap from the top of the frame and wrap it around the face of the bumper and down underneath to the bottom of the frame. Weld the strap on both sides all the way around. That should secure the bumper for sure. If I do that plus, put a thicker walled tubular bumper on the back, that should set me up just fine for the future. What do ya think?

Thar ya go !!

zgoose68 · 04-15-2009, 02:11 PM

Saw this a few months back on a Flagstaff. You keep the Stock 4" inch bumper but you add 'C' channel as reinforcement. It's not my photo but here's a link to album..

I will try it this summer.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo...03923300RPXaXE

Later
John

Filterman · 04-10-2017, 09:32 PM

Interesting topic. I'm just embarking on the same project. Have a welder building me a platform from all aluminum big enough for a generator box ( if I can find one for my Yamaha 3000) as well as a storage tote for stuff. He is going to cut the old 4X4 bumper off at the end of the frame rales and drill the frame and mounting beams on the platform and bolt it to the trailer frame. Should be pretty solid. Like someone else mentioned, I'm trying to transfer weight from my rear truck axle and make a little more space in my pickup box.
If any one has a suggestion for a good box to fit a ES3000 Yamaha gen set. Lots of them available for 1000 and 2000 watt units but still looking for a larger one.

glen1971 · 04-10-2017, 10:01 PM

In addition to the twisting from the generator and trailer bouncing down the road, I'd also be looking at how the addition has changed your approach to a gravel road/campsite, if boondocking... You've added 2'+ on the back end of your trailer, and may be bottoming out more, if you go through certain incline lengths/angles.. As others have said, keep an eye out for stress cracks and I'd make sure that generator was doing as little bouncing as possible...

Big Paul · 04-15-2017, 03:18 PM

This is what I used for bikes but it is made for a generator. No bounce at all with bikes and am sure gen would be same way. Personally I would be afraid to put on bumper but maybe weld receiver to frame. I am sure most on here will say something against that but I have saw more with a 2" receiver welded to frame and extra support welded to frame.

Ridgerunr · 04-18-2017, 02:44 PM

Their is a company called Mount-N-Lock, that makes a product called Safety struts. It adds needed support to where the bumper attaches to the frame. They claim it will make your bumper support up to 400 Lbs. With the weight of that generator it will cause medal fatigue and it will cause the bumper to fall off your trailer, I have seen it happen. Also it could cause a serious accident for the poor bastard who is following you when it decides to fall off.

doc73 · 04-18-2017, 03:48 PM

While I put my geni's in my truck bed, I can attest to the good quality of the Safety Struts. Put them on my camper back when I got them at the Hershey RV show. Made me feel a bit more secure about my rear bumper. I have a reinforced bumper with carrier and I still did not trust Lippert..

You may also like: