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06-25-2018, 08:43 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Apollo, PA
Posts: 588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milton_w_herron
Why did you sell a 2017 WS2703
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If you’re asking me, we found a front living room fifth wheel that didn’t require a DRW truck to tow it. Local, private owner. We fell in love with the front living floor plan at the shows but most of them were very heavy. It’s still a little bigger than what we need, but the pin weight is under 2000#.
We liked the 2703WS and only had a few minor issues before the warranty was up.
We also used folding step supports on the tt, which don’t help when moving around inside but it felt better going in and out.
__________________
2017 Rockwood 2703WS - Sold
2015 Keystone Sprinter 333FWFLS
2017 F250, 6.2 Gas, 3.73 Axle, 2902 lb Payload
If women don't find you handsome, at least they should find you handy!
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06-25-2018, 09:20 PM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 28
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I re-snug the stabilizers, usually the next morning.
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06-25-2018, 09:25 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Kalamazoo
Posts: 2,139
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Sorry. My mind is still blown someone actually suggested to lift the tounge off the ground with the stabilizer jacks.
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06-27-2018, 11:32 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: SE Iowa
Posts: 628
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i have 4x6 treated blocks then i got some old seat belts out of a junk car and screwed to the blocks so they are easy to carry i put them under my level up system
__________________
2016 SANDPIPER 35ROK
2013 Silverado Duramax 3500HD DRW LB
Stop worrying about the potholes in the road and enjoy the journey
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06-27-2018, 11:50 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Life Without Whine
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I agree that along with X-chocks, this has made a big improvement for us at a low cost and easy to do.
__________________
You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality – Ayn Rand
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06-27-2018, 12:21 PM
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#26
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Plano, TX
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimber45
Sorry. My mind is still blown someone actually suggested to lift the tounge off the ground with the stabilizer jacks.
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HAHAHAHAHA you just made me spray coffee!
__________________
Curtis & Melissa
2016 Solaire 247RKES GT3
2013 F-150 EcoBoost
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06-28-2018, 10:31 PM
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#27
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 59
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When we went up to 32ft DW did not like the bounce from grand-kids in the bunkhouse. I will probably end up with JT Strong arms but for now this what I do. Once level, I lower the front, just a two or three bumps on the power jack. I put down the rear stabilizer,snug. I know some are concerned about bending but I have put a good bit of pressure on the stabilizer. Once rear stabilizer is down, I bump the front back up putting a little more weight on the back. I then put the front stabilizer down snug. Put in X chocks and let slides out. Periodically while we are set up I check to make sure stabilizers are still snug. For some reason the rear seems to loosen up. I have thought about using a ratchet strap to try and keep it snug.
This set up works pretty good but we still have some movement. So the last week-long trip, I use four screw jacks. I had to use some blocking as the cheap ones (4 for like $35) were not tall enough. Set these up two on each side. DW was very pleased almost no noticeable movement. Very little movement at all. I have two entree doors and two slides. I set one by each door and one under each slide screwed snug to frame not the slides.
FYI most of the electric motors on stabilizers have overload protection that auto-rests. I have had them trip before. Thought I had killed it until I found out about overload protection. I think most people would tell me I put to much pressure on the electric stabilizers, but I have not had a major issue in 5 years.
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06-29-2018, 10:44 AM
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#28
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Plano, TX
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RnRushin
I think most people would tell me I put to much pressure on the electric stabilizers, but I have not had a major issue in 5 years.
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You are correct, sir! I can tell you from personal experience that this can end in disaster. Someone (a good friend, long time RV owner and mechanic) told me about this years ago and my dumb@$$ believed him and decided to try it myself. Here's what happened. It seemed to work pretty well! Did it for years with no problems! Then one day my wife was in the shower and I was doing dishes (in the rear kitchen) and the front stabilizer arms folded under the trailer from the movement. The sudden downward force collapsed the cinder block my tongue jack was sitting on so it went straight down to the ground. I fell away from the sink but caught myself before going face first into a wall but my wife didn't fare too well in the shower. The impact separated the front cap from the sides, starting at the bottom up to about half-way, not to mention the mangled stabilizer arm assembly. Let's just say that was an expensive and painful mistake I'll never make again. Don't believe everything the "experts" tell you!
__________________
Curtis & Melissa
2016 Solaire 247RKES GT3
2013 F-150 EcoBoost
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07-02-2018, 07:17 PM
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#29
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Happy Camper
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Knoxville
Posts: 10
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We experienced the same thing with our 30 ft flagstaff vlite. The first thing I tried was the X Chocks, they helped a lot, but still had more bounce than I wanted. I recently purchased slide out stabilizers. They have eliminated almost all the bounce. What you need to realize is that it still rests on the campers suspension springs, so you will never eliminate 100% of the bounce.
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07-02-2018, 09:41 PM
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#30
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Michigan
Posts: 45
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what we do!!!
We used the tandem wheel chocks, the stair stabilizers AND 2 Universal R stabilizers found here https://www.campingworld.com/univers...SABEgK_jPD_BwE
and between those three things ( WE ARE NEWBIES - 3rd year) We really feel a difference in the wobble. I can actually sleep and not feel the wobble of other half or springers walking around or jumping on or off the couch like before we bough these. PLUS the stair stabilizers will save on your stairs. Super awesome.
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07-02-2018, 09:59 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Southern IN
Posts: 1,013
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While the JT's and Steadyfast are very good products, I didn't have the coin to spend on those. So, instead, I went with the "poor mans'" version, the BAL Lock Arm stabilizers. I purchased 2 and have them both installed on the rear corners. I didn't put any on the front corners because the tongue jack acts as a stabilizer as well. Using these along with the X-chocks has made our unit very stable...
https://www.amazon.com/BAL-23216-Loc...70_&dpSrc=srch
__________________
Gerard
2017 Coachmen Apex 269RBKS with Summit Pkg.
2014 Ford Expedition with factory installed HD tow pkg.
Blue Ox SwayPro WDH
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07-03-2018, 07:20 AM
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#32
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 25
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Blasingame:
Working from AndyMil list:
We:
Put Camco Wheel Stops between the wheels on both sides.
Add stabilizer jacks to the frame near the axles on both sides about a foot forward of the leading wheel surface.
Go around the next morning and snug up the original frame stabilizers because the slideout movement and ground settlement seem to cause looseness.
Dale
2015 Forest River Rockwood MiniLite 2504S
Eastern Iowa
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07-03-2018, 07:31 AM
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#33
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matster
We experienced the same thing with our 30 ft flagstaff vlite. The first thing I tried was the X Chocks, they helped a lot, but still had more bounce than I wanted. I recently purchased slide out stabilizers. They have eliminated almost all the bounce. What you need to realize is that it still rests on the campers suspension springs, so you will never eliminate 100% of the bounce.
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Just a word of caution!...
Almost all side manufacturers recommend AGAINST the use of slide out stabilizers UNLESS you have the frame on blocks or piers.
Should you have a tire lose pressure, settling or catastrophic failure (as someone mentioned in an earlier post) of the corner stabilizers or any other reason for the rig to move, severe damage can be done to the slide out even with as little as a half inch of movement.
Old time manual slides on destination trailers and TT did need them and that is what they were intended for. Today's modern electric/hydraulic slides are designed and built to be used WITHOUT stabilizers under them.
Put the stabilizers you purchased under the frame (by the slide out) and they will serve the same purpose and not damage anything should something move slightly.
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2024 Ford F-Series SCREW•7.3L•4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA
Days Camped ☼ '19=118 ☼ '20=116 ☼ '21=123 ☼ '22=134 ☼ '23=118☼ '24=90
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07-03-2018, 08:40 AM
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#34
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Northen IL
Posts: 8,320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker
Just a word of caution!...
Almost all side manufacturers recommend AGAINST the use of slide out stabilizers UNLESS you have the frame on blocks or piers.
Should you have a tire lose pressure, settling or catastrophic failure (as someone mentioned in an earlier post) of the corner stabilizers or any other reason for the rig to move, severe damage can be done to the slide out even with as little as a half inch of movement.
Old time manual slides on destination trailers and TT did need them and that is what they were intended for. Today's modern electric/hydraulic slides are designed and built to be used WITHOUT stabilizers under them.
Put the stabilizers you purchased under the frame (by the slide out) and they will serve the same purpose and not damage anything should something move slightly.
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The next time I'm at my trailer and thinking about it, I need to take a picture of the 2x6's that I have under my wheels. We've been there less than a year and the bottom board is almost entirely buried in the ground. I don't think people realize how quickly and how far these things can settle. Especially if the ground is soft.
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07-03-2018, 09:16 AM
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#35
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Grammar Pedant
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Frederick, CO
Posts: 1,580
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I have a 26' Mini Lite with a bunkhouse in the rear and queen bed in the front. I put my stabilizers on 4x6 blocks, chock each side really well, use the x-chocks between the tires on each side, and have a step stabilizer in place. I still get lots of movement when the kids move around in their bunks.
Clearly, the $260+ options for JT Strongarm and equivalent are probably the best solution, as it puts a series of triangular reinforcements in key spots. If I camped for weeks at a time, I'd probably suck it up and spend the $$. But, I only camp for 2-4 nights per outing. I can live with the bounce, as I have other cash needs.
So, that puts me into the sub-$100 shopping mode, knowing that these will all be some compromise.
I will probably go with the Valterra stabilizer route, though two are recommended. Trapezoid isn't as strong as a triangle, but it gets pretty good reviews. At $40 each, it fits my tight budget.
The BAL 23216 Lock-Arm Stabilizing Bar posted above also looks interesting ... sort of a singular approach to the strongarm et al. design. About the same as the Valterra at $76 for a pair.
Decision time ...
BTW, here is a pic of the Valterra design:
__________________
Every time you use an apostrophe to make a word plural, a puppy dies.
TV: 2019 F-350 Lariat 4WD CCSB 6.7 PSD 3.55, 3,591 lb payload
Former RV: 2018 Rockwood Mini Lite 2504S
Former RV: 2007 Fleetwood/Coleman Utah
Former TV: 2005 F-150 King Ranch 4WD SCrew 5.4L Tow Package
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07-03-2018, 04:28 PM
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#36
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Plano, TX
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 83
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67L48:
"Every time you use an apostrophe to make a word plural, a puppy dies."
YESSSSSSS!!!!!!
Wait, don't you mean die's?
__________________
Curtis & Melissa
2016 Solaire 247RKES GT3
2013 F-150 EcoBoost
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07-03-2018, 04:36 PM
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#37
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 9
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Good evening what are JT. Strong arms? We have a 33ft 5th wheel and have that issue at times Thanks for all the info
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07-04-2018, 08:51 AM
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#38
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67L48
I have a 26' Mini Lite with a bunkhouse in the rear and queen bed in the front. I put my stabilizers on 4x6 blocks, chock each side really well, use the x-chocks between the tires on each side, and have a step stabilizer in place. I still get lots of movement when the kids move around in their bunks.
Clearly, the $260+ options for JT Strongarm and equivalent are probably the best solution, as it puts a series of triangular reinforcements in key spots. If I camped for weeks at a time, I'd probably suck it up and spend the $$. But, I only camp for 2-4 nights per outing. I can live with the bounce, as I have other cash needs.
So, that puts me into the sub-$100 shopping mode, knowing that these will all be some compromise.
I will probably go with the Valterra stabilizer route, though two are recommended. Trapezoid isn't as strong as a triangle, but it gets pretty good reviews. At $40 each, it fits my tight budget.
The BAL 23216 Lock-Arm Stabilizing Bar posted above also looks interesting ... sort of a singular approach to the strongarm et al. design. About the same as the Valterra at $76 for a pair.
Decision time ...
BTW, here is a pic of the Valterra design:
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I recently got a pair of Valterra and they work great. Doesn't take 100% of the bounce out but Deffinetly makes a huge difference. Deffinetly go with 2, I put one on the door side between the tires and the door and 1 on the rear bumper. I also tried to put one on each side which worked a little bit. I may pick up a third in the future to go both sides and rear, read a few reviews from people that have done it and they said it works even better.
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07-22-2018, 07:33 AM
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#39
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 6
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With the lock arm stabilizer, you only can mount it front to back. Can anyone suggest a place to mount it from side to side?
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07-22-2018, 08:05 AM
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#40
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GOODBYE SUIT - HELLO RV!!
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nurek
Did you left the tongue jack off the ground? I do and it helps. Just about 1cm.
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I am HOPING you mean that you put a block under the tongue jack foot when you say you lift it off the ground to increase the stability.
I put a stack of levelers under the tongue jack foot and each stabilizer foot when I set up. With the XChocks it seems to help.
Interesting thread...this is the first TT I've had that the stabilizers loosen over time. At first I thought I was going crazy thinking I did not put the stabilizers down properly when we started getting bounce so I checked the stabilizers...sure enough, they were hovering over the leveler blocks so I re-tightened them and all OK. Must be the design since this TT is the first one I've had with the scissor jack stabilizers.
__________________
LIVE-LOVE-CAMP
2019 Rockwood 2104s w/Equalizer 4-point WDH
2017 Ford Expedition 4WD 3.5L TwinTurbo V6 w/Heavy Duty Tow Pkg (Artemis)
2017 Ford Mustang GT Premium California Special Convertible (The Beast)
2006 Ford Mustang 3.0 V6 Convertible (Lil' Blue)
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