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10-21-2018, 06:32 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 79
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Stabilizing a 40CCK that will never move again.
Hi all,
1st full week in the new cottage and loving it. I've noticed there is some movement when walking around. It has 8 stabilizing jacks that were extended 20 inches in back and 27 in front. I've added concrete blocks to the back to reduce the jacks extension and took up the slack with a half turn of the jack. I need more blocks for the rest. In the mean time will adding or letting air out of the tires help?
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10-21-2018, 07:13 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 10,833
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No,
Leave the air pressure at proper level.
Get a 4 screw type jacks and stabilize on the frame right at the axles. Or jack up and block and shim at these spots. I did this with my 40 ft park model. Worked really well.
__________________
B and B
2022 Venture RV SportTrek STT 302 VRB Travel Trailer
2018 Heartland Landmark 365 Louisville 5th Wheel
2015 Heartland Bighorn 5th Wheel
2013 FR Rockwood 8289WS 5th Wheel
2012 FR Rockwood 2703 SS Travel Trailer
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10-21-2018, 07:21 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: SE Arizona's Gila Vally
Posts: 1,509
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Welcome to trailer life. Chock it and block it all you can and you will still notice a little wiggle.
__________________
2016 RAM 1500 - 2016 Keystone Laredo 265SRK
The road goes on forever and the party never ends.
Illegitimum non carborundum
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10-21-2018, 07:42 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,560
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If it's truly never moving again, remove the tires and put the frame on bricks like you would a mobile home.
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Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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10-21-2018, 07:47 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Battle Creek
Posts: 108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMWildcat
If it's truly never moving again, remove the tires and put the frame on bricks like you would a mobile home.
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Yep. You might want to put tie downs on it also.
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10-22-2018, 09:45 AM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Northen IL
Posts: 8,317
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Forget the stabilizers and just stack some cinder blocks directly up to the frame. One in each corner of the trailer and then one directly in front of and behind each tire on each side. You can use wood shims to tighten them up.
This is what mine look like:
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10-22-2018, 09:57 AM
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#7
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,143
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Yep... if it's never going to move, block it on the frame (at various points) with blocking piers.
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2024 Ford F-Series SCREW•7.3L•4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA
Days Camped ☼ '19=118 ☼ '20=116 ☼ '21=123 ☼ '22=134 ☼ '23=118☼ '24=90
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10-22-2018, 01:36 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Dunn, NC
Posts: 1,199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwritecode
Forget the stabilizers and just stack some cinder blocks directly up to the frame. One in each corner of the trailer and then one directly in front of and behind each tire on each side. You can use wood shims to tighten them up.
This is what mine look like:
Attachment 189740
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The “hollow” area should bd vertical for most compressioon strength. I would resrrange all of them.
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10-22-2018, 01:55 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMWildcat
If it's truly never moving again, remove the tires and put the frame on bricks like you would a mobile home.
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You do realize that once you make it like a mobile home the Tornado risk in the area will go up 1,000 percent. Darn things either cause Tornado's or attract them just like lightning to a lightning rod
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"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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10-22-2018, 02:02 PM
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#10
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdqparalegal1
The “hollow” area should bd vertical for most compressioon strength. I would resrrange all of them.
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You are correct... when the block is positioned vertically (with the hollow up/down) it has more compression strength... however... on soft soil/stone/shale... such as when using cement blocks for trailer piers as depicted in the photo, the preferred method is to lay the blocks horizontally to get the most surface area and avoid the block sinking in the soil/shale.
Yes. you could dig a trench and pour a footer and use the blocks in their intended manner but lets face it... we are not trying to hold up the Empire State Building here. The blocks are plenty strong enough for this purpose whatever direction you lay them.
You'll also notice in the picture provided, the wheel and tires are still on the trailer and touching the ground. Even if the blocks crumbled, the trailer isn't going anywhere. The piers are simply taking the bounce out of the floor.
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2024 Ford F-Series SCREW•7.3L•4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA
Days Camped ☼ '19=118 ☼ '20=116 ☼ '21=123 ☼ '22=134 ☼ '23=118☼ '24=90
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10-22-2018, 02:14 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdqparalegal1
The “hollow” area should bd vertical for most compressioon strength. I would resrrange all of them.
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I've seen MANY failures when using block for dunnage stacked
on their side.
Holes up always.
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10-22-2018, 02:26 PM
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#12
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Northen IL
Posts: 8,317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker
You are correct... when the block is positioned vertically (with the hollow up/down) it has more compression strength... however... on soft soil/stone/shale... such as when using cement blocks for trailer piers as depicted in the photo, the preferred method is to lay the blocks horizontally to get the most surface area and avoid the block sinking in the soil/shale.
Yes. you could dig a trench and pour a footer and use the blocks in their intended manner but lets face it... we are not trying to hold up the Empire State Building here. The blocks are plenty strong enough for this purpose whatever direction you lay them.
You'll also notice in the picture provided, the wheel and tires are still on the trailer and touching the ground. Even if the blocks crumbled, the trailer isn't going anywhere. The piers are simply taking the bounce out of the floor.
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10-22-2018, 02:55 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Full-Time RVer
Posts: 28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwritecode
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I put a 2X10 under the tires, stacked solid concrete slabs under each of my Cottage's 8 stabilizer jacks, used a 6 foot level to get it all perfect, then applied 10 foot pounds of torque to each jack, covered the tires and it has remained steady for 2 years so far.
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10-22-2018, 03:23 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Port Charlotte Fl/Hinsdale Ma
Posts: 4,823
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Place a 2 x 8 pt under each tire. Put screw jacks in front and rear of the springs. Jack it up to get the weight off the tires. Shore it up tight using cement blocks with the holes up and down. Let about 1/2 the air out of the tires so they stay on the rims. It will be rock solid. the idea is to get the weight onto the jacks and blocks and off the springs.
jack it up to get some weight off the tires and springs. tighten up the stablizers.
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10-22-2018, 04:11 PM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 41
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Use enough piers and you can get it almost rock solid. Shim all piers tightly. Mine is solid without reducing tire pressure.
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10-26-2018, 11:35 AM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 79
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Great info all. Thanks very much =)
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