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Old 08-17-2013, 07:18 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by mjones12 View Post
I have for years used the x-chocks exclusively as chocks with nothing else, and they work great. The trailer will not roll if they are installed and tightened.
There are two kinds out there. The BAL X-Chocks with the wrench-and-nut tightening system is a true chock (or so they claim). The Ultra-Fab Chock-n-Lock (which I have) sell for $30 a pair and are advertised as stabilizers used only to prevent the rocking motion associated with folks walking around in the trailer. They are lever operated. That's why I still use wedge chocks to prevent rolling; the C-n-Ls won't hold a TT that wants to go somewhere badly enough. (as I found out).

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Old 08-17-2013, 07:20 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Batts-toy View Post
Interesting, then they are saying 'not to use them as chocks' when un-hooking, so you use regular chocks to un-hook then place the x-chocks so the only purpose the x units are serving is as stabalizers (if you follow the instructions).
Exactly. Ultra-Fab's "Chock-n-Lock" is a stabilizer only.

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Old 08-17-2013, 08:58 AM   #23
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I am curious what others might think of a technique I have been using this summer. I am using the plastic wedge chocks and this is on relatively level sites. I get situated/level and then put a chock up tight behind the front tire of the trailer, then put the truck in reverse and just put some pressure on the chock, then while still applying the pressure, my wife will slide another chock in front of the tire. Let the pressure off and the tire is wedged between the two chocks. My thought is this might achieve some of the desired effect of one-step or even a x-chock. What do you think?
I see the logic in this technique but it seems a little dangerous to me. Couldn't you accomplish the same thing by giving each chock a good rap with a mallet?
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Old 08-17-2013, 01:19 PM   #24
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I see the logic in this technique but it seems a little dangerous to me. Couldn't you accomplish the same thing by giving each chock a good rap with a mallet?
I did that, but the wheel still rolled onto the chock afterwards. I cam to the same conclusion as lvnthenw, use the TV to seat the wheels onto, not just up against, the radius chocks.

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Old 08-21-2013, 11:57 AM   #25
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One thing to remember about the X chocks. I found this out the hard way. If you put them on right away when you get where your going, don't for get to come back and check them later. The tires will cool and they WILL loosen up. We suffered no damage, but the trailer did roll about a foot back the next MORNING! Now, I know my DW has a mouth like a sailor, and I check them chocks and stabilizers every morn while I get up and walk around.
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:51 PM   #26
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One thing to remember about the X chocks. I found this out the hard way. If you put them on right away when you get where your going, don't for get to come back and check them later. The tires will cool and they WILL loosen up. We suffered no damage, but the trailer did roll about a foot back the next MORNING! Now, I know my DW has a mouth like a sailor, and I check them chocks and stabilizers every morn while I get up and walk around.
Very true, they do loosen after the tires cool so check them! AND they don't do well when put over tire covers for storage. I about lost a pair of undies when I found that out! My trailer rolled about a foot and slid off the 6x6 block the tongue was sitting on. I use the x-chock AND the plastic yellow chocks now.
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:34 AM   #27
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One thing to remember about the X chocks. I found this out the hard way. If you put them on right away when you get where your going, don't for get to come back and check them later. The tires will cool and they WILL loosen up.
I hadn't thought of that. I'll wait to put them on since I'm relying on my plain ol' regular chocks to prevent rollaways.

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Old 08-22-2013, 08:50 AM   #28
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How many pop-up owners have forgot to put down the stab jacks?
I did! Didn't realize it until we climbed into bed and stood the camper straight up and down on the bed!
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Old 08-22-2013, 12:01 PM   #29
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How many pop-up owners have forgot to put down the stab jacks?
I did! Didn't realize it until we climbed into bed and stood the camper straight up and down on the bed!
Happened to me in my buddy's pop-up. He setup in the rain and was rushing. Even better- he went to be first on the tongue side. Dad and I went to bed well after him and were awaken by the alien invasion at 5am when natured called my friend outside. Said he heard the crash midstream and instantly knew what he forgot...
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Old 09-06-2013, 10:04 PM   #30
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I just bought a 2011 Georgetown Forest River 28' MH - Is it okay when using the levelers if all the wheels on one side (front and back) are off the ground when it's leveled? Can I use it that way?

Ed
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Old 09-07-2013, 11:21 PM   #31
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I am brand new here. I drive for ABF Freight Lines city board. I have put wheel chocks under more trailers than you can imagine. I put the chock up tight to the wheel, then drop my trailer. The chocks I use weigh about 15 to 20 lbs each, made out of layers of hard type rubber type material and have a metal handle on them. The only time I have ever experienced tire creep is when you dump the air out of the bags on the trailer suspension. All the others are spring suspended and never creep on me when I pull out from the trailer. On a incline with my new 25 foot Grey Wolfe I would chock both sides using 4 chalks, THEN lower the front jack & pull out. If this is wrong & might cause damage please let me know. Thanks. Phil.
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:57 AM   #32
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On a incline with my new 25 foot Grey Wolfe I would chock both sides using 4 chalks, THEN lower the front jack & pull out. If this is wrong & might cause damage please let me know. Thanks. Phil.
I would chock both sides anytime the TT is unhitched from the TV, not just on inclines. Keeping in mind that the TT is free-wheeling and does not have a parking brake.
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Old 09-08-2013, 09:53 AM   #33
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Chocks

Good point. Forgot about the freewheeling, no brakes. So use to setting the brakes in the tractor & the spring loaded brakes on the trailer are engaged as soon as you remove the air pressure. Nothing like caged brakes! Kind of strange, about 8 years ago OSHA dropped the requirement of using chocks. It is the responsibility of the person working the trailer, NOT THE DRIVER who is responsible for securing the trailer to the dock doors. Just about all LTL & most TL trucking companies donít use wheel chocks, but 99 % of their customers require you set the chocks. Go figure?
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Old 09-08-2013, 12:47 PM   #34
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On the plus side... You won't have the hassle of trying to free "stuck" brakes on your TT even after it has been sitting for a while. :-)
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Old 09-08-2013, 01:14 PM   #35
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Brakes

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On the plus side... You won't have the hassle of trying to free "stuck" brakes on your TT even after it has been sitting for a while. :-)
Especially right after a ice storm or during one.
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Old 09-08-2013, 01:40 PM   #36
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I just bought a 2011 Georgetown Forest River 28' MH - Is it okay when using the levelers if all the wheels on one side (front and back) are off the ground when it's leveled? Can I use it that way?

Ed
As I recall the stabilizers arent designed to handle all the weight of the trailer. Not to mention that the other side likely has the wheels stuffed all the way in.

Time to buy a 10 foot 2x8 and cut it in half. Stack them on top of each other.
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Old 09-08-2013, 02:02 PM   #37
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As I recall the stabilizers arent designed to handle all the weight of the trailer. Not to mention that the other side likely has the wheels stuffed all the way in.

Time to buy a 10 foot 2x8 and cut it in half. Stack them on top of each other.
He's not talking about "stabilizers". Leveling systems are designed to hold the weight of the rig.
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Old 09-08-2013, 03:24 PM   #38
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white trim cleaner

White trim cleaner

I try everything and then my wife suggests peroxide and baking soda. It work great just mix together and make a paste, scrub with a nail brush let sit for 20 minutes and rinse. You might need a little sos pad after but be careful no to scrub the paint with sos pad. Rinse well and then seal with a good wax. Good luck
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:09 PM   #39
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Drain cleaning

Try baking soda & vinegar. Use it all the time in my home drains once a month. Dissolves hair & other items built up in the trap. Use it every month & you will rarely have a problem. About a pint of vinegar cup of baking soda & very hot or boiling water to rise out the drain after the other to 2 boil out the trap in each drain. Should work well in an RV I would think.
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:15 PM   #40
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He's not talking about "stabilizers". Leveling systems are designed to hold the weight of the rig.
Ah. Thanks.
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