Some opinions on levels

[jjjandj]

I use a hoppy level, back into site, turn level to see how much blocks you need, add blocks, unlock, level front to back. This removes all guess work.

[VA_Camper]

I use a 6 inch torpedo level and stick it on the tongue after I unhook it from the truck.

[TheWolfPaq82]

I have to say...I didn't really think there was that much involved and expected a few different ways to level a trailer...How Wrong I Was !!! There is some really cool and innovative ways that people have come with....Too all of you I say...."Well done folks, well done."

[325BH]

I simply used a four-foot level for years. It's simple and works.

Then I got the LevelMate Pro. It really is cool. It's nice to know how out-of-level you are while sitting in the cab backing up the trailer. You know how many blocks to put under the wheels... then can run the nose up-or-down without leaving the tongue/landing jack.

[dryflycaster]

The longer the level the better is generally the case, but toting a 2' to 4' level around is just one more item that can be a pain to find a good storage space for.

That said I have found that a iPhone app (Free) called dualevel works sufficiently for our needs. There are also other free leveling apps available, try a few and see which one works best for you. The app is self sufficient and operates without the internet I usually place it somewhere on the kitchen sink countertop or even on the floor inside of the entry door. Both are in close proximity to the bedroom and the fridge. It has thus far proven to be more than accurate enough. Best part is you probably already have your phone with you so it's just take it out of your pocket and start the app.

[Decon Blue]

Originally Posted by dryflycaster

The longer the level the better is generally the case, but toting a 2' to 4' level around is just one more item that can be a pain to find a good storage space for.

That said I have found that a iPhone app (Free) called dualevel works sufficiently for our needs. There are also other free leveling apps available, try a few and see which one works best for you. The app is self sufficient and operates without the internet I usually place it somewhere on the kitchen sink countertop or even on the floor inside of the entry door. Both are in close proximity to the bedroom and the fridge. It has thus far proven to be more than accurate enough. Best part is you probably already have your phone with you so it's just take it out of your pocket and start the app.

Yep, works great and always have it handy in the phone.

[DouglasReid]

We have three levels..........1 on the front, one on the rear and one on the left side right near the Landing Gear switch.

When we got the camper we bought the levels, took it home and leveled it front to rear and side to side with a 4' level. We tuck them on, insuring each was dead level too and have not thought about a hand held level since!

We use the front one to determine how level the site is. This will tell us if we need to get out one of our boards to drive one side or the other up onto.

We use the side one to level the camper front and rear after disconnecting from truck.

We use the rear one just for our own edification that the rear is level too.

[windsurfdog]

+2^^ minus the rear level. I still carry a 3' level (which was used to level the trailer before mounting the front/side levels) with me but haven't used it since mounting the levels.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Butch Wilson

If the eggs stay on the griddle I'm good ! It's the little things that will drive you crazy !

In the past I've a ton of time leveling. I'd get the refrigerator level (using a bullseye bubble in the freezer) and water would accumulate in the corner of the sink. I'd level the floor and water would accumulate in one end of the tub.

I now just use a torpedo level at the tongue. Left/Right first with the boards and then up down on the jack for fore/aft.

The refrigerator/freezer have never quit on me when following that method.

As for the bacon? It's fine if the fat drains to one side while cooking. Less to drain before eating.

[emm-dee]

For those who have the LevelMatePro: The company has just started shipping the new unit which has an on/off switch to save battery life. If you send a copy of your original sales receipt and $95 they will send you a new unit. Best thing is you can keep your original device.

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by dryflycaster

The longer the level the better is generally the case, but toting a 2' to 4' level around is just one more item that can be a pain to find a good storage space for.

That said I have found that a iPhone app (Free) called dualevel works sufficiently for our needs.

<<snip>>

The Hopkins Graduated Levels are as precise as the level you use to level the camper before applying the Hopkins levels to the frame. If you get the camper precisely level, using a good 4' framing level on a hard surface, you can then apply the Hopkins levels to the frame with the bubbles dead center. Use the double-sided tape to fix them temporarily, then drill and screw. Ideally, the lower edge of the Hopkins level will be precisely aligned with the bottom of the RV frame or mounting area, and this will increase confidence when installing replacements (if needed). From this point on, the Hopkins levels are a virtual extension of the 4' framing level used to setup the camper in the first place.

I like the concept of a phone app, but, depending on how you level your RV...inside or outside...it might be difficult to view the app on the screen.
On any modest travel trailer (without hydraulic leveling), leveling is done from outside.
With the Hopkins levels, I can back onto my stepped leveling wedge (or blocks or Anderson leveling wedge) while my wife safely watches the bubble on the front of the trailer from the side of my TV. When it's close, she'll ask me to stop, step in closer, and then instruct me to provide more or less lift on the downhill axle(s). Once level side-to-side on the wedge (and sometimes with a hole for the uphill axle(s)), we chock the wheels, unhook, and then level front-to-rear with the tongue jack (or landing jacks on a fiver). She watches the bubble on the Hopkins and I crank.

It's VERY fast and VERY precise so long as the Hopkins levels are installed on a precisely level trailer to begin with. No 4' levels or apps needed.

I do this alone when I park after a trip. I can see the side-to-side level as I maneuver the trailer with a tongue dolly. I have a shallow drainage swale I must straddle, and I know when I'm in the right place because the trailer is level side-to-side. Then the fore-and-aft leveling requires a bit of running back and forth from the tongue jack to view the Hopkins on the side of the frame. That takes all of about 30 seconds or so.

Using those Hopkins levels, my sinks drain completely, the fridge works perfectly, and setup is a no-brainer.

That's my 2 cents...and about all it's worth.

[emm-dee]

Originally Posted by jimmoore13

The Hopkins Graduated Levels are as precise as the level you use to level the camper before applying the Hopkins levels to the frame. If you get the camper precisely level, using a good 4' framing level on a hard surface, you can then apply the Hopkins levels to the frame with the bubbles dead center. Use the double-sided tape to fix them temporarily, then drill and screw. Ideally, the lower edge of the Hopkins level will be precisely aligned with the bottom of the RV frame or mounting area, and this will increase confidence when installing replacements (if needed). From this point on, the Hopkins levels are a virtual extension of the 4' framing level used to setup the camper in the first place.

I like the concept of a phone app, but, depending on how you level your RV...inside or outside...it might be difficult to view the app on the screen.
On any modest travel trailer (without hydraulic leveling), leveling is done from outside.
With the Hopkins levels, I can back onto my stepped leveling wedge (or blocks or Anderson leveling wedge) while my wife safely watches the bubble on the front of the trailer from the side of my TV. When it's close, she'll ask me to stop, step in closer, and then instruct me to provide more or less lift on the downhill axle(s). Once level side-to-side on the wedge (and sometimes with a hole for the uphill axle(s)), we chock the wheels, unhook, and then level front-to-rear with the tongue jack (or landing jacks on a fiver). She watches the bubble on the Hopkins and I crank.

It's VERY fast and VERY precise so long as the Hopkins levels are installed on a precisely level trailer to begin with. No 4' levels or apps needed.

I do this alone when I park after a trip. I can see the side-to-side level as I maneuver the trailer with a tongue dolly. I have a shallow drainage swale I must straddle, and I know when I'm in the right place because the trailer is level side-to-side. Then the fore-and-aft leveling requires a bit of running back and forth from the tongue jack to view the Hopkins on the side of the frame. That takes all of about 30 seconds or so.

Using those Hopkins levels, my sinks drain completely, the fridge works perfectly, and setup is a no-brainer.

That's my 2 cents...and about all it's worth.

The phone app is always easy to see. I set mine on the truck dash and watch the leveling amount required until it says "0" as I move the trailer. To level on the longitudinal axis I just hold the iPhone or iPad in my hand as the tongue jack operates.

[Slpsld55]

I've been using the same 3 foot carpenter level for about 15 years. This is our third Rockwood trailer. Rockwood puts a rail strip on the side of everyone of their campers on curb side. I use the top of the rail to check level front to back. And rear bumper for checking side to side level. Never fails and never have to go inside until all is handled outside. We use the rail to hang a 3 burner stove and/or BBQ grill. Both have access to propane from the trailers source.

[cbpierce69]

Just bought the hoppy level - thanks!

[ProfChuck]

You will like it. Glad to hear you can still get them.