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08-16-2013, 11:52 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 40
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Chock technique... thoughts?
I am curious what others might think of a technique I have been using this summer. I am using the plastic wedge chocks and this is on relatively level sites.
I get situated/level and put a chock up tight behind the front tire of the trailer, then put the truck in reverse and just put some pressure on the chock, then while still applying the pressure, my wife will slide another chock in front of the tire. Let the pressure off and the tire is wedged between the two chocks. My thought is this might achieve some of the desired effect of one-step or even a x-chock. What do you think?
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08-17-2013, 12:05 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,137
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After leveling side to side, I use one of these on each side;
Amazon.com: BAL 28020 Single Axle Tire Chock: Automotive
Our next TT will have 16" rims so I may need to have a longer turnbuckle built to fit.
You should be able to find a much lower price.
I wouldn't ask my wife to do what you have your wife do.
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2012 Surveyor SV264
NW Oregon
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08-17-2013, 12:08 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 40
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Wife
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twisty
After leveling side to side, I use one of these on each side;
Amazon.com: BAL 28020 Single Axle Tire Chock: Automotive
Our next TT will have 16" rims so I may need to have a longer turnbuckle built to fit.
You should be able to find a much lower price.
I wouldn't ask my wife to do what you have your wife do.
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Sometimes if she isn't available I can do it by putting on the E-brake and doing it myself. A lot of the time she is guiding me into a spot so she is right there. Were you suggesting that it's dangerous?
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08-17-2013, 12:24 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,137
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I'm not picking at what you do or nit picking what you do.
I wouldn't do it.
Plastic chocks might slip. I don't know for a fact that they do or can but they look like they might.
I've done a lot of rigging and heavy moving. We use rubber and metal goods.
A slipping chock could spook or injure someone. Sometimes the injury happens because of a spook - loss of balance, panic reflex, a "knee jerk reaction", etc.
I don't let my wife near the 12,000 lb plus setup that we run until I know that to the best of my ability and knowledge it will stay put.
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FOR SALE 2014 BOSS 6.2L F350
2012 Surveyor SV264
NW Oregon
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08-17-2013, 03:14 PM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,835
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to expect just plastic wedge chocks, to keep the trailer from moving, is an accident waiting to happen.
wedge chocks are only good for a temporary use, until you can get a tandem wheel chock in on BOTH sides.
unless you have a single axle and then you need to get BAL's single axle chock setup.
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08-17-2013, 03:54 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Missouri
Posts: 911
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We are new TT owners, can see some of my other posts for what not to do. LOL
As for chocking. I go with the rule, they are the first things on the tires and the last thing off.
We get it in and level. Then use chocks on both sides.
Once they are in, then I unhook from the truck.
So far, no issues. I don't put any pressure on them with the truck at all. I just push then up tight to the tire.
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Mark B.
2021 GMC 1500
Anderson WDH
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09-14-2013, 10:31 PM
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#7
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Professional Curmudgeon
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 754
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The method you are referring to has been practiced since long before x-chocks or any other between the wheel chocking system was marketed and I know for a fact I had a TT with this method specified by the manufacturer as the preferred method of securing the TT in place. Between the wheel chocks rely strictly on friction to hold the wheels in place. As the temperature of the tires change due to cooling (after being pulled in) or air temperature change, the tire diameter decreases, reducing the effectiveness of the between the wheel chock considerably. These things are good for stabilization, but to rely on them to keep the camper from rolling is a mistake.
While plastic chocks are not my preferred material, because exposure to UV makes them brittle, the weight of the tire pressing down on the leading edge of the wedge is what holds it in place. I understand you are not endorsing driving the wheels "up onto" the chock, but simply putting pressure on it, then letting it roll forward onto the front chock, thereby getting them tighter than you could by banging on them with a mallet.
Personally though, I would put rearward pressure on the back chock, set the parking brake, put it in park, then set the forward chock myself, then put the truck in neutral and release the parking brake. Easing off the foot brake will allow the wheels to settle into the center of the chocks without "shocking" the setup.
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09-14-2013, 11:07 PM
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#8
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Denver, CO
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 2,102
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Rotochoks do it all and the small change in "diameter" with temperature is insignificant for the rotochoks. They lamp firmly and don"t need adjusting, no rachet or anything else. Once level side to side , set the roto's and forget em. First on and las toff.
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2017 Fuse 23T
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09-14-2013, 11:32 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: California
Posts: 479
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I use a single chock on each side. Have only been out a few times but seem to work well. (Don't mind the flat it's fixed)
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2014 FR Wildwood 32BHDS
2013 Days Camped 14
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09-15-2013, 03:53 AM
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#10
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Just a member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Great White North
Posts: 921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lvnthenw
My thought is this might achieve some of the desired effect of one-step or even a x-chock. What do you think?
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Yep, that'll achieve some of the desired affect but there are hazards associated with the technique as has been identified by some of your responders. I employ only two rubber chocks (not a fan of the plastic variety) and typically set them on one side or the other depending the terrain. Once we're level, the x-chocks go in and they do indeed work as advertised and eliminates the hassle of wedging the wheels between the chocks to prevent the unit from rocking.
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TT: 2011 Rockwood 8293RKSS
TV: 2019 Dodge 3500 SRW Crew HO CTD
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09-15-2013, 06:52 AM
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#11
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: St. Paul, Minnesota
Posts: 3,368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garbonz
Rotochoks do it all and the small change in "diameter" with temperature is insignificant for the rotochoks. They lamp firmly and don"t need adjusting, no rachet or anything else. Once level side to side , set the roto's and forget em. First on and las toff.
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X2. And you can always use Rotochoks on the both sides; even if you have used lego blocks to raise one side.
But they don't work with widely separated axles.
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09-15-2013, 09:07 AM
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#12
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Denver, CO
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 2,102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acadianbob
X2. And you can always use Rotochoks on the both sides; even if you have used lego blocks to raise one side.
But they don't work with widely separated axles.
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Yeppers, You can get them pretty wide but there is a limit. I think they are well worth the price both for convenience and safety.. The hard plastic wedge pieces REALLY grip the tires. IMO
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2017 Fuse 23T
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09-15-2013, 04:00 PM
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#13
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Oklahoma Proud
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: central OK
Posts: 2,784
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I just kick the chocks in, the plastic wedges hold pretty tight. If parking on boards, I may drive a couple of 16 penny nails in behind the chocks for a little extra.
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09-15-2013, 04:26 PM
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#14
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrvond
...Between the wheel chocks rely strictly on friction to hold the wheels in place. As the temperature of the tires change due to cooling (after being pulled in) or air temperature change, the tire diameter decreases, reducing the effectiveness of the between the wheel chock considerably. These things are good for stabilization, but to rely on them to keep the camper from rolling is a mistake.
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I have used the Bal X Chocks for 7 years now and on more than 1 occasion have forgotten to remove them before attempting to move the trailer and cannot budge the trailer with them installed. Have never had to tighten them due to temperature changes or a tire diameter decrease. I use them as a pull test to make sure the hitch is secured. First thing installed after parking and last thing removed before leaving.
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09-16-2013, 10:54 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 204
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I use the BAL Deluxe Chocks They were the original chocks(before the X chocks). I've used them since 2004. with no issues, I do occasionally check them to make sure they remain tight. I see no reason to not rely on them to secure the wheels.
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2013 Coachmen Catalina 25RKS 2006 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
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09-16-2013, 07:42 PM
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#16
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Professional Curmudgeon
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
I have used the Bal X Chocks for 7 years now and on more than 1 occasion have forgotten to remove them before attempting to move the trailer and cannot budge the trailer with them installed. Have never had to tighten them due to temperature changes or a tire diameter decrease. I use them as a pull test to make sure the hitch is secured. First thing installed after parking and last thing removed before leaving.
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Glad they are working well for you. Others, besides myself, have noted that they needed to tighten both the Bal X's and Roto Chocks after the tires cool down. Still others have had them spit out and allow the camper to roll (one rolled into a tree, bending the bumper).
It is possible that in all the cases I have read about, the users had the wrong size, or simply didn't install them correctly. Nothing is beyond the ability of man to mess up.
On my last camper, I used a pair of yellow plastic wedges that didn't use a tool to tighten (I wouldn't expect plastic to stand up to that kind of pressure). They were pretty effective at reducing rocking, but that's all I would trust them for.
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2022 Cougar Half Ton 24RDS fifth wheel
2014 Coachmen Catalina 253RKS (sold)
2017 F350 6.7L DRW CC LB 4x4 Lariat
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09-16-2013, 07:50 PM
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#17
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrvond
Glad they are working well for you. Others, besides myself, have noted that they needed to tighten both the Bal X's and Roto Chocks after the tires cool down. Still others have had them spit out and allow the camper to roll (one rolled into a tree, bending the bumper).
It is possible that in all the cases I have read about, the users had the wrong size, or simply didn't install them correctly. Nothing is beyond the ability of man to mess up.
On my last camper, I used a pair of yellow plastic wedges that didn't use a tool to tighten (I wouldn't expect plastic to stand up to that kind of pressure). They were pretty effective at reducing rocking, but that's all I would trust them for.
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All I can say is evidently they were not tightened correctly when installed initially if they required attention after cooling. Kinda like changing a tire and leaving the lugnuts loose and then griping when the wheel falls off.
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09-16-2013, 08:34 PM
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#18
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Denver, CO
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 2,102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
All I can say is evidently they were not tightened correctly when installed initially if they required attention after cooling. Kinda like changing a tire and leaving the lugnuts loose and then griping when the wheel falls off.
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X22222.. Glad you said it before I did.
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09-16-2013, 08:36 PM
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#19
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Phat Phrog Stunt Crew
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Upper Penisula Michigan / Arizona
Posts: 2,767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acadianbob
X2. And you can always use Rotochoks on the both sides; even if you have used lego blocks to raise one side.
But they don't work with widely separated axles.
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I have the E Z tow wide axles on my Lacrosse. The Bal X chocks are pricey compared to close axle X chocks. So i made my own for less than $20 out of 2x4s and threaded rods. It does the job for a tenth of the cost.
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2014 GMC Sierra Crewcab 2500 Duramax
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09-16-2013, 08:40 PM
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#20
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Phat Phrog Stunt Crew
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Upper Penisula Michigan / Arizona
Posts: 2,767
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X Chocks
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2014 GMC Sierra Crewcab 2500 Duramax
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