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Old 05-22-2013, 09:21 PM   #1
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Concrete block under jack

Just set up my 23ss in the driveway after returning from a camping trip to Delaware. I used a solid 8 inch block then a hollow 4 inch concrete block under the jack and removed the TV. Little while later, bam, the hollow concrete block just exploded and trailer in 4 inches lower than it was. I use wood block while camping but usually use the concrete blocks at the house.
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:25 PM   #2
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Just set up my 23ss in the driveway after returning from a camping trip to Delaware. I used a solid 8 inch block then a hollow 4 inch concrete block under the jack and removed the TV. Little while later, bam, the hollow concrete block just exploded and trailer in 4 inches lower than it was. I use wood block while camping but usually use the concrete blocks at the house.
I gather you are going to stop using concrete blocks?
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:30 PM   #3
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Just set up my 23ss in the driveway after returning from a camping trip to Delaware. I used a solid 8 inch block then a hollow 4 inch concrete block under the jack and removed the TV. Little while later, bam, the hollow concrete block just exploded and trailer in 4 inches lower than it was. I use wood block while camping but usually use the concrete blocks at the house.
You have to set the concrete block the same way it is laid in a footer for a house or wall. You cannot set it on its side. Set it like in a wall with a pc of wood under it and then another pc of wood on top and then jack on the wood.
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:43 PM   #4
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Even concrete blocks have a weight rating. I had one explode on me several years ago while leveling a mobile home.
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:56 PM   #5
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I am in materials testing and we test CMU block or Concrete Masonry Units. They are not that strong hollow, if you must use them I would fill the cells with concrete mix or a grout mix. You would be better off throwing a form together and pouring a concrete pad, much stronger. I poured two long pads for my 5th wheel and also had a tongue pad for my previous TT. I made them flush with the gravel, they look nice and you know right where to park your trailer.
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:28 AM   #6
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I scrounge new home build sites for my campfire wood. They are more than happy for you to pick through their scrap cuts pile usually out front. I have found some excellant wood pads that I use for my leveling jacks made out of I guess sandwich board ridge beams. Over an inch thick, heavy and I've found lengths as long as six feet of this stuff that I use under the wheels during winter storage. Great stuff and the price is right!
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:10 AM   #7
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x2 dumpster diving. I live in a active development where a new home is always being built. Plenty of wood for ramps and fire!
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Old 05-27-2013, 08:45 PM   #8
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That is correct sir!
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Old 05-28-2013, 04:06 AM   #9
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My brother brought a lot of old lumber scraps out to a camp site I had up on Mount Hood in Oregon a couple of years back. He got all ticked off because I would not burn his trash wood in the campground. I guess some of you do not realize that a lot of lumber is treated, has glues in it, etc. not only smells but might be giving off toxic fumes when burned. Kids breathing it in and roasting your marshmallows in toxic fumes.
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Old 05-28-2013, 01:56 PM   #10
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You certainly do not want to burn OSB, pressure treated lumber, plywood or wood that has paint or stains on it, but kiln dried 2X and 4X's are perfectly fine, in fact they don't have the bad bugs in them either so it is better than transporting your wood from home as the parks are now asking you not to do.
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Old 05-28-2013, 02:33 PM   #11
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Do realize pressure treated, glued, painted or any other type of wood will have toxic fumes and when I scrap lumber dive. I ignore that kind of wood. If DW and I want to cook over wood we will buy it at the campground we are at or bring some hard wood from home.
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Old 05-28-2013, 02:48 PM   #12
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What's sad is that some parks will only let you burn the pressed manufactured logs aka Duraflame. I'd never cook anything over those.
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Old 05-28-2013, 06:45 PM   #13
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If you can find/get them- Wood Brick Fuel is only wood and safe for cooking:

http://learntorv.blogspot.com/2013/0...-thoughts.html
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:00 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roo5008 View Post
Just set up my 23ss in the driveway after returning from a camping trip to Delaware. I used a solid 8 inch block then a hollow 4 inch concrete block under the jack and removed the TV. Little while later, bam, the hollow concrete block just exploded and trailer in 4 inches lower than it was. I use wood block while camping but usually use the concrete blocks at the house.
Thanks for the post. Our TT is currently on concrete blocks (on their sides) in the driveway; will be changed tomorrow. We also use wood when camping.
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:48 PM   #15
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The stabilizers on my camper have reached the ground everywhere that I have camped-so far. But they are extended almost all the way most of the times. The stabilizers are almost straight up and down when I do this. I also have made "footings" from construction site 2 x 6's and they are made so as to stack on top of each other and not slide around. I put one-inch (1") wooden buttons (bought at Lowes & Home Depot) on one side of these boards and used Forstner bits to make shallow holes on the other side. Sort of like "Lego's". When I use these the stabilizers do not have to be extended too far and the camper is not sitting up on four "thin legs". Maybe one day I will change out the stabilizers for good scissor jacks which I believe are better.
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:01 PM   #16
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I had the legs off my stab jacks last week and came to the conclusion that (IMO) the legs are better if they are as close to vertical as possible. They are very weak (just over 0.019" over 1/16" thick (0.082") at anything 45į or less I reinforced mine with a 2-1/2" x 1-3/4" x 1/8" C channel skip welded to the bottom side. Also add (2) 2" x 2" x 1/8" angle 63" long to the slide channel the jacks slide in. Nothing flexes now when a load is applied.
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