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Old 09-10-2013, 10:22 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by wmtire View Post
I use solid rubber wheel chocks from Harbor Freight (pic below), on the front tires and rear tires ( 4 total)......before I unhook. The bottom of these chocks have grooves/teeth to help prevent sliding. Never liked those plastic chocks too much. I've actually seen the hollow plastic kind get crushed when a camping buddy forgot to remove it before pulling out. I find the Harbor Freight chocks on sale all the time for $5

After I unhook, I install the roto-chocks as a stabilizer and to a lesser degree as backup tire chocks.

I bought those same chocks, I was not too keen on the hard plastic ones.
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Old 09-12-2013, 01:35 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by awellis3 View Post
I then went into the trailer to change my skivvies.

Teach


This has not happen to me yet but did have a neighbor who only used xchocks and did not put any under the tires sure enough after two years it bit him and the trailer slid foward the tounge jack slipped off the blocks and buried into the mud since it had been raining they where in the trailer needless to say he and his wife also had to change skivvies. We the other neighbor help and some extra jacks I had and a 2x4 I always carry we got his tongue lifted enough to get him rehooked
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Old 09-14-2013, 05:58 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by BandJCarm View Post
WMTire, you got me to thinking. I'm visiting daughter south of Charlotte, NC and there's a Harbor Freight closeby. I have NOT been enamored with my set of those cheapo yellow chocks, and those solid rubber ones are $8.00.

On the topic of leveling, I see a ton of folks leveling by using the TV. I don't get that. Oh, if I was in a VERY unlevel (is that a word?) place side to side, maybe. But everywhere I've been (very limited) is pretty level pads, gravel mostly.

So what I've done is:
Back In
Put in chocks, set of four
Unhook from TV
Level front to back using electric jack
Drop stabilizers front and back, using pads to raise one side if necessary
And lastly, putting some kind of scissor jacks mid-trailer, which makes a world of difference in stability.
By using your stabilizers to level your TT you are running the risk of bending your frame, along with the attendant problems caused by panels that are out of alignment with each other. I believe I might have a photo somewhere of a TT with an out-of-square entry door caused by leveling with the stabilizer jacks if you want to see the evidence. Your wheels should be supporting the full weight of the camper at all times. Unless, of course, you have a jack under the axle in order to change the tire.

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Originally Posted by lvnthenw View Post
I am curious what others might think of a technique I have been using this summer. I am using the plastic wedge chocks and this is on relatively level sites. I get situated/level and then put a chock up tight behind the front tire of the trailer, then put the truck in reverse and just put some pressure on the chock, then while still applying the pressure, my wife will slide another chock in front of the tire. Let the pressure off and the tire is wedged between the two chocks. My thought is this might achieve some of the desired effect of one-step or even a x-chock. What do you think?
This is a very effective method of setting your chocks. In fact, I had a Gulfstream TT in which the manufacturer specified this same method.
And yes, effective wheel chocking in this manner will obviate the use of any kind of between-the-wheels chock that relies on friction.

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Originally Posted by Ed Sorger View Post
I just bought a 2011 Georgetown Forest River 28' MH - Is it okay when using the levelers if all the wheels on one side (front and back) are off the ground when it's leveled? Can I use it that way?

You are putting far too much weight on levelers that are fully extended. Recommend putting some ramps or boards under the wheels to get close to level then use the levelers (preferably with a stack of blocks under them) to take some load off the suspension and level up. You are far less likely to bend a piston or ruin a seal.

Ed
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Old 09-14-2013, 06:03 PM   #44
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Harbor Freight had those rubber chocks on sale when I was there today. Bought 4. Will use them on the next trip.
Thanks for helping me spend MORE money everyone.
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Old 09-14-2013, 07:48 PM   #45
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Harbor Freight had those rubber chocks on sale when I was there today. Bought 4. Will use them on the next trip.
Thanks for helping me spend MORE money everyone.

Nothing like money flow to brick up the economy.......
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Old 09-16-2013, 12:15 PM   #46
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Harbor Freight had those rubber chocks on sale when I was there today. Bought 4. Will use them on the next trip.
Thanks for helping me spend MORE money everyone.
I bought 2 today as well, priced at $9.99 on sale for $7.99. When I got home I took a look at their flyer for Sept. 17-30 & they are going to be $6 . It just isn't worth the gas to go back & save $2 each.
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Old 09-16-2013, 12:33 PM   #47
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I have found them on sale several times at 50% off, or 5 bucks.

Main thing is, do you like them better than the hollow plastic kind? If so, a few bucks really shouldn't matter one way or the other.
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Old 09-16-2013, 03:17 PM   #48
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I bought 2 today as well, priced at $9.99 on sale for $7.99. When I got home I took a look at their flyer for Sept. 17-30 & they are going to be $6 . It just isn't worth the gas to go back & save $2 each.
Thanks for the heads up! I'll be sure to pick some up tomorrow.
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:28 PM   #49
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Hung some rope off mine.










Makes pullin them easy
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:10 PM   #50
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I did the same thing. Drilled through one of the dimples and passed a rope through.

We dont get to go camping till mid October. Might be last trip of the year....
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:34 PM   #51
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I did the same thing. Drilled through one of the dimples and passed a rope through.

We dont get to go camping till mid October. Might be last trip of the year....
If I went camping that late here I would need to strap some snow skies on the trailer wheels and lay in a good stock of fire water....
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:12 PM   #52
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Will be peak leaf color time here. Haven't tested out the heater in the Roo. Will try it out while there. If it works well we might be able to do a few more, but down here in the valley, not in the mountains.
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:17 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by lswartz View Post
I bought 2 today as well, priced at $9.99 on sale for $7.99. When I got home I took a look at their flyer for Sept. 17-30 & they are going to be $6 . It just isn't worth the gas to go back & save $2 each.
I just went on line and ordered 2 from Harbor Freight's web site - $6 each and an extra $7 for S&H. I probably would have spent $20 just in gas one-way to my closest HB!

I haven't used chocks like these on a trailer since I had my PUP - and that's been about 6 years ago. I've always used the BAL deluxe or X-chocks exclusively on my Roo 23SS and now my new Flagstaff 27BESS. But I'm thinking with the length and weight of the 27BESS, having a little extra insurance couldn't hurt.

Larry
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Old 01-19-2014, 03:09 PM   #54
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I used to use the yellow screw clamps that go between the tires.

I didn't like them because no matter how tight I got them, they loosened as the tires cooled.

I forgot to check them once and they were loosely hanging between the tires, no pressure at all on the tire!!

Amazing how much a tire can shrink.
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