Weekends ONLY in WINTER

Pandoras · 11-13-2012, 09:08 AM

Fairly new to RV's and need some help for the winter. Last year the RV was "in storage" and "winterized". We have now purchased a lot on the lake and are spending nearly every weekend at the RV. We're in Alabama, so the winters are not terribly cold for long periods of time, mostly overnight. Having said that, when we leave the RV on Sunday evenings (not to return until Friday evening) and we know that the weather is going to be below freezing for several nights during the week while we are NOT there - What is the best way to assure that we don't have freezing pipes, problems with the water heater, etc. Normally when we leave, we just disconnect the water, cut the fridge up so it doesn't run alot and leave the roof vents cracked to help with condensation. Now that the weather has changed and it is beginnning to get close to freezing at night, we're not sure what is best to do????? Help from long time, experienced RV folks would be appreciated. Thanks!

TURBS · 11-13-2012, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pandoras

Fairly new to RV's and need some help for the winter. Last year the RV was "in storage" and "winterized". We have now purchased a lot on the lake and are spending nearly every weekend at the RV. We're in Alabama, so the winters are not terribly cold for long periods of time, mostly overnight. Having said that, when we leave the RV on Sunday evenings (not to return until Friday evening) and we know that the weather is going to be below freezing for several nights during the week while we are NOT there - What is the best way to assure that we don't have freezing pipes, problems with the water heater, etc. Normally when we leave, we just disconnect the water, cut the fridge up so it doesn't run alot and leave the roof vents cracked to help with condensation. Now that the weather has changed and it is beginnning to get close to freezing at night, we're not sure what is best to do????? Help from long time, experienced RV folks would be appreciated. Thanks!

Drain Hw heater
Drain low point drains
Take a small compresser with and blow out all lines.
Sinks
Showers
Toilet

Refill when u get back.

Turbs

Pandoras · 11-13-2012, 09:34 AM

You have to do that EVERY SUNDAY before you leave?

TURBS · 11-13-2012, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pandoras

You have to do that EVERY SUNDAY before you leave?

Lol if your afraid it's going to freeze yes.

You have really no other option as I see it if you want to continue to use it .

It also depends on how cold your talking and for how many days.

Turbs

Pandoras · 11-13-2012, 10:30 AM

WOW!!!

I don't mean to appear ignorant but, if it gets up into the forties during the day and down into the low thirties or high twenties at night - the chances of it freezing are pretty high? The weather here is much like that during the coldest part of the winter. It will be in the high 30's and low - mid forties during the day and then in the low 30's at night. It rarely gets into the teens and if so, only for a day or two, maybe three the whole season.

Dave_Monica · 11-13-2012, 11:42 AM

What do you have for hook-ups? Electric/water/sewer?

If you have a full hook-up I'd disconnect the water supply, empty the tanks and plug in a small electric heater running on it's lowest setting. If you have the tank heaters, you could have them on instead of dumping the tanks every Sunday.

Dave

Pandoras · 11-13-2012, 12:25 PM

We do have FULL-UP and Tank Heaters and the enclosed heated underbelly. So it would be "safe" to leave the tank heaters on that lowest setting for 4 3/4 days? We actually have an electric fireplace that heats also. Could we leave that on it's lowest heating instead of the electric heater? Sorry, but I am just trying to learn the "correct" things to do.....

Pandoras · 11-13-2012, 12:27 PM

We even wondered if we should put RV anti-freeze in the grey and black water tanks after draining and when we leave? We don't use the fresh water tank.

Dave_Monica · 11-13-2012, 12:31 PM

No problem leaving the tank heaters on as long there's something in the tank...they're thermostatically controlled. As far as heat in the camper, you only want to ensure that the temperature inside doesn't fall below freezing, so whatever heater/setting you need to accomplish that.

Dave

RamblerGuy · 11-18-2012, 02:49 PM

This post did not specify if the RV is a trailer or a motorhome. My comments are based on our 2011 Sunseeker motorhome and they may not all apply to a trailer.
RVs don’t have much insulation. You can expect one that is not heated to be very close to the outside temperature after a day or so, especially if it is in shade.
The underbelly of our motorhome is enclosed. The tanks are heated. The compartment for the water pump and water filter, and the compartment for the sewer connections are heated. These are all heated by small flexible ducts from the LP gas furnace. Although an electric heater will keep the coach warm, no heat will get to the tanks, under-floor plumbing, or heated compartments. Last winter we spent the night in our motorhome when it was 19 degrees F, fully exposed to more than 20 mph wind. The next morning I checked the heated compartments. They were over 50 degrees F.
If you have a motorhome, get an Extend-a-Stay kit and use a large LP gas cylinder so you don’t have to move your RV to refill the LP tank.
Instead of draining the water heater, just leave the electric heating element on. That will certainly keep it from freezing. If you don’t leave it on and don’t winterize the entire system, you should bypass the water heater and drain it. The flue for the gas burner is submerged in the water and the water will cool off quickly because of natural convection.
The kitchen and bath cabinets in our coach stay nice and warm because flexible ducts from the furnace run through them. If you have any plumbing inside cabinets that don’t have heat ducts running through them, leave the cabinet doors open. It’s surprising how cool cabinets such as the wardrobes get during cold weather. Hang a blanket across the opening to the driving compartment. Put a cover on the windshield and side windows.
If possible, put some sort of skirt around the RV to prevent wind from blowing under it. This will do a lot to conserve heat. If you have a slide, run it in when you leave. This reduces the outside wall area some, and the seal under the slide may not be very tight. The one on our motorhome has gaps around the slide mechanism.

erwin · 11-20-2012, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave_Monica

No problem leaving the tank heaters on as long there's something in the tank...they're thermostatically controlled. As far as heat in the camper, you only want to ensure that the temperature inside doesn't fall below freezing, so whatever heater/setting you need to accomplish that.

Dave

Dave, I just redid my underbelly a month ago. I saw the tank heaters for the first time. They're nothing more than a sticky heat pad. Are they really controlled? I kind of regretted not to replaced the two damaged ones while I was there (tore apart by the rodents). Erwin

jtrader · 11-28-2012, 06:43 PM

Mt wife and I are full timing it in Cincinnati. We have a 28' Grey Wolf TT and all we use to heat it is a 1500 watt heater. For your situation I would recommend leaving the factory furnace on with your cabinet doors open to keep the pipes warm, heat tape and insulate the main water line, and turn on your tank heaters. That should keep everything from freezing unless you get into some longer cold spells

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