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Old 03-01-2015, 07:24 PM   #41
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Kasdk is correct. However, the cost of a pro install is 2 hrs labor max. I am electrically challenged �� to me $150 well spent. If I did it, surely would smell burning wires��.
I still try to plug a full grounded cord into a normal socket ��
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Old 03-01-2015, 07:51 PM   #42
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Hardest part of a hard wire for me was finding the place to put it. I was lucky and put it in a storage compartment. Some can only put it behind their power center- which may be tight on space. It would not be tgat hard for me to disconnect and move to another unit.


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Old 03-02-2015, 10:33 AM   #43
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Hello!

I have been looking all over the forums for a post where someone modified their hardwire progressive unit to be portable, had pics and everything. Now I can't find it

I thought I had 'saved' the link or subscribed to the thread but alas I didn't . If anyone here knows where I might find it I would be most grateful
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Old 03-02-2015, 10:39 AM   #44
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Hello!

I have been looking all over the forums for a post where someone modified their hardwire progressive unit to be portable, had pics and everything. Now I can't find it

I thought I had 'saved' the link or subscribed to the thread but alas I didn't . If anyone here knows where I might find it I would be most grateful
Here's one thread.....

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ems-56898.html
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Old 03-02-2015, 10:54 AM   #45
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Just had a look at the thread from fonzie, just a thought,if you are going to go to all the trouble of doing it that way why not just cut your power cable inside a compartment add a male/female end, then you can install a portable unit inline inside the compartment. It would be able to be locked up and you still would be able to move it easily from unit to unit as you up graded and be able to attach to pedestal before connecting to check it out.
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Old 03-02-2015, 10:58 AM   #46
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Quote:
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Thanks! This one certainly has some good pics

This post reminds me that the post I had seen before was probably from Turbs and it also gave instructions about materials needed, etc.

Thanks again and I'll be sure to save these posts better for future reference
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Old 03-02-2015, 11:00 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by wana65stang View Post
Just had a look at the thread from fonzie, just a thought,if you are going to go to all the trouble of doing it that way why not just cut your power cable inside a compartment add a male/female end, then you can install a portable unit inline inside the compartment. It would be able to be locked up and you still would be able to move it easily from unit to unit as you up graded and be able to attach to pedestal before connecting to check it out.

Yep. Been thinking of that myself. Two reasons I hadn't:

1) it'd have to be in an accessible compartment to easily pull in/out for testing at the pole. And then, if it's hooked up to the pole, why bother putting it back inside the trailer?

2) the hardwired units have remote displays. A portable's display is in the unit. When you have a portable inside a storage compartment, you can't see the display.




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Old 03-02-2015, 11:04 AM   #48
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Just had a look at the thread from fonzie, just a thought,if you are going to go to all the trouble of doing it that way why not just cut your power cable inside a compartment add a male/female end, then you can install a portable unit inline inside the compartment. It would be able to be locked up and you still would be able to move it easily from unit to unit as you up graded and be able to attach to pedestal before connecting to check it out.
I guess the best explanation would be that if you did it the way you suggest you would not have the benefit of the display for amp draw and error codes. And if you are going to cut your power cord then you may just as well install the hard wire one....as for me...I think I will just stick to a portable one. There are lots of other things that could walk away from my campsite and they never do, and if I am concerned, I will just put the padlock on it.
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Old 03-02-2015, 11:16 AM   #49
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Kaadk and wfd Good points, I was just thinking out loud on way I said, I too have a portable unit that I plug into pole and use a cheap bike chain lock to attach to pole, I know it won't stop somebody if they really want it but give the impression thats it secure.
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Old 03-02-2015, 11:27 AM   #50
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Kaadk and wfd Good points, I was just thinking out loud on way I said, I too have a portable unit that I plug into pole and use a cheap bike chain lock to attach to pole, I know it won't stop somebody if they really want it but give the impression thats it secure.

I don't even bother locking mine. I figure the people who know what they're worth won't be deterred by whatever lock I manage to put on it. And if I do lock it, that just draws attention to it being valuable.

Without the lock it's more likely somebody will steal my power cord for the copper than it is someone will take the surge guard.





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Old 03-02-2015, 11:32 AM   #51
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wrestling

I was also thinking of changing out the hard cord for a more flexible baloney, that would be more manageable in the future, and smaller with more amperage rating, we use it often in temporary installations in manufacturing plans, when they wanted it running right away, and then permanently wiring it while they ran,,, some day in the near future!!!

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THEFT and plain ole forgetting it. Another is having to do with non std pedastal and not enough clearance. Another is wrestling it and plugs in pouring rain.
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Old 03-02-2015, 11:48 AM   #52
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Found the posts!!!

Here's one of the ones TURBS posted with pics:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tml#post352211

Here's one that helped me better understand which plugs to get:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tor-61842.html

After everything I have read, the Progressive Hardwire combined with the 'portable' install method is the direction I'm going. Now I just need to get my electrician/hubbie to install it
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Old 04-02-2015, 03:04 PM   #53
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Ok, after reading here, I find a surge protector a must , I am looking at two ,34750 and 34850 . They appear to have the exact same protection features but are $150 difference in price , I am not looking to take the cheap way out ,but $150 is $150 . Any suggestions or if you know the difference between the two , they both have the same Joule protection ..
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Old 04-02-2015, 03:08 PM   #54
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Personally and only my opinion.
Buy a progressive industries ems .
Made in the USA
Lifetime warranty.

I cannot comment on the two you've listed because you didn't list a brand name.

Further more you get the best bang for the buck with a progressive hardwired unit.
They have more protection then all the others I've seen.

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Old 04-02-2015, 03:20 PM   #55
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Those look like Surge Guard model numbers. Like Turbs said, the Progressive Industries is the better unit, but the Surge Guards are still fairly decent.

The key is to make sure you're buying power protection and not just surge protection. I remember the Surge Guards had a chart on their website comparing their different models, and showing you what's not covered with their cheaper ones. Might want to look them up and find out the difference between the models.







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Old 04-02-2015, 05:31 PM   #56
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I checked, these are Surge Guard numbers.
Remember, NO LIFETIME WARRANTY. You should research all of the positive stories regarding Progressive. I bought mine thru Technorv on Monday and received it today!
Free shipping AND NO TAX! Techno was a FR vendor at The Rally 2014! Trustworthy and very reliable!
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Old 04-02-2015, 09:01 PM   #57
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Surge Protection Question

We just purchased a SurgeGuard surge protector. Being a newbie, do you have to figure out away to make them theft proof? Or do people pretty much leave them alone...
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Old 04-03-2015, 07:11 AM   #58
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Securing Your Surge Guard

i am not criticizing Surge Guard. I bought Progressive. It came with a metal collar to lock the unit to the pedestal. Also I bought the suggested
Master Lock adjustable inter locking cable lock for $23. It fits thru the collar and around the pedestal.
Surge Guard sells a locking security box that locks your 2 cords together.
It is plastic. Read the blogs out there.
For added protection, you can fashion a smaller type chain around the neck of the unit and lock it tight to the cord, stays there, no need to remove and then have sufficient chain, 6 ft to wrap and lock to the pedestal.
I lock evetything down. I have had stuff stolen and recovered from the least suspected person. Why buy when you can STEAL seems to be todays moral failure. 😞
Yes, even fellow campers!!
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Old 04-03-2015, 07:32 AM   #59
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We just purchased a SurgeGuard surge protector. Being a newbie, do you have to figure out away to make them theft proof? Or do people pretty much leave them alone...
They have a plastic box which locks the cord too the Surge Guard, however it will only keep the honest people honest. Even with the Progressive portable model with the steel plate, if someone wants it they will get it. When I replace mine it will be with a hard wired model.
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Old 04-03-2015, 08:24 AM   #60
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Thank you for all your info , yes the two pics were surge guard , but I will look into the progressive model ...
Thanks again !
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