Mystery Tools (and a missing tool)

[RedLdr1]

Originally Posted by C36hull268

Thanks again. Signature picture works now, but profile picture does not.

I really had to play around with Photoshop to get my Profile picture to work.

Setting it to the size of 300 by 300 pixels made it exceed the 161.7 KB file size limit. If I remember correctly I ended up resizing, file size wise, much smaller than than the 161.7KB, saving it, and then expanding it back out to near the 300 X 300 limit. I think I used 280 X 280 pixels. I changed desk top computers since then so I'll have to rummage around for the file...

Same issues with the Avatar picture. I use the same avatar on another forum, that uses the same software, with the same size restrictions, and I had to tweak it here as well. I'm a Mod on that forum so maybe I can get away with more...

[C36hull268]

Just tried to fit cardboard mock up - it seems to fit, but until I'll have it installed I won't be sure.

[C36hull268]

Originally Posted by RedLdr1

Up according to Ford. But that is dumb as dirt as you can't easily check the tires air pressure.... You might want to add a flexible valve extender.

RedLdr1, The Anchor Plate has to be attached to the rim with two M12X1.75 nuts from the side of the rim opposite to the one where the nipple is. (Even in some places it says directly opposite. I tried – if it’s done this way the Anchor Plate will hit the chassis’ bracket and carrier conduit’s end fitting before the wheel is lifted in place and you’ll end up with the wheel not pulled tight against the frame, but freely swinging. Also Anchor Plate is too long and does not fit inside of that offset flat to the rim’s surface.) So in case with dual rear wheels’ rims that have big offset that offset should be down. And the wheel should be mounted with the nipple down. As you see on the pictures the Anchor Plate has a recess to fit the rim’s profile. The Anchor Plate is common for all Ford Transit models, so I believe the wheel should be hung with offset down no matter if it’s dual wheel rim or not, but that’s my assumption. In case of RV chassis I do not think a single wheels on the rear axle are used in any Transit based RV model.

[hummelr]

C36hull268 - How did you end up running the lift cable? Through the outside wall? Also, what carrier did you end up ordering? I am also having no luck getting info from Forest River. I have a 2018 Freelander Micro on a Ford Transit 350 cutaway

[C36hull268]

There is only one way you can run that cable. Because it has certain length it can be installed only one way, so you have no choice. Unfortunately I cannot find the part number for that carrier, but it's Ford's standard carrier for cutaway model. In addition to the carrier you'll need (as I remember couple) special nuts (they expand when you drive a male thread in). So you push that nut in the hex hole in the frame and thread the male member in it keeping the nut against the wall of the frame member. After that the hut is kept there because the opposite end of the nut expended and hex hole prevents it from rotation. I was thinking to make an access hole in the outside wall, but ended up buying 20" long 1/2" square extension and use my socket driver and I can reach to lift and lower the spare through the rear wheel opening in the wall, even it's not quit perpendicular, but close enough to work just fine. Not very convenient, but considering how often it needs to be done it's suitable for me.


Good luck.

[hummelr]

Thanks! After I asked this question, I found this forum: http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...rv-145062.html

[C36hull268]

That's right. I just could not find it. I described it there the best way I could. Last summer we made a 15000 miles trip to Yukon, NWT, and Alaska with spare in our "basement". That was not fun as that 70 lb spare was moving around there, even I tried to tie it down. Also, the double tray in that "basement" was not sealed, so all the dust from the road was coming in. When I got back home I removed that one piece plastic double tray and separated in two. I sealed each one with a sealing rubber profile from McMaster Carr when I put those now two trays back in. Also I added some mounting screws. No dust in my basement now, tested it in northeast Minnesota last fall and this summer. Now I'm making some mud flaps to cover the waste water tanks, mainly their sensors and drain valves. When traveling on dirt road in rain it all gets covered with mud, at that point sensors stop working. Also you need to wash off all that mud from the valves if you need to drain the waste water. In addition gravel that gets thrown by the rear left tires beats those sensors and wiring, so this way it all won't survive long.


Good luck!