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Old 10-30-2018, 07:46 PM   #101
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Storage solution

I have the ultimate solution for WDH bar storage. This is what i did! I bought a fifth wheel.
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Old 10-30-2018, 08:01 PM   #102
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Originally Posted by wanderer26 View Post
I have the ultimate solution for WDH bar storage. This is what i did! I bought a fifth wheel.
I solved the problem also by buying a new Tiffin Diesel Pusher! OOPs I forgot this is a Forrest RiverForum.

Jack
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Old 10-31-2018, 12:49 AM   #103
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Mine are dry as a bone. Lay them on the floor in the trailer entry on two short 2x4s. I hit the hitch end of the bar pivots with WD40 at hitch up, and every day of traveling. Happy as a clam.
I ruined too many shirts and pants when I used grease
My 2 cents.
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Old 10-31-2018, 06:50 AM   #104
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There is NO GREASE on my E-4 Bars. I only grease the knuckle contact points where ROCKFORDROO's illustration shows. I use these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 on the L Bracket. I have little to NO NOISE maneuvering around. I store the bars inside the front compartment.

It's not a big deal really and don't waste a ton of bandwidth on it.

Marty
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Old 10-31-2018, 08:20 AM   #105
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Originally Posted by x90rider View Post
Below the storage box you can see the end of a torsion bar. I installed a piece of 3" aluminum square tubing on each side of the trailer frame. They angle down slightly and are welded together under the center of the trailer. This helps keep the torsion bars in the tubing during storage or when moving around at home. This has definitely solved the problem of "what to do with the greasy torsion bars" at a campsite or at home.

your set up is the same as mine … I bought my trailer and hitch used and don't know who makes the hitch...can you tell me who makes it or send me a link???
also, I don't know if I am suppose to but I grease both the part that fits in near the ball (along with the ball) and the part that rubs near the chains...don't know if that is the right thing to do, but it defiantly makes the whole shebang quieter...
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Old 10-31-2018, 08:47 AM   #106
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Check out the Outback 312BH folder. Storage for hitch head and bars, all on A-frame of trailer.

https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=85F7A...1602&sc=photos
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Old 10-31-2018, 07:46 PM   #107
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i think phat steve is winner!!!!
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Old 11-01-2018, 05:47 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by mrfikser View Post
your set up is the same as mine … I bought my trailer and hitch used and don't know who makes the hitch...can you tell me who makes it or send me a link???
also, I don't know if I am suppose to but I grease both the part that fits in near the ball (along with the ball) and the part that rubs near the chains...don't know if that is the right thing to do, but it defiantly makes the whole shebang quieter...

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...e/RP66130.html


I grease mine the same way and have zero problems or sway.
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Old 11-05-2018, 09:15 AM   #109
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No grease

I used Teflon pads instead of greasing bars. Kept away from the mess and was quiet.
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Old 11-05-2018, 06:49 PM   #110
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I used Teflon pads instead of greasing bars. Kept away from the mess and was quiet.
Can you explain what kind of teflon pads you use?

Thanks.
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Old 11-05-2018, 08:50 PM   #111
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Can you explain what kind of teflon pads you use?

Thanks.
He's probably referring to the Equal-i-zer Bracket Jackets, for the L bars.
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Old 11-08-2018, 09:53 PM   #112
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For most turns you shouldn't have to remove the Equal-I-Zer hitch bars. I found that to be a big advantage over the old friction sway bars. I can almost jackknife my trailer and the bars don't need to be removed. I have a great way of storing the bars, though, and will share it with you as soon as I can get a picture of the installation. The cost is about $25 for all the parts and there is no drilling into the trailer frame. Will post soon.
OK so here is what I did for storage of my bars. Since I don't take the hitch itself off the truck when camping, I only have the bars to store. The nice part is you can take the bars out of the hitch and put them on the trailer with one move and they are at the same level.
It was easy to make, and didn’t interfere with any operation of the bars and made it easy to secure them to the trailer while camping. I have used it for several years (5 actually) and found it to be easy to work with and simple to build.
I added a picture of what I put together for my Equalizer hitch bars. There is a holder on each side. It works very well and keeps them out of the way and lets me lock them up at the same time. Basically, it consists of putting two square U-bolts around the frame (so you don't have to poke a hole or drill a hole in your TT) and attaching a metal conduit "rigid pipe strap" to the bottom of the U-bolt so it sticks out over the side of the frame. I believe I used a 2-1/2-inch size. You use one to hold up the front of the bar and one to hold up the rear of the bar. The U-bolts are just slipped over the frame and tightened down, and the pipe strap is slipped onto the same bolt. All the parts are available in most hardware stores. In the front pipe strap, I drilled a hole the same size as the hole in the bar so you can slip a long-shackle lock through it so it doesn't walk away (minimum security). I found on my TT that the holders are high enough not to be in the way of anything when the bars are in the “hooked-up” mode and work very well. Since our trailer is stored indoors, when it is in storage, the bars are just put on the holders and the locks are left unlocked. The pictures show each side of the trailer with the bar on the holder. Hope this still can help someone. Enjoy!
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Old 12-09-2018, 11:42 AM   #113
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Ziploc bags

I put Ziploc bags over the greasy ends. Cheap, don’t leak or mess things, and disposable every now and then. Work great.
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Old 12-09-2018, 06:09 PM   #114
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I put Ziploc bags over the greasy ends. Cheap, don’t leak or mess things, and disposable every now and then. Work great.
I'm still at a loss regarding why any of you have greasy ends. The bars are NOT supposed to be greased.
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Old 12-09-2018, 06:43 PM   #115
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I'm still at a loss regarding why any of you have greasy ends. The bars are NOT supposed to be greased.
I use a Reece hitch with trunnion bars. I certainly lube the ball and socket ends.
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Old 12-09-2018, 07:07 PM   #116
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Originally Posted by 2rad4u View Post
I use a Reece hitch with trunnion bars. I certainly lube the ball and socket ends.
I think the original question centered on Equalizer brand hitch bars. All WDH's use bars but the Equalizer brand controls sway with friction on the trailer end of the spring bar.

Others like me use a hitch that requires grease either on the trunions or part that is inserted vertically in the hitch head.

Bottom line, if you have bars that have grease on one end storage becomes more problematic as the greasy end needs to be covered and they shouldn't just be tossed on the dirt.
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Old 12-15-2018, 08:39 PM   #117
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OK so here is what I did for storage of my bars. Since I don't take the hitch itself off the truck when camping, I only have the bars to store. The nice part is you can take the bars out of the hitch and put them on the trailer with one move and they are at the same level.

It was easy to make, and didn’t interfere with any operation of the bars and made it easy to secure them to the trailer while camping. I have used it for several years (5 actually) and found it to be easy to work with and simple to build.

I added a picture of what I put together for my Equalizer hitch bars. There is a holder on each side. It works very well and keeps them out of the way and lets me lock them up at the same time. Basically, it consists of putting two square U-bolts around the frame (so you don't have to poke a hole or drill a hole in your TT) and attaching a metal conduit "rigid pipe strap" to the bottom of the U-bolt so it sticks out over the side of the frame. I believe I used a 2-1/2-inch size. You use one to hold up the front of the bar and one to hold up the rear of the bar. The U-bolts are just slipped over the frame and tightened down, and the pipe strap is slipped onto the same bolt. All the parts are available in most hardware stores. In the front pipe strap, I drilled a hole the same size as the hole in the bar so you can slip a long-shackle lock through it so it doesn't walk away (minimum security). I found on my TT that the holders are high enough not to be in the way of anything when the bars are in the “hooked-up” mode and work very well. Since our trailer is stored indoors, when it is in storage, the bars are just put on the holders and the locks are left unlocked. The pictures show each side of the trailer with the bar on the holder. Hope this still can help someone. Enjoy!


Very good idea. When the weather breaks in Ny(April hopefully) this will be on the list!!!!
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Old 12-15-2018, 08:52 PM   #118
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Very good idea. When the weather breaks in Ny(April hopefully) this will be on the list!!!!
If you have any questions/problems, feel free to contact me on the private message system.
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Old 12-16-2018, 08:43 AM   #119
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Very good idea. When the weather breaks in Ny(April hopefully) this will be on the list!!!!
x2 FOR SURE! Except that I live in Florida so I will be doing it TODAY! I have been using pool noodles cut in half along the battery tray at the front of my TT and resting the Equalizer bars on those. It has worked fine, but you have to lift the bars up and out; I like having them basically flush with the hitch - will be just a bit easier on my back and every little bit helps!
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Old 12-16-2018, 09:10 AM   #120
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x2 FOR SURE! Except that I live in Florida so I will be doing it TODAY! I have been using pool noodles cut in half along the battery tray at the front of my TT and resting the Equalizer bars on those. It has worked fine, but you have to lift the bars up and out; I like having them basically flush with the hitch - will be just a bit easier on my back and every little bit helps!
Sounds great. In Michigan right now it is 31 degrees. We were at Disney for the Halloween festivities and enjoyed all the warm weather. Everything to make the "rack" is regular hardware stuff, so it shouldn't be a problem finding it. I did put lock washers and an extra nut on the U bolt to keep the pipe straps from turning and haven't had a problem with that at all. If you have the V front, like we do, the U bolt closest to the TT body slips on and then slides under the body. On ours there was room between the frame and the body to do it. Takes about a half hour to do both sides. The only drilling is to put the holes in the front pipe straps for the locks, if you want them. Do post a picture when it is done. Good luck.
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