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Old 08-16-2013, 11:52 PM   #1
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Chock technique... thoughts?

I am curious what others might think of a technique I have been using this summer. I am using the plastic wedge chocks and this is on relatively level sites.
I get situated/level and put a chock up tight behind the front tire of the trailer, then put the truck in reverse and just put some pressure on the chock, then while still applying the pressure, my wife will slide another chock in front of the tire. Let the pressure off and the tire is wedged between the two chocks. My thought is this might achieve some of the desired effect of one-step or even a x-chock. What do you think?
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Old 08-17-2013, 12:05 AM   #2
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After leveling side to side, I use one of these on each side;
Amazon.com: BAL 28020 Single Axle Tire Chock: Automotive
Our next TT will have 16" rims so I may need to have a longer turnbuckle built to fit.
You should be able to find a much lower price.

I wouldn't ask my wife to do what you have your wife do.
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Old 08-17-2013, 12:08 AM   #3
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After leveling side to side, I use one of these on each side;
Amazon.com: BAL 28020 Single Axle Tire Chock: Automotive
Our next TT will have 16" rims so I may need to have a longer turnbuckle built to fit.
You should be able to find a much lower price.

I wouldn't ask my wife to do what you have your wife do.
Sometimes if she isn't available I can do it by putting on the E-brake and doing it myself. A lot of the time she is guiding me into a spot so she is right there. Were you suggesting that it's dangerous?
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Old 08-17-2013, 12:24 AM   #4
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I'm not picking at what you do or nit picking what you do.
I wouldn't do it.
Plastic chocks might slip. I don't know for a fact that they do or can but they look like they might.
I've done a lot of rigging and heavy moving. We use rubber and metal goods.
A slipping chock could spook or injure someone. Sometimes the injury happens because of a spook - loss of balance, panic reflex, a "knee jerk reaction", etc.
I don't let my wife near the 12,000 lb plus setup that we run until I know that to the best of my ability and knowledge it will stay put.
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Old 08-17-2013, 03:14 PM   #5
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to expect just plastic wedge chocks, to keep the trailer from moving, is an accident waiting to happen.

wedge chocks are only good for a temporary use, until you can get a tandem wheel chock in on BOTH sides.
unless you have a single axle and then you need to get BAL's single axle chock setup.
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Old 08-17-2013, 03:54 PM   #6
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We are new TT owners, can see some of my other posts for what not to do. LOL
As for chocking. I go with the rule, they are the first things on the tires and the last thing off.
We get it in and level. Then use chocks on both sides.
Once they are in, then I unhook from the truck.
So far, no issues. I don't put any pressure on them with the truck at all. I just push then up tight to the tire.
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Old 09-14-2013, 10:31 PM   #7
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The method you are referring to has been practiced since long before x-chocks or any other between the wheel chocking system was marketed and I know for a fact I had a TT with this method specified by the manufacturer as the preferred method of securing the TT in place. Between the wheel chocks rely strictly on friction to hold the wheels in place. As the temperature of the tires change due to cooling (after being pulled in) or air temperature change, the tire diameter decreases, reducing the effectiveness of the between the wheel chock considerably. These things are good for stabilization, but to rely on them to keep the camper from rolling is a mistake.
While plastic chocks are not my preferred material, because exposure to UV makes them brittle, the weight of the tire pressing down on the leading edge of the wedge is what holds it in place. I understand you are not endorsing driving the wheels "up onto" the chock, but simply putting pressure on it, then letting it roll forward onto the front chock, thereby getting them tighter than you could by banging on them with a mallet.
Personally though, I would put rearward pressure on the back chock, set the parking brake, put it in park, then set the forward chock myself, then put the truck in neutral and release the parking brake. Easing off the foot brake will allow the wheels to settle into the center of the chocks without "shocking" the setup.
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Old 09-14-2013, 11:07 PM   #8
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Rotochoks do it all and the small change in "diameter" with temperature is insignificant for the rotochoks. They lamp firmly and don"t need adjusting, no rachet or anything else. Once level side to side , set the roto's and forget em. First on and las toff.
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Old 09-14-2013, 11:32 PM   #9
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I use a single chock on each side. Have only been out a few times but seem to work well. (Don't mind the flat it's fixed)

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Old 09-15-2013, 03:53 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lvnthenw View Post
My thought is this might achieve some of the desired effect of one-step or even a x-chock. What do you think?
Yep, that'll achieve some of the desired affect but there are hazards associated with the technique as has been identified by some of your responders. I employ only two rubber chocks (not a fan of the plastic variety) and typically set them on one side or the other depending the terrain. Once we're level, the x-chocks go in and they do indeed work as advertised and eliminates the hassle of wedging the wheels between the chocks to prevent the unit from rocking.
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Old 09-15-2013, 06:52 AM   #11
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Rotochoks do it all and the small change in "diameter" with temperature is insignificant for the rotochoks. They lamp firmly and don"t need adjusting, no rachet or anything else. Once level side to side , set the roto's and forget em. First on and las toff.
X2. And you can always use Rotochoks on the both sides; even if you have used lego blocks to raise one side.

But they don't work with widely separated axles.
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:07 AM   #12
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X2. And you can always use Rotochoks on the both sides; even if you have used lego blocks to raise one side.

But they don't work with widely separated axles.
Yeppers, You can get them pretty wide but there is a limit. I think they are well worth the price both for convenience and safety.. The hard plastic wedge pieces REALLY grip the tires. IMO
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Old 09-15-2013, 04:00 PM   #13
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I just kick the chocks in, the plastic wedges hold pretty tight. If parking on boards, I may drive a couple of 16 penny nails in behind the chocks for a little extra.
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Old 09-15-2013, 04:26 PM   #14
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...Between the wheel chocks rely strictly on friction to hold the wheels in place. As the temperature of the tires change due to cooling (after being pulled in) or air temperature change, the tire diameter decreases, reducing the effectiveness of the between the wheel chock considerably. These things are good for stabilization, but to rely on them to keep the camper from rolling is a mistake.
...
I have used the Bal X Chocks for 7 years now and on more than 1 occasion have forgotten to remove them before attempting to move the trailer and cannot budge the trailer with them installed. Have never had to tighten them due to temperature changes or a tire diameter decrease. I use them as a pull test to make sure the hitch is secured. First thing installed after parking and last thing removed before leaving.
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:54 AM   #15
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I use the BAL Deluxe Chocks They were the original chocks(before the X chocks). I've used them since 2004. with no issues, I do occasionally check them to make sure they remain tight. I see no reason to not rely on them to secure the wheels.
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:42 PM   #16
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I have used the Bal X Chocks for 7 years now and on more than 1 occasion have forgotten to remove them before attempting to move the trailer and cannot budge the trailer with them installed. Have never had to tighten them due to temperature changes or a tire diameter decrease. I use them as a pull test to make sure the hitch is secured. First thing installed after parking and last thing removed before leaving.
Glad they are working well for you. Others, besides myself, have noted that they needed to tighten both the Bal X's and Roto Chocks after the tires cool down. Still others have had them spit out and allow the camper to roll (one rolled into a tree, bending the bumper).
It is possible that in all the cases I have read about, the users had the wrong size, or simply didn't install them correctly. Nothing is beyond the ability of man to mess up.
On my last camper, I used a pair of yellow plastic wedges that didn't use a tool to tighten (I wouldn't expect plastic to stand up to that kind of pressure). They were pretty effective at reducing rocking, but that's all I would trust them for.
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:50 PM   #17
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Glad they are working well for you. Others, besides myself, have noted that they needed to tighten both the Bal X's and Roto Chocks after the tires cool down. Still others have had them spit out and allow the camper to roll (one rolled into a tree, bending the bumper).
It is possible that in all the cases I have read about, the users had the wrong size, or simply didn't install them correctly. Nothing is beyond the ability of man to mess up.
On my last camper, I used a pair of yellow plastic wedges that didn't use a tool to tighten (I wouldn't expect plastic to stand up to that kind of pressure). They were pretty effective at reducing rocking, but that's all I would trust them for.
All I can say is evidently they were not tightened correctly when installed initially if they required attention after cooling. Kinda like changing a tire and leaving the lugnuts loose and then griping when the wheel falls off.
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:34 PM   #18
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All I can say is evidently they were not tightened correctly when installed initially if they required attention after cooling. Kinda like changing a tire and leaving the lugnuts loose and then griping when the wheel falls off.
X22222.. Glad you said it before I did.
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:36 PM   #19
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X2. And you can always use Rotochoks on the both sides; even if you have used lego blocks to raise one side.

But they don't work with widely separated axles.
I have the E Z tow wide axles on my Lacrosse. The Bal X chocks are pricey compared to close axle X chocks. So i made my own for less than $20 out of 2x4s and threaded rods. It does the job for a tenth of the cost.
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:40 PM   #20
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