Some opinions on levels

[OldCoot]

Me thinks some folks are way too meticulous trying to get a camper perfectly level, but to each his own. My Level Master is close enough for us.

[onetonford]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Use the Level Master big level on the outside so I can see while still in the truck.

Giant Level Master - $26.79

Same unit I have works great as the marks tell how much blocks to add to get level. I also think that if it is close it is good as long as I don't fall out of bed.

[Livin the Life]

Can the Giant Level Master be used on a travel trailer? The question is related to "HOW" would you mount it?
Read in an earlier post it is meant for mounting on a fifth wheel hitch pin area. Which makes sense.
How/where would one attach this to the travel trailer? I see it comes with an optional mounting plate. Is this needed for TT mounting?
The answer to the question is always easy if you know the answer, so, please share so I can have a "DUH" moment.
I am growing weary of buying those cheapo square yellow bubble levels where the bubbles keep disappearing. Time to upgrade and be done with it.
Thanks in advance for your expertise.

[Epat]

I have a stick on right near the hitch where it is flat. When I get it lever there and go inside it seems like the front is still a little high.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Livin the Life

Can the Giant Level Master be used on a travel trailer?...

A pc of alum angle which you might have to open or close to get it level front to back.

[capt104]

The Anderson cam type levelers are great. I have a double axel and use two Andersons. Usually put them on top of a 1x6 piece of trex decking just for a solid surface. The flexibility is great. My only concern is these levelers are a bit narrower than the tread on my tires and I wonder if that can damage them if we're sitting at a site for extended periods of time. Any thoughts?

[onetonford]

Originally Posted by Livin the Life

Can the Giant Level Master be used on a travel trailer? The question is related to "HOW" would you mount it?
Read in an earlier post it is meant for mounting on a fifth wheel hitch pin area. Which makes sense.
How/where would one attach this to the travel trailer? I see it comes with an optional mounting plate. Is this needed for TT mounting?
The answer to the question is always easy if you know the answer, so, please share so I can have a "DUH" moment.
I am growing weary of buying those cheapo square yellow bubble levels where the bubbles keep disappearing. Time to upgrade and be done with it.
Thanks in advance for your expertise.

Here is their description and I have seen some on TT didn't pay attention to how it was mounted thou..

This giant, 11 x 2-3/4 all-in-one RV level provides visual side-to-side and front-to-rear leveling assistance for trailers, fifth wheels and motorhomes. Level Master can be viewed from the drivers seat to help locate the best level location for parking

[TheWolfPaq82]

Originally Posted by jimmoore13

I'm a huge fan of all things Camco, but I like the Hopkins for one simple reason. They have a straight edge on the bottom, and this simplifies lining up the level with the trailer frame. These are disposable items...especially the one on the front of the trailer...because a stone can blow them out in a second. But I keep a couple spares in the camper, and they are very easy to replace without having to level the camper first. https://smile.amazon.com/Hopkins-852...ords=rv+levels
I don't just rely on the sticky tape...I also screw them to the frame.

As for carpenter's levels, they are great, and far more precise, but with a PUP, leveling the trailer typically comes well before the opportunity to throw a level on an inside counter. Plus, the Hopkins levels are more than accurate enough for sink drains, fried eggs on the stove, etc. I rough in side-to-side leveling on my single-axle PUP with my handy Camco wedge. https://smile.amazon.com/Camco-44573...co+rv+leveling My wife monitors side-to-side leveling as I pull the PUP up the wedge, then she throws a wheel chock in to hold things. When I unhitch, my wife monitors the front-to-rear level...on the curb side of the PUP frame as I crank the tongue jack. Once we're roughed in, I use the stabilizer jacks to tweak things a tiny bit, and we're dead center on the bubbles in both directions. (Stabilizer jacks aren't meant for leveling, but they can handle an inch or two of lift with no harm done. I always start with the lowest corner, jack until just beyond level, then snug up the other three corners without throwing the PUP out of level. In my 4th season with no problems.)

One other tip for leveling on more "extreme" slopes. Dig a hole on the uphill side for the tire(s) to drop into. Very effective, and saves a big first step on the stairs. We camp near a lake frequently, and the side slopes can be pretty severe. I use the hole and wedge techniques there.

Our first PU was a Viking 1984, 95lb hitch weight, one pull out bed. To level side to side, I'd grab wheel well and lift, wife would slide 1x6's under tire till level.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Old Hoppy level. Bubble went from 1 to 1 when new. Zero leakage.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Two pics. Level...fluid was fluorescent green a month ago.
Front of trailer...level on pass side and front frame behind bat box...no rocks !

[ProfChuck]

Many years ago, in the previous century:-), I bought a small level called the "Hoppy" that you mount on your trailer near the tongue using screws. It had two levels in it and a circular scale that, when you pulled into a site, you set the bubbles to level and the scale told you how many inches to raise one side or the other to achieve level. I have moved it from trailer to trailer (this is the third one) and it still works perfectly. You just set your trailer to perfectly level and use the adjusting screws to make the bubbles level. After that you just move the circular scale. I have even been able to make it work for our new trailer which has to be leveled (off level) so it is level when the all on one side slide outs are in the out position. It wasn't very expensive, but, it certainly works well, although I haven't seen them in many years. Nice thing is you do everything right from the front of the trailer. No looking around the side to see the forward/back tilt - and the bubbles are still the same green as when I bought it 30+ years ago.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Me thinks some folks are way too meticulous trying to get a camper perfectly level, but to each his own. My Level Master is close enough for us.

ummmm...yeah. I'm with you.
I'm ready to pack up my laser level system and throw it in the camper next time out.

[Cypressloser]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Me thinks some folks are way too meticulous trying to get a camper perfectly level, but to each his own. My Level Master is close enough for us.

Exactly, in a previous life when we didn't have the autolevel I carried a little torpedo level with a magnetic base, it was enough to level the trailer close enough to good enough and nobody ever complained and as long as the bacon stays in the pan who cares.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Originally Posted by Cypressloser

Exactly, in a previous life when we didn't have the autolevel I carried a little torpedo level with a magnetic base, it was enough to level the trailer close enough to good enough and nobody ever complained and as long as the bacon stays in the pan who cares.

Back in day when "Dry Camping or Boondocking" meant....no solar, no 37 12V battery packs, no 250KV generator.

[325BH]

LevelMatePRO

https://www.logicbluetech.com

[grayfox]

Originally Posted by youroo

On the 304 I would just use a 1-2 foot Carpenters level right inside the entrance Door Floor! Youroo!!

X-2 on what youroo said

[emm-dee]

I installed the LevelMatePRO system which Bluetooth connects to the iPhone. Pull in, set the Andersen leveling blocks and watch the screen while riding onto the blocks. One person job and very accurate. I like the display showing I need ½ or ¾ inch up or down.

https://www.logicbluetech.com

[santara]

the most important thing is refig open frezzer door put level both ways
dont trust a counter top as level or even floor

[brandon 2]

We have found that the stick on levelers seem to fade in the sun and can move around in the heat because the glue is soft. We use a bubble level that sits in the cup holder in the cab and also a torpedo level on the counter and in the fridge. The are small and do the best job.


Brandon2
2014 2500TS
Sun Seeker

[mjacxx]

I would like to if anyone has had any luck​ mounting one the large see it from the cab levels on a Surveyor?
The uneven (curved) front end doesn't offer a good flat spot for mounting.