Furrion Fridge a joke!

[Bhrava]

Originally Posted by root

Pretty sure the off-grid mode is just a temperature dial setting. They're referring to setting the dial just to the left (warmer) then the center upright tick. 35-43 seems like a pretty large variance if your thermometer is always in the same place and you look at it right after opening the door. I keep mine in the front of the middle shelf, it's range is about 39-42°F. That and your humidity comment could both be coming from your door seal leaking that you noticed.

It is. There are no marking inside, nor a tag splainin it. Interesting enough, JTRVN posted a new video on the Furrion

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNCnwXOh1ng

He explains the testing done by Furrion and Jayco. However he didn't mention anything about the off grid setting. Supposed to have a full sun day tomorrow so will give the off gird mode a try and see if it actually will stay cold all night. What I am not sure of is if having stuff inside will be of any benefit or not. I should probably throw a case of water in just to test.

[babock]

What a joke the off grid setting is. Just get enough batteries and solar so it isn't an issue.

[root]

Originally Posted by Bhrava

It is. There are no marking inside, nor a tag splainin it. Interesting enough, JTRVN posted a new video on the Furrion

He explains the testing done by Furrion and Jayco. However he didn't mention anything about the off grid setting. Supposed to have a full sun day tomorrow so will give the off gird mode a try and see if it actually will stay cold all night. What I am not sure of is if having stuff inside will be of any benefit or not. I should probably throw a case of water in just to test.

Yeah I don't really care for manufacturer theoretical studies, using scaled figures, and under laboratory conditions. It doesn't apply even in 'great' real-world scenarios. The Furrion chart in the video does say it was in 'off-grid' mode, was the only way they could get (scaled) figures like that. I monitored my fridge draw and the OEM furrion solar panel/charge controller output with a data logging multimeter over the course of weeks in various temperature and lighting situations, and got much more realistic figures. Also I still argue 'off-grid' mode is inappropriate unless you're only going to be off-the-grid for 1 maybe 2 days. Your food will be warmer, it will slowly start to spoil mostly due to bacteria/micro-organism growth, and it won't stay edible. Thus negating the entire purpose of a fridge. So I guess you could do several-days in off-grid mode if you didn't really have anything in the fridge that could spoil, or just shove everything that does <3 inches of the back wall and potentially let it freeze (which may effect it's taste/texture). Blah. There are definitely use cases for it and to make it work. Just don't buy into their data, after all, they just want to sell you on the product.

[Bhrava]

Originally Posted by root

Yeah I don't really care for manufacturer theoretical studies, using scaled figures, and under laboratory conditions. It doesn't apply even in 'great' real-world scenarios. The Furrion chart in the video does say it was in 'off-grid' mode, was the only way they could get (scaled) figures like that. I monitored my fridge draw and the OEM furrion solar panel/charge controller output with a data logging multimeter over the course of weeks in various temperature and lighting situations, and got much more realistic figures. Also I still argue 'off-grid' mode is inappropriate unless you're only going to be off-the-grid for 1 maybe 2 days. Your food will be warmer, it will slowly start to spoil mostly due to bacteria/micro-organism growth, and it won't stay edible. Thus negating the entire purpose of a fridge. So I guess you could do several-days in off-grid mode if you didn't really have anything in the fridge that could spoil, or just shove everything that does <3 inches of the back wall and potentially let it freeze (which may effect it's taste/texture). Blah. There are definitely use cases for it and to make it work. Just don't buy into their data, after all, they just want to sell you on the product.

Agreed. In my case, I have no issues with it, I don't boondock, but it is nice not having to be concerned about a live flame when filling up, or having to shut it down in certain states. High altitude doesn't affect it like it did the LP one in our last trailer. It also cools much faster. As long as it continues to work that is.

[root]

Originally Posted by Bhrava

Agreed. In my case, I have no issues with it, I don't boondock, but it is nice not having to be concerned about a live flame when filling up, or having to shut it down in certain states. High altitude doesn't affect it like it did the LP one in our last trailer. It also cools much faster. As long as it continues to work that is.

Oh yeah I still like it, not trying to knock it, other then seal/latch issue I fixed (which given the other common issues in new RV's it's extremely minor). You just need a much beefier supporting solar/battery system for it if boondocking outside of the desert during the summer soltice. Also, the argument could be made its cheaper (short-term) and lighter weight to use LP fridges when boondocking, and makes a lot of sense in the summer when you barely use LP anyways. But if you plan on doing a solar setup anyways the 12v still makes more sense - at least to me.

[Stevemal]

My issue is that I shouldn't have to spend more hundreds of dollars just to use my new camper as expected. Nor should anyone camping near me have to listen to generator all day so can make most of the night with cold food. Never had an issue with a propane fridge and they only use 1/2# per 24 hours. Only had to run the gen for AC and for a few hours in the fall for the heater.

[Stevemal]

Originally Posted by Bhrava

It is. There are no marking inside, nor a tag splainin it. Interesting enough, JTRVN posted a new video on the Furrion

He explains the testing done by Furrion and Jayco. However he didn't mention anything about the off grid setting. Supposed to have a full sun day tomorrow so will give the off gird mode a try and see if it actually will stay cold all night. What I am not sure of is if having stuff inside will be of any benefit or not. I should probably throw a case of water in just to test.

You have to wonder where they get those low amp numbers! The manual and the sticker on the fridge both say 11 amp. If it needs to be turned up short of all the way, there's not a chance of it being cold set on the low settings for so called off grid. Mine runs roughly 50% of the time, thus using about 132 amp hours in a day. That's a lot of battery & solar.

[Bhrava]

Originally Posted by Stevemal

You have to wonder where they get those low amp numbers! The manual and the sticker on the fridge both say 11 amp. If it needs to be turned up short of all the way, there's not a chance of it being cold set on the low settings for so called off grid. Mine runs roughly 50% of the time, thus using about 132 amp hours in a day. That's a lot of battery & solar.

Pretty sure that is start up amps, running amps will be much lower. I have a power watchdog with bluetooth and can monitor amp and watt draw with it. When I turn the AC on, it spikes up to 15 amps, then settles down to 4 after that, so I'm fairly sure the same will be with the 12v reefer, 11 amp startup, then settle down to the 2-3 running amps they mention. Only way to know for sure of course is to hook an ammeter into the circuit.

[Stevemal]

Originally Posted by Bhrava

Pretty sure that is start up amps, running amps will be much lower. I have a power watchdog with bluetooth and can monitor amp and watt draw with it. When I turn the AC on, it spikes up to 15 amps, then settles down to 4 after that, so I'm fairly sure the same will be with the 12v reefer, 11 amp startup, then settle down to the 2-3 running amps they mention. Only way to know for sure of course is to hook an ammeter into the circuit.

I will have to check actual draw when I get the camper back next week. However on a couple amps shouldn't have drawn a fully charged battery down to 11.8 volts in 9 hours.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by root

... You just need a much beefier supporting solar/battery system for it if boondocking outside of the desert during the summer soltice. ...

You forgot "during a cold snap".

[ScottBrownstein]

Furrion is a manufacturer who tailors appliances for RV manufacturers needs. This is pretty simple. They build a DC compressor reefer that does not require the installation and cost of an inverter and costs far less than an adsorption unit. Perfect for lowering manufacturing cost on a low priced RV. Probably doesn't make sense to the eventual purchaser, but makes sense to the builder. It's a DC driven "dorm refrigerator" that won't work very long without being plugged in to shore power...but being DC driven...it can be said to meet the non shore power requirements for those who imagine boondocking in beautiful natural settings. Caveat Emptor.

[Stevemal]

Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein

Furrion is a manufacturer who tailors appliances for RV manufacturers needs. This is pretty simple. They build a DC compressor reefer that does not require the installation and cost of an inverter and costs far less than an adsorption unit. Perfect for lowering manufacturing cost on a low priced RV. Probably doesn't make sense to the eventual purchaser, but makes sense to the builder. It's a DC driven "dorm refrigerator" that won't work very long without being plugged in to shore power...but being DC driven...it can be said to meet the non shore power requirements for those who imagine boondocking in beautiful natural settings. Caveat Emptor.

This is obviously true. However, what recourse does the unsuspecting purchaser have when they find out they can only boondock overnight as the battery will be discharged by morning and the water only lasts a day. The salesperson knew we only dry camp and should not have sold us this TT. I'm so disgusted ans now stuck with a unit I can't realistically use for my purpose. Forest River should be ashamed of such an inferior product.

[ScottBrownstein]

Originally Posted by Stevemal

This is obviously true. However, what recourse does the unsuspecting purchaser have when they find out they can only boondock overnight as the battery will be discharged by morning and the water only lasts a day. The salesperson knew we only dry camp and should not have sold us this TT. I'm so disgusted ans now stuck with a unit I can't realistically use for my purpose. Forest River should be ashamed of such an inferior product.

I understand your issue, however, I think that you really need to consider how you are using your RV when dry camping. My 36 foot class A only has 10 gallons more fresh water than yours. You have to learn to manage your consumption. I normally go out on the road with only 1/2 to 2/3 tank of fresh water for weight management reasons. Electric pumps and family members who run a lot of water can be a problem when dry camping. I turn off the pump and only switch it on when needed. We often flush the toilet with a Solo cup to conserve water.

Once you get used to it you will be fine. Remember, if you had more water then the black and grey tanks would be the next problem....

[Comanchecreek]

Still not convinced that these are a legitimate option. May be cheaper initially than a gas fridge, but when you add in the cost of solar and batteries required to even begin to think you can boondock for more than overnight, the cost goes through the roof. I just finished a camp of 6 days without ever even running low on juice. Fridge worked great, and with small solar assist kept the batteries pumping 12.9 volts the whole time. I'm glad this Thread is out there, because I will never consider owning an RV with a 12 volt fridge, any more than I would consider a residential fridge given my style of camping. I can understand the residential fridge for the people that only use full hookups. I guess the 12 volters fall into that same category, but can't see it at all for the booney's. It's definitely not an across the board replacement. That's certainly what these discussions are for.

[JSP]

Same fridge, same problem. It never worked from the day I brought it home.


I packed the fridge with ice and got the temp down to 36 F and it still wouldn't shut off. Currently waiting for dealer to install a new refrigerator.


I bought this knowing exactly what I was getting myself into. I dry camp for 2 weeks every summer near the end of July. The rest of my trips I have shore power. I figured if I could limp through 2 weeks I'd be fine and have this big fridge on shore power.






It wasn't working on this trip but I still tried to experiment. Unknown factory battery.. 2000w invet gen.. and 100w of the cheapo harbor freight solar panels. My roof top 50w panel is also dead.


So I spent a day running my fridge full blast for 1 hour...then turned it off for 1 hour. It was a sunny day and I was getting 14.5 volts and 4.8 amps from the panels from about 10:30 am until just after 2 pm ( wooded site and would have need a very long cord to get more). I've always run the generator in the afternoon during the 3 hour window we are allowed. Started the test around 9am and finished at 7pm. The battery was fully charged when I shut everything off.


So under those circumstance I think I could make it just fine if the cycle time is no more than 50%. I think I could make it for a weekend with just the 100w panels if I had full sun. Not sure if just 3 hours of gen time would be enough. And I have no idea what my battery would look like after 13 hours before I could charge it again.


Also I found out the sun angle moves pretty quick.. adjusting the panels would get old pretty quick.

[Stevemal]

Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein

I understand your issue, however, I think that you really need to consider how you are using your RV when dry camping. My 36 foot class A only has 10 gallons more fresh water than yours. You have to learn to manage your consumption. I normally go out on the road with only 1/2 to 2/3 tank of fresh water for weight management reasons. Electric pumps and family members who run a lot of water can be a problem when dry camping. I turn off the pump and only switch it on when needed. We often flush the toilet with a Solo cup to conserve water.

Once you get used to it you will be fine. Remember, if you had more water then the black and grey tanks would be the next problem....

Scott-Thank you for your input. We've been dry camping for years and are good at water conservation. Our old camper only held 30 gal. compared to our new one with 40. We always came home and had water to dump. and the grey/black tanks would be about 3/4 full. I found I only have about 10-15 gal. usable with the new unit and neither of the other tanks even registered when we ran out of water. We drained 10 15 gals. when we got home that the pump doesn't seem to access.

[Stevemal]

Originally Posted by Comanchecreek

Still not convinced that these are a legitimate option. May be cheaper initially than a gas fridge, but when you add in the cost of solar and batteries required to even begin to think you can boondock for more than overnight, the cost goes through the roof. I just finished a camp of 6 days without ever even running low on juice. Fridge worked great, and with small solar assist kept the batteries pumping 12.9 volts the whole time. I'm glad this Thread is out there, because I will never consider owning an RV with a 12 volt fridge, any more than I would consider a residential fridge given my style of camping. I can understand the residential fridge for the people that only use full hookups. I guess the 12 volters fall into that same category, but can't see it at all for the booney's. It's definitely not an across the board replacement. That's certainly what these discussions are for.

Thank you for your understanding, we only dry camp and usually for 3-4 days. Now I have to carry extra water jugs and gas and listen to the genny for most of the day just to get the fridge thru the night. We aren't even in the unit during the day except for lunch and then to sleep which is difficult listening to the fridge all night. The ice cream was wicked frozen however! -17 below in the freezer to average 39 in the box.

[Stevemal]

Originally Posted by JSP

Same fridge, same problem. It never worked from the day I brought it home.


I packed the fridge with ice and got the temp down to 36 F and it still wouldn't shut off. Currently waiting for dealer to install a new refrigerator.


I bought this knowing exactly what I was getting myself into. I dry camp for 2 weeks every summer near the end of July. The rest of my trips I have shore power. I figured if I could limp through 2 weeks I'd be fine and have this big fridge on shore power.






It wasn't working on this trip but I still tried to experiment. Unknown factory battery.. 2000w invet gen.. and 100w of the cheapo harbor freight solar panels. My roof top 50w panel is also dead.


So I spent a day running my fridge full blast for 1 hour...then turned it off for 1 hour. It was a sunny day and I was getting 14.5 volts and 4.8 amps from the panels from about 10:30 am until just after 2 pm ( wooded site and would have need a very long cord to get more). I've always run the generator in the afternoon during the 3 hour window we are allowed. Started the test around 9am and finished at 7pm. The battery was fully charged when I shut everything off.


So under those circumstance I think I could make it just fine if the cycle time is no more than 50%. I think I could make it for a weekend with just the 100w panels if I had full sun. Not sure if just 3 hours of gen time would be enough. And I have no idea what my battery would look like after 13 hours before I could charge it again.


Also I found out the sun angle moves pretty quick.. adjusting the panels would get old pretty quick.

Mine actually shuts off after an hour or so, but then back on in another hour. The differential is about 10 degrees. So, therefore everything has warmed up in there and has to be re-cooled. We ran it empty for 24 hours on shore power as the book said and cooled everything in our home fridge first to 36 deg. We got 9 hours ion a fully charged battery and it was down to 11.8 volt. It won't last long that way. Wish they had a lemon law for campers. I'm up to a list of 19 items defective and it's brand new. The dealer says this is not unusual and even high end TTs are the same. No quality in workmanship anymore. They probably are all just as bad, but this will be my first & last Forest River product. Hopefully it will last until spring to trade it in. Just don't know what to try next. I'm at my wits end. This was a big expense for us at this time of life.

[ScottBrownstein]

Originally Posted by Stevemal

Scott-Thank you for your input. We've been dry camping for years and are good at water conservation. Our old camper only held 30 gal. compared to our new one with 40. We always came home and had water to dump. and the grey/black tanks would be about 3/4 full. I found I only have about 10-15 gal. usable with the new unit and neither of the other tanks even registered when we ran out of water. We drained 10 15 gals. when we got home that the pump doesn't seem to access.

OK, there is your problem. Need to look at the pump lift connection and find out why the lower part of the tank is inaccessible.

[JSP]

Originally Posted by Stevemal

Mine actually shuts off after an hour or so, but then back on in another hour. The differential is about 10 degrees. So, therefore everything has warmed up in there and has to be re-cooled. We ran it empty for 24 hours on shore power as the book said and cooled everything in our home fridge first to 36 deg. We got 9 hours ion a fully charged battery and it was down to 11.8 volt. It won't last long that way. Wish they had a lemon law for campers. I'm up to a list of 19 items defective and it's brand new. The dealer says this is not unusual and even high end TTs are the same. No quality in workmanship anymore. They probably are all just as bad, but this will be my first & last Forest River product. Hopefully it will last until spring to trade it in. Just don't know what to try next. I'm at my wits end. This was a big expense for us at this time of life.

My brother bought a Coleman this year around same time I did. So this trip was supposed to be a show off your new camper trip.


I had a broken radio, broken solar panel ( and fried charge controller ) and a broken fridge. Everything on his worked. The design of his was really strange though. He had a single window on the front side of his camper.. maybe 15 inches square. The rest of the front had all his vents for appliances. Would drive me crazy not being able to see into my campsite. His water heater also sounded like a jet engine. I could hear it from my site when it came on... BUT! He hasn't had a single issue with his. Don't know what the reputation of Coleman campers are.


I bought mine in May and I am still waiting on warranty authorization.. then I have to wait for parts. I'm thinking my first camping season is going to be with a nonfunctional camper.