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For what it's worth...and it does not seem to apply to your situation...it can be difficult to determine if a spade fuse is blown. The best way I've found is to pull each fuse and hold a flashlight behind it and view the status of the fuse. I helped another camper once who was absolutely convinced that he had checked all his fuses (without the flashlight technique). He had actually pulled and viewed them, but he missed a blown 15 amp fuse. When I found it and replaced it, everything worked as it should.
Your problem is likely to be, as others have said, between the battery and the converter. Either the main battery breaker/fuse (mine is a fuse in a tin - now plastic - box) or something on the 12 volt input side of the converter or fuse panel.
But a test of that hypothesis is - do other 12 volt items work? Those would be the water pump, furnace, lift winch (if you have such a thing), exhaust fan, and so on. If anything else is running on 12 volts WITHOUT shore power, your problem is elsewhere. I'd go back to the main fuse panel and pull/check every fuse.
Cruddy battery connections could also prevent some circuits from working as they should. Sometimes a high-current-draw item like a lift winch will get power while small items are not drawing enough current to punch thru the crud. That's hardly a scientific explanation, and it's a very case-specific, freakish experience, but it can happen.
Be sure your battery box, terminals, wires, and crimp on connectors are all clean. Each camper is a bit different, and there is often more than one circuit connected to the battery. An individual crimp on connector can be all crusty inside the crimp while the rest of the wiring and connectors are clean as a whistle. Try soaking the wire ends in a coffee cup with a strong solution of baking soda and water. If you put a Crimp connector into the solution and it bubbles like crazy, take a closer look and consider trimming back the wire and adding a new crimp connector.
I don't think the plunger switch would be the culprit. Why? Mine disintegrated and it failed in the "on" position...which makes sense. There is no plunger left to turn off the circuit, but what remains of the switch is closed and passing current. I must be doubly careful to be sure the furnace and lights are off or risk a fire. Now, if your plunger is stuck, nothing should work whether on shore power or battery. The plunger switch doesn't know one from the other. It just wants to be sure your furnace can't start when the roof is lowered.
That's a lot of guesswork and speculation. Good luck finding the cause.
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Jim & Renee
2020 Jayco Jay Feather X-213
previously 2014 Forest River/Rockwood HW 277
2006 Ram 1500 4WD Crew with Firestone Airbags
Every weekend boondocking in the National Forests or at Lake Vallecito.
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I've even pulled the lighting fuse while connected to a/c and no lights just like they should. The wiring seems to be ok.
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