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Old 01-18-2022, 07:27 AM   #41
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c-wire transformer hookup

I like your posts very much, but am not as electrically literate as you. I wired the new WiFi Honeywell thermostat in my 2021 Rockwood Mini Lite with a Coleman Mach t-stat, but I'm confused as to what to do with the red and blue wires, so i left them disconnected for now because i am concerned about the impact of mixing the 24vac with the 12v DC of the RV system. From your post, I think you are saying that I can hook up the red wire to the R terminal without concern. But, I don't know what to do with the blue wire which was connected to DC-. The instructions for the 24v transformer said to connect 1 wire to the blue terminal and the other to the RC terminal.
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Old 01-18-2022, 06:41 PM   #42
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BBruce,
I will try to help your install assuming timing is not critical. Please PM me and we'll go from there.
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Old 01-18-2022, 08:57 PM   #43
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Certainly go by OP, but blue is common, and goes to ground. It's what gives the tstat 24vac when the heat is on (when heat is off, there is 24vac potential to power it).
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Old 01-23-2022, 05:54 PM   #44
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Success for BigBruce!

For anyone that was wondering if BigBruce would be successful, the answer is YES!

As of an hour ago, we talked on the phone and all is working as it should.

While his is a new TT, it uses the typical (basic) thermostat. In other words, it was not a modern integrated serial bus with built in WiFi. But now he has complete control over his new thermostat whether or not he is at the trailer via a simple phone app and his ever present (in the trailer) WiFi and Internet connectivity.

Between us we’ll post some more info out there as this is a great modification for old or new RVs as long as you have WiFi with Internet connetivity in your RV.

Congrats Bruce on getting it done!
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Old 09-15-2022, 11:11 PM   #45
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Following the thread

I have been reading this and trying to decipher the wiring diagram. Are you connecting the wire from the 24v converter and the green wire from the AC unit to the same terminal on the thermostat? If so is this a dometic AC unit?


I have been trying to use the "resistors" shown to hook up the Nest thermostat up and I have yet to get the AC to work. Furnace works fine, with or without the resistors.


Would it be possible to get a pic of the thermostat wiring?
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Old 09-17-2022, 08:50 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dandib View Post
Would it be possible to get a pic of the thermostat wiring?
The 24VAC is hooked up to the C and the Rc of the t-stat. Also hooked up to the Rc is the Green Wire from the Dometic A/C unit. The Green Wire is for the +12VDC however your color may be different. And my concern is a picture will be misleading if your colors are different. My suggestion is to map out each of your wire’s function. I have detailed how do this and more in my post on retrofitting a Home style Wifi t-stat here: https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...-a-253684.html

Let me know if still need help.
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Old 09-17-2022, 09:02 PM   #47
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Brand of AC unit

I have been told that the Dometic units are very specific on the voltage input from the thermostat. What brand of AC does your camp have?



My thermostat is the Honeywell RTH9585WF. Is this similar to what you use?
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Old 09-18-2022, 08:39 AM   #48
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dandib:

I have a 2007 era Dometic Duo-Therm. It previously had an analog style t-stat that I converted to, initially a digital read out type, and then to a ‘smart’ WiFi the Honeywell RTH6580WF. Your Honeywell RTH9585WF is the current version of the 6580, i.e., they operate the same way, have the same connections, and provide the same features.

As far as being “very specific on the voltage input from the thermostat”: First off, I assume you have a typical A/C and separate gas heater in your RV that used a typical analog t-stat like this:
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If that is true then you can covert to the RTH9585WF. Your install will use the same +12VDC to operate the A/C and Heater as it currently does. But you need to add in 24VAC power for the t-stat electronics and WiFi (the so called “C” wire). Note: it’s possible your RV uses -12VDC (really a ground) to control the A/C and Heater but either way, you’re A/C and Heater will still be controlled with the same voltage and the exact the same way it was on the old t-stat. Further up in this post is “The Theory Part” and it explains how can have both 12VDC and 24VAC on the same circuit.

How do you know if +12VDC or GND triggers for the A/C and Heater? It easy and all of this plus how to determine which wires of your RV do what is detailed out in my post: https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...-a-253684.html

Hopefully it will help and if not PM me and we’ll go from there.

Good luck and
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Old 09-18-2022, 04:44 PM   #49
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Thank you for your patience and explanations. Only other question I have before trying this again is regarding the AC Fan. What if I only run it on high (never use low)? Can I only hook up the high speed or can they be hooked together?
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Old 09-18-2022, 06:44 PM   #50
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Can I only hook up the high speed or can they be hooked together?
You have a few choices regarding the fan: (1) high speed only (2) low speed only and (3) both high and low > but this requires a little more work and about $10. Do NOT hook the High and Low together!

My suggestion is hook up the low-speed fan for now and get all this working. And then with that confidence gained tackle the High and Low switch. Why Low? With the WiFi remote access capability, you can turn on the A/C prior to getting to the RV so all nice and cool > do not need high speed for quickly cooling it as you pre-cool the RV if you will. And when you are in it, better for noise.

NOTE: in this post I showed an incorrect wiring diagram for the H/L toggle switch. Its correct in the other post I have pointed to before but here are some pics of correct way along with a pic of the switch. It really is an easy upgrade and you will be glad you did it. Where to locate it depends and my other post details options for that.

Dandib: you CAN do this, it’s just a matter of some patience and sleuthing. And as a benefit it’s FUN! And another bonus: you can justify getting another tool or two in the process! (Think multimeter and soldering kit.)

And if you run into issues, please let me know (PM me) and we can work it thru.

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Old 09-18-2022, 07:51 PM   #51
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I will wire it so that I can add a switch for low/high fan easily if it works.



I think I know what the issue with my previous efforts were. Somewhere I thought I read just put the 2 fan wires together, so that was my big issue I believe.



As far as a multimeter and soldering kit, we have multiples of both I believe. So no excuse there, except I find myself setting up my own set that the guys aren't allowed to use.



It may be a few days before I get the chance to fiddle with this again and I'll pick up a switch before I do this.



Again many thanks for your encouragement and patience.
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Old 09-22-2022, 06:48 AM   #52
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Smile WiFi thermostat update

Many thanks to ESGWheel for helping me make this happen and it all works perfectly. Here is a summary of what I installed and why.
Amazon Alexa compatible WiFi thermostat $60 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I don't park my RV near my house. There is no WiFi or internet in the vicinity of my TT, but I wanted to remotely monitor the temperature in the trailer and turn on the heater as needed to protect the battery from freezing. This way I did not have to run out to my trailer (20 mile round trip) every time the temp was freezing. You see, I installed Lithium batteries in the trailer and they are permanently damaged if they freeze.
I added an an extra phone to my cell plan and left it in the TT to provide Internet service via the Hot Spot feature.
I added the 12V to 24V converter that ESG wheel recommended which provides full time power to the Amazon thermostat and to keep the cell phone charged. It has a very low DC power draw. I mounted it to a stud behind the microwave and found a 12V source in there that is on all the time.
I added the micro-switch to the faceplate of the thermostat to provide both speeds for the A/C system. See ESGWheel's post and pics.
To simplify the wiring, I used these butt connectors https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1 These were a fantastic find. They provide a secure way to splice a solid wire and a stranded wire and they will not vibrate loose, plus they make it easy to connect and disconnect wires when troubleshooting.
RESULTS: Absolutely perfect and everything works as ESGWheel designed it. I have used the setup for many months now with no problems. I did swap out the cell phone for an unlimited ATT hot spot device. This gives me unlimited streaming for my ATTStream TV service which is great as long as you are in an ATT service area. Many RV parks have weak WiFi service that does not have the bandwidth to allow streaming. You should research carrier coverage areas before you pick one. This summer we found out that ATT does not have good service in the Mountain time zone.
Thanks again to ESGWheel, he is a rock star.
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Old 09-22-2022, 08:10 AM   #53
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What microswitch is everyone using?

I caved and ordered the same thermostat I have in the house and a converter. Need to dig back through this thread for wiring. Don't think I've ever used high fan, but.....
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Old 09-22-2022, 10:01 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by aeblank View Post
What microswitch is everyone using?

I caved and ordered the same thermostat I have in the house and a converter. Need to dig back through this thread for wiring. Don't think I've ever used high fan, but.....
using your description from your other thread, I ordered this:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 09-23-2022, 07:42 PM   #55
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BigBruce,
So glad it continues to work out for you and nice find on the connectors!

Aeblank,
This is the exact switch I used and its nice and small to be able to mount within the case of many t-stats.

To anyone else interested in doing this,
My initial wiring diagram contained a mistake for the Fan Switch; the correct way is shown in my reply of 09-18-2022 above. Also, since this post, I wrote a more compete ‘how to’ along with a complementary ‘thermostat 101’ to help anyone that is interested and wants to take on a project like this.
The How To is here: https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...-a-253684.html

The Analog Thermostat 101 is here: https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...-a-253697.html
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Old 10-01-2022, 02:09 PM   #56
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May be too late now, but I was thinking of a relay. If you leave it in cooling mode, cut power, and then restore power later, will it start to cool?
You wouldn't get a temperature reading, but should be pretty easy to turn it on and off.
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Old 10-01-2022, 02:24 PM   #57
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May be too late now, but I was thinking of a relay. If you leave it in cooling mode, cut power, and then restore power later, will it start to cool?

You wouldn't get a temperature reading, but should be pretty easy to turn it on and off.
The tstat will resume cooling when power returns.. beyond that, I'm not sure I follow.
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