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Old 05-16-2024, 09:42 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by tfmdgm View Post
I carry a 2 ft carpenter's level. This is approx. 1/4 of the trailer width. Bring a few 1/4" thick blocks. Each 1/4" block under the end of your level equals 1" across the trailer.
Works great for me over the years.
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Old 05-16-2024, 09:52 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Touch racing View Post
I use Level Mate PRO. It tells me in inches how far the camper is off from level.
I also have the LevelMate Pro. It has been a game changer setting up!
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Old 05-16-2024, 11:15 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Aussieguy View Post



solution...
I have a 2 foot spirit level... constructed like a I beam
Laid the level on it's face to make a H instead...... then put the phone on the level
The H shape supports the phone more evenly with no rocking
The length of the level evens out the trailer surface

NOW I get repeatable measurements ...
-----------------------------------------------------------------
PS ... yes I know can buy a digital level but this will work for now.
/Me: = Tightwad
If you have a level, why not just use that? Why put an Iphone on top of a level?
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Old 05-17-2024, 05:40 AM   #24
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Level mate pro and leveling wedge, fast and simple.
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Old 05-17-2024, 06:03 AM   #25
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Count me in the LevelMate Pro and cam levelers camp.

Basically do it all from the driver's seat.
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Old 05-17-2024, 06:16 AM   #26
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Count me in the LevelMate Pro and cam levelers camp.

Basically do it all from the driver's seat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobAmy View Post
Level mate pro and leveling wedge, fast and simple.
Once you find out how easy they are to use in unison it is like people having hip replacements. Everyone I have ever talked to said they should have done it earlier. For some reason knee replacement responses are not quite as positive.
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Old 05-17-2024, 07:26 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Clffhnger View Post
If you have a level, why not just use that? Why put an Iphone on top of a level?
Iphone actually tells me how many degrees I am out of level
from that ... is an easy MATH calculation 1 degree = 1.5 inches


BUT.... my Iphone ... is NOT flat and can give poor inconsistant readings

Putting it on the level
a) fixes the HIGH spots on the phone problems
If I put my phone on a flat surface it ROCKS and gives me different readings

Putting it on the H shape of the level.... supports the phone so it stops the rocking

b) The level ALSO evens out and highs and lows in the trailer floor OR counter top.. gives a better average reading... since the phone is so SMALL any slight low/high spot will affect the reading.


Given enough time..... I may be able to just look at the level and guesstimate how much lift I need

BUT I got the phone .. it has the app and I now know it's limitations.

Have always carried the level... never really needed to really worry about leveling the trailer at good campgrounds... until started boondocking and stopping in places that are pretty uneven.
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Old 05-17-2024, 09:36 AM   #28
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eyeball it. This discussion reminds me of the time asked a cowboy at the shipping corrals how they count cattle coming through a gate. "Count all of the feet and tails and divide by five."
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Old 05-17-2024, 04:20 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussieguy View Post
My last trip ... where we did all moochdocking and boondocking the places we stopped came with some interesting angles for parking...
<CLIP>
/Me: = Tightwad
Here's a simple one that I use:
Buy a "Line level" like this ==> Line Level
  • Get a 15 foot piece of string (I prefer braided nylon Mason's line) to hang the level from. You'll also need an assistant or a way to hold the line on the far side of the trailer. I use the magnetic blocks that hold my doors of my front pass through opening.
  • When you're parked where you want, stretch the string/line across the front (or back) of your unit. On my trailer, there is a horizontal molding that I use (you may need to put some marks/tape on your unit if it doesn't have a horizontal molding/striping/...).
  • Raise the LOW end of the string/line above this molding (or whatever horizontal line you're using on your unit) until the line level shows a centered bubble. The height from your string/line to the horizontal line on your unit is the amount of "lift" you need to add to that side of your unit to level it.
  • Pull out your 2x8 "blocks" or whatever you use for leveling to match the "lift needed" and place them next to the tire(s) you're lifting (so you know where you were measuring).
  • Pull the unit forward (or back) so that the tires clear the blocks that you placed above.
  • Slide the blocks straight into where the tire(s) was when you measured.
  • Roll unit back onto the blocks.
Not exact, but close enough for "camping".
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Old 05-17-2024, 04:37 PM   #30
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The best investment we made was buying a LevelMate Pro. We can now level the camper in minutes as it tells us not only front and rear but also side to side exactly how far up or down we need to go to be exactly level.

https://technorv.com/collections/leveling
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Old 05-17-2024, 04:51 PM   #31
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Another vote for LevelMate Pro and Anderson curved leveling blocks. We could level
our double axle TT in about 2-3 minutes and didn't have to do any math.
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Old 05-17-2024, 04:58 PM   #32
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This thread is amusing. I'm sure that some of the multi-axle rigs and 5-ers can be complicated to get positioned. But our 22 ft r-pod doesn't take much - string levels, laser levels, wireless technology, a bit of trigonometry... all is a bit overblown for our needs.

Once I back into a site it takes all of 30 seconds to plop down a 12" magnetic bubble level on the A-frame and decide if I need to stick the cam ramp under one wheel or the other, and then another 30 seconds to back onto the ramp, maybe taking two shots to get it right. Leveling front-back is just part of the unhitching process, and you can't do that from the drivers seat. Same mag level on the A-frame while running the hitch jack is about as simple as it gets...
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Old 05-17-2024, 07:13 PM   #33
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I've built houses with a plumb bob, framing square and a folding carpenters rule. But when innovation and technology throw the LM Pro and Andy curved blocks at me...well...Duh.
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Old 06-09-2024, 01:38 PM   #34
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Leveling boards

I laminated (glued & screwed) 4 pieces of 3/4" plywood. just under 3" high x 8"x24". To add height I grab a piece of fire wood to put under. If I need them steeper I flip them over.Click image for larger version

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Old 06-09-2024, 03:09 PM   #35
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The most difficult site I have been in had me needing two boards under the curb side tires. but had a tree close the door and a power pole on the slide side so that I only had a 6" window to not have a tree in the doorway or slide interference.
I had to move the boards a couple times to be on the boards and centered between obstacles. It did not help that we pulled in right at sundown.

I normally use a 2' level on the floor of the TT but if I wanted a level that tells me how many boards the make a slope level. it dials the vial to tell how much slope you have. they are mostly sold to plumbers, roofers, and welders. Or you can use 1/4" blocks on a 2' level to simulate how many boards are needed. DR
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Old 06-09-2024, 03:12 PM   #36
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I use Anderson levelers and level mate pro that way I can just back up the truck and my phone tells me when its level from inside the truck
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Old 06-09-2024, 03:29 PM   #37
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Trigonometry was only needed once .... to work out mathematically what one degree of angle is for an 8 foot span = 1.5 inches (well, close enough to it)...

this is true for just about every trailer , if yours is 8 foot wide and has a 1 degree list to the left you need a 1.5 inch lift

Once I knew the answer was 1.5 inches , all I need to do NOW is :
1) put my phone down using my already installed free level APP
measure degrees left/right to give me a clue how high i need to go.
2) move trailer forward put some boards down
I'm only going to carry/use 1.5" boards ..... so near enough is good enough
the only math I am going to is:
1 deg = 1 board
2 deg = 2 boards
3 deg = 3 boards
4 deg = 3 boards because that's all I got!
5 degrees get a different site.

3) then reverse back

4) use tongue jack for front/back level ..........after truck is disconnected

-----------------------------------------------------------
for accuracy
the back of MY phone is not level (phone camera lens was the culprit)
hence placing phone into the level accounts for the high spots
So ...didn't have to buy a new phone !
------------------------------------------------------------------------

I could buy a bubble level, or a digital level, or the $150 app + sensor thingy
Instead...... I am cheap and worked out an easy less than 1 minute way to determine how high I need to raise a side.


have now setup at two places since working out this incredibly complicated formula.


all I bought was the treated 2 x 6 that I needed to DO the actual leveling
cost me about $15 at Lowes ...

my preference is to use boards , I don't like them curved things especially in soft, sandy locations found almost every where in Florida....
----------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm sure in time would get faster / better at gauging a site's levelness

but It only takes about 60 seconds to get the phone out ....and open the app I got.
and it's FREEEEEEEE.


PS ... Mrs AG is extremely happy now that the sliding door to toilet stays shut!
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Old 06-16-2024, 10:16 AM   #38
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Thanks for this thread, Aussieguy! It confirms that Iím not so out dated with treated 2x8s and Hopkinís level bubbles. But also learned a few helpful tips like beveling the board edges and the use of dowels.

The nice thing about the Hopkins is they are large enough to see in my side mirror with reader glasses-accomplishing the same thing as the digital leveling process. The scale also indicate how many boards I need. Although kind of wing it-1 board for half bubble, 2 board full bubble and if Iím 1/4 bubble off itís good.

I still like the wood blocks because I fear rolling off the backside of an Andersen style jack and getting jammed up. I also find, for my trailer with the Dexter axle, that I can use shorter 18Ē boards for the rear tire only to accomplish level-then chock opposite side tires.
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Old 06-16-2024, 11:19 AM   #39
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I use a Small Torpedo Level placed on the back of my TT bumper. 1/8" graduations equal 1" low. I carry 3/4" rubber mats and 1 1/2" pressure treated boards, gets me close enough. Need to compensate for slide.
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Old 06-16-2024, 11:31 AM   #40
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I used to have 2x8 treated lumber but had some split. That is why I laminated the plywood, much stronger & more stable. I too use a small torpedo level on the kitchen counter top.
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