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Old 10-11-2013, 08:55 PM   #1
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Boards or no Boards?

This tip was given to me, but I would like some verification. I have a 2013 Cardinal fiver 37' in which my wife and I live half time. It has 6 automatic hydraulic jacks; however, some of the RV weight is on the tires. I was told to maintain the integrity of the tires, I should park it up on 2x8 planks instead of the chipseal lot. This would of course raise the entire RV 1-1/2 inches, thus extending the jacks.
So, boards or no boards, that is the question.

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Old 10-11-2013, 09:12 PM   #2
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If your system is on auto level it will end up at the same place with less jack extension. The biggest enemy of tire life is mot using them, and father time. The clock is up at 7 years max.
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Old 10-11-2013, 09:25 PM   #3
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As long as the jacks have enough reach I would go with the boards. Of course you can also add blocks under the jacks if needed.
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Old 10-11-2013, 09:31 PM   #4
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If your system is on auto level it will end up at the same place with less jack extension. The biggest enemy of tire life is mot using them, and father time. The clock is up at 7 years max.
Will the jacks not extend an additional 1-1/2" to adjust for the boards? The unit will be 1-1/2" higher off the ground.
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Old 10-11-2013, 09:58 PM   #5
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I carry boards with me, but only have the normal 5 er set up with rear stab jack and landing gear...almost all the time use a board under those too along with tires....so seems balanced even if parking is level....plus I keep tire inflated to normal cold max...with x chocks.....good luck with the levelers...
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Old 10-13-2013, 12:00 AM   #6
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Interesting topic. Being new to RVs, I always wondered if it would be better to store my trailer on jacks and keep the tires off of the ground during storage. I have my boat/trailer on jack stands where the tires are completely suspended in the air during storage.

Thanks and sorry for the hijack.
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Old 10-13-2013, 07:39 AM   #7
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Try not to store tires on asphalt/chip seal. It will "suck out" the internal lubes, etc. in the tires and shorten their usable life. The 2x (12) is way better. Try not to extend the inner legs any more than necessary (I try not more than 5-7 holes) as there are only 13 holes on the rear of mine and 15-17 on the front. The more stable and less inherent movement, the longer everything will last.
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:35 AM   #8
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I always put boards under all 6 of my jacks.

#1 Jacks extend 1 1/2" less.
#2 Larger base.
#3 Keeps moisture off bottom of jack plate.
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Old 10-28-2013, 07:34 AM   #9
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tires

Interesting. There are only two things that will cause a tire to "go bad" one is UV rays which the sun puts out and dries the tire out causing cracks in the tire that eventually lead to a blown tire. The other is over inflation, if you pump your tires up to max psi and drive down a hot asphalt or concrete highway the tire will "grow" or the air inside will heat up from the friction between the rubber on the tire and the road surface causing a blow out. The boards between the tire and road surface really has nothing to do with the tire going bad, for the most part it's there for leveling of the vehicle. To put a vehicle on jack stands during winter (I do this to my cars in storage) is to prevent flat spots on the tire, if all the weight is on the vehicle pushing down on the tires it really doesn't matter what it's sitting on they will eventually have flat spots.
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Old 10-28-2013, 11:17 AM   #10
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Interesting. There are only two things that will cause a tire to "go bad" one is UV rays which the sun puts out and dries the tire out causing cracks in the tire that eventually lead to a blown tire. The other is over inflation, if you pump your tires up to max psi and drive down a hot asphalt or concrete highway the tire will "grow" or the air inside will heat up from the friction between the rubber on the tire and the road surface causing a blow out. The boards between the tire and road surface really has nothing to do with the tire going bad, for the most part it's there for leveling of the vehicle. To put a vehicle on jack stands during winter (I do this to my cars in storage) is to prevent flat spots on the tire, if all the weight is on the vehicle pushing down on the tires it really doesn't matter what it's sitting on they will eventually have flat spots.
Both my full size van and Toyota truck are run at the recommended maximum air pressure all year long. It was suggested by the tire shop.

I used to park a car that was only driven on weekends at a storage yard and tires were inflated to the maximum suggested pressure. It still had flat spots when taken out for a drive but they disappeared fairly quickly.

I do have my boat on jack stands as it isn't used as often.
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:19 PM   #11
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Tires will heat up much faster when driven from under inflation; this is what typically cause tire "blow outs". I thought the question was concerning storage?
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:05 PM   #12
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I don't use boards, the tire guy I use says it won't matter. that tires sitting on asphalt don't have the oils leached out, nor does sitting on stones cause broken cords. SAt his suggestion, after I'm parked at the storage place, I fill the tires to 10psi over. This seems to help with flat spots a little.
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Old 12-07-2013, 06:45 PM   #13
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The only two known enemies of tire rot to my knowledge is UV light and moisture. I had my last camper under side shed of my garage and noticed tires on outside were showing signs of dry rot. Tires on inside next to garage wall were fine. ie UV Light. Now moisture in the air inside the tire will break the compounds down inside of tire. Use nitrogen (Cleaned air) to prevent this or postpone it. This of coarse if you maintain proper pressures which you should always check. Most tire failures are caused by low pressure ( It looked fine, Did you check air pressures= No it looked fine) As far as flat spots my truck does this everyday when its cold. 1 mile and its gone 1/2 mile if I do the nascar weave.LOL I don't think I will be putting a 42 ft 13,000 fith wheel on jack stands. It is what it is, so cover your tires in storage, swap air for nitrogen, and hope you get 5 yrs out of them. HAPPY TRAILS
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Old 12-07-2013, 09:37 PM   #14
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Your levelibg system is designed to take it. I parked in a spot and hit the button while I hooked up power and water. When I went aroybd to the door side the tires were 6 inches off the ground. It did not shake any more than with 4 tires on the gound. Love my level up system.
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Old 12-13-2013, 05:54 PM   #15
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Level up system is not designed to take tires off the ground. It will do it but not good for trailer frame or level up system. This is from Sonny at Lippert who helped design the system.
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Old 12-14-2013, 12:56 AM   #16
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I beg to differ with you. My documentation states it is designed to do this if necessary to level the rv. One jack has the capacity to support the entire rig. Each jack is loaded at 1/6 its capacity. All cupboards open and close normally. The slides operate normally and close very tightly. The ffame undergoes much more severe stress traveling down tbe road than when it is supported my the jacks, which are designed to support it.
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Old 12-14-2013, 06:00 AM   #17
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Quote:
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Level up system is not designed to take tires off the ground. It will do it but not good for trailer frame or level up system. This is from Sonny at Lippert who helped design the system.
I do have a question for you? I heard the same thing, not knowing how true it is. I was wondering If your level up system picks up one side of the RV because the uneven space, why couldn't you place blocks under the lifted side wheels as normal and then retract the system to rest on the blocks instead of the rams? That would take the pressure off the system but get you level? It seems to me it would be the same as leveling an RV without the system.
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Old 12-14-2013, 08:57 AM   #18
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You are defeating the purpose of the system. It is designed to push one button abd walk away. It will do what it needs to level itself. Also if you relieve some pressure you have just induced bounce into your rv. As you move around it will bounce up and down because you have lowered it down to be partially supported by the tires. Even on level ground my rv is lifted so much that the rotochocks are not in contact with the tires. As the rv is lifted the tires move apart. The only time I feel movement is when the washer goes into spin cycle.
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Old 12-14-2013, 10:04 AM   #19
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I always put boards under tires and carry extra for 2 reasons .
1) leveling, getting the trailer level before putting jacks down makes it easier on the jacks and leveling with the jacks can twist frame of trailer causing permanent damage to it. Was always under the impression they were called Stabilizer Jacks, used to keep shaking to a minimum.
2) Went camping once and it turned into a mud fest and I watched as RV's and Trailers sat bogged in the mire and had to call wreckers to pull them out and when I left just drove out by putting extra boards under drive wheels of my truck, didn't need 4 wheel drive. Now I was told by one of the ones pulled out the wrecker cost them $100 for it to show up and $5 a min from then till pulled out total 30 min to an hour for most. Now I spent $30 dollars for my Boards and get to use them over and over, They spent $400 to get towed out and any damage it may cost on their RV. Seems only logical to put the boards under the wheels.
I also attached pieces of wood to the Stabilizer Jacks using carriage bolts to give them a little larger foot so they don't sink into the mud and keeps then from getting rusted up.
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Old 12-14-2013, 10:19 AM   #20
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Mark, I think the other folks on this thread are talking about the automatic leveling systems that some campers and motorhomes have.

You're right about stabilize jacks, but these are different for the automatic system jacks.
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