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Old 09-30-2018, 05:21 PM   #1
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Added electrical box on its own circuit

We’ve frequently tripped a breaker especially in colder wedther when we’ll have a heater running. We’ll forget to turn off the heater and will run a coffee pot or toaster or some other electrical demanding appliance.

As I looked at the converter / electrical breaker / 12 volt fuse panel which is under my refrigerator I thought there was enough room to add an additional outlet. I wanted to run the outlet on its own circuit breaker. I pulled out the converter and found room in the panel next to the converter. I used a retrofit electrical box, cut the hole in the paneling and mounted the box. Ran wire into the converter, and installed an additional 15 amp breaker. Made all the connections and new I have an electrical plug on its own circuit. No more tripping breakers.
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Old 09-30-2018, 06:35 PM   #2
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It is always good to have high amp items on their own circuit. You may find that if you get more high amp circuits running you will get your main breaker to trip. You will then have to decide what items you want to run anyway.
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Old 09-30-2018, 06:59 PM   #3
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yep, most of the time the factories don't give us enough SEPARATE circuits, for times like these... otherwise it makes you have to 'share' the circuit with another 'larger' appliance or device, which aggravates the owner when they want to do both at the same time : /

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Old 09-30-2018, 07:10 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarabooBob View Post
It is always good to have high amp items on their own circuit. You may find that if you get more high amp circuits running you will get your main breaker to trip. You will then have to decide what items you want to run anyway.
I agree, but I feel better splitting the electrical load onto seperate circuits.
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Old 10-01-2018, 01:05 PM   #5
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Did the same for the same reason on a little PUP years ago. Our furnace would startle us awake each time it fired, so when we had shore power, we'd use a little 1500 watt ceramic heater to heat the PUP instead of the furnace. Worked great. Use a high quality GFCI outlet just in case.

P.S. But don't rely on this arrangement and overload the circuit if you've stepped down from 30 amps to a 15 amp connection if plugged in via a step-down adapter. You'll blow the breakers from your supply source...for example, your home. Then you're back to choosing one or the other.
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Old 10-01-2018, 01:47 PM   #6
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Additional electrical box

Two years ago I added a totally separate outlet that bypasses everything in my 2006 Surveyor, including the converter.
I installed an outlet on the front panel of the sink cabinet so that I could hide the wire. I ran the wire down through the floor and installed an exterior outlet box under the floor (about 6 inches in from the exterior side of the trailer.)
I then retrofitted a second Male plug onto a 50 foot # 12 extension cord so that I could plug one end into the campsite pedestal 110 outlet and the other end into my new exterior outlet.
I have run a 1200 watt heater many times with this setup with no problems.
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Old 10-01-2018, 06:12 PM   #7
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Did the same for the MH so we can run two space heaters at opposite ends to balance the heat. Can run both heaters on low to med down to about 40 degrees outside.
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Old 10-01-2018, 06:41 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by formerFR View Post
yep, most of the time the factories don't give us enough SEPARATE circuits, for times like these... otherwise it makes you have to 'share' the circuit with another 'larger' appliance or device, which aggravates the owner when they want to do both at the same time : /

travel, park, enjoy!
Actually in many cases, the factory has no choice based on the electrical code. If you have a residential reefer, an electric hot water heater and an air conditioner (i.e. more than 2 thermostatically controlled loads) they cannot have more than 5 breakers on a 30 amp unit. It is just the way it is!
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Old 10-01-2018, 08:26 PM   #9
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Barry1, Do I understand you have TWO (2) Male ends on an extension cord? That's totally unacceptable. I hope I'm wrong in my understanding of your post. Your going to get someone seriously hurt someday if that's true.
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Old 10-01-2018, 08:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry1 View Post
Two years ago I added a totally separate outlet that bypasses everything in my 2006 Surveyor, including the converter.
I installed an outlet on the front panel of the sink cabinet so that I could hide the wire. I ran the wire down through the floor and installed an exterior outlet box under the floor (about 6 inches in from the exterior side of the trailer.)
I then retrofitted a second Male plug onto a 50 foot # 12 extension cord so that I could plug one end into the campsite pedestal 110 outlet and the other end into my new exterior outlet.
I have run a 1200 watt heater many times with this setup with no problems.
NEVER use an extension cord with two male ends. You will get somebody killed!!! use a proper WP male plug on the trailer.
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Old 10-02-2018, 08:10 AM   #11
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CORRECTION TO MY ORIGINAL POST..
Thank you very much weatherguru1 for addressing my poorly worded procedure.
What I actually did was to add a Male plug under the trailer. Note that there is no power in that line until I connect it with my #12 extension to the campsite pedestal
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Old 10-02-2018, 08:29 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eprovenzano View Post
We’ve frequently tripped a breaker especially in colder wedther when we’ll have a heater running. We’ll forget to turn off the heater and will run a coffee pot or toaster or some other electrical demanding appliance.

As I looked at the converter / electrical breaker / 12 volt fuse panel which is under my refrigerator I thought there was enough room to add an additional outlet. I wanted to run the outlet on its own circuit breaker. I pulled out the converter and found room in the panel next to the converter. I used a retrofit electrical box, cut the hole in the paneling and mounted the box. Ran wire into the converter, and installed an additional 15 amp breaker. Made all the connections and new I have an electrical plug on its own circuit. No more tripping breakers.

I do this on all of my rigs specifically for a space heater. I then have a dedicated breaker, a very short 12-2 Romex run, and use a heavy duty receptacle. I don't trust the push type connections on the RV receptacles to make good enough contact to run a space heater.
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Old 10-02-2018, 08:54 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry1 View Post
CORRECTION TO MY ORIGINAL POST..
Thank you very much weatherguru1 for addressing my poorly worded procedure.
What I actually did was to add a Male plug under the trailer. Note that there is no power in that line until I connect it with my #12 extension to the campsite pedestal
I feel better now!
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Old 10-02-2018, 07:22 PM   #14
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Wow, I actually read something and understood it. I'm ready for my test. Barry1- Good show on the correction. Thanks, We'll all sleep better.
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Old 10-02-2018, 09:53 PM   #15
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Recently converted my 5th wheel from 30 amps to 50 amp service and am in the process of installing 5 new outlets in my rig for supplemental heat this winter.

I love the face that I can run the hot water heater, microwave, and air conditioner at the same time without tripping a breaker.
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