12v cut-off switch on camper roof -- why?

[khackbarth]

I have a Rockwood HW 277 and have been struggling the last few days trying to understand why the interior roof lights and roof fan were failing or not working at all. I checked the fuse, measured the voltage at the fuse box (not sure how this should work) and at the interior "roof lights" switch. Then I tried tracing the wiring in the front left corner of the bed up to the roof. As I was pulling on the wires, the lights would flicker.

I used to have a Fleetwood Bayside and that had a wire coupler near the roof that separated once in 10 years of use and caused the interior lights to fail. I wondered if the same thing existed for the Rockwood...

Instead I noticed on the outside of the camper, up under the roof shell, there's a large cut-off switch (see picture). There are a bundle of wires crimped together and attached to the terminals of the switch. Push up on the plunger and the lights go out inside.

I suspect that the switch acts as some kind of fail-safe. The thinking being that when the roof is down, no one is using the inside lights so why not break the circuit. But - WHO CARES! I've already got a switch inside that is turned off as part of my "close the camper" script. I don't need another switch to do the same thing and a tangle of wires outside the camper that can loosen or fail. I also wonder how reliably the switch is activated when the roof is lowered, anyway.

So, here's my question. Why shouldn't I just remove the switch and clean up all the wiring?

Thanks,
Ken
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TUC...ew?usp=sharing

[bubbles]

If it wasn't there someone would also question why not. You can modify your rig anyway you choose.

[bikendan]

I've been told that it's to prevent the lights from getting hot and causing a fire, when the roof is down and the lights can contact the canvas.
Both my popups had the plunger kill switch.

[GalsofEscape]

and what if you forgot to turn off the master switch inside and lowered the roof with the lights still on?

Yes, it is a safety feature, so why would you remove it?



Yes, my HW277 had both the master switch and the roof safety switch - did not have any issues.

[akingbfd]

On the 2012 228 model there appears to be two safety interlock switches that disengage when the sink is lowered. Do they both control the 12v lights?

[rfifer]

We had a 2015 277HW. There was an external power cable that I pulled out of the body to attach to the roof before raising it. It served the same purpose as the plunger switch in your photo. It was the power source for the AC and ceiling lights inside the camper. I mention this only as an idea for a mod if you want to move to something apart from the plunger switch.

[GalsofEscape]

Originally Posted by rfifer

We had a 2015 277HW. There was an external power cable that I pulled out of the body to attach to the roof before raising it. It served the same purpose as the plunger switch in your photo. It was the power source for the AC and ceiling lights inside the camper. I mention this only as an idea for a mod if you want to move to something apart from the plunger switch.

interesting - that power cord you mentioned only powered the AC in my 2010 HW277. I still had lights if i did not plug in the AC.

[khackbarth]

Originally Posted by bikendan

I've been told that it's to prevent the lights from getting hot and causing a fire, when the roof is down and the lights can contact the canvas.
Both my popups had the plunger kill switch.

I believe that all the lights are LEDs so they don't get hot...

[khackbarth]

Originally Posted by GalsofEscape

interesting - that power cord you mentioned only powered the AC in my 2010 HW277. I still had lights if i did not plug in the AC.

It only powers the AC in my 2018 HW 277.

[khackbarth]

Originally Posted by akingbfd

On the 2012 228 model there appears to be two safety interlock switches that disengage when the sink is lowered. Do they both control the 12v lights?

The sinks in a High Wall are fixed and aren't lowered.

[khackbarth]

Originally Posted by GalsofEscape

and what if you forgot to turn off the master switch inside and lowered the roof with the lights still on?

Yes, it is a safety feature, so why would you remove it?



Yes, my HW277 had both the master switch and the roof safety switch - did not have any issues.

I think if I lowered the roof with the the interior switch on, the worst thing that would happen would be that my batteries might drain. Not a lot, because they are LED lights. Note that the floor lights aren't on this circuit. Not sure whether the awning lights are out are not.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by khackbarth

I believe that all the lights are LEDs so they don't get hot...

LEDs in Popups, are a recent change.

[DogMan635]

Originally Posted by khackbarth

I have a Rockwood HW 277 and have been struggling the last few days trying to understand why the interior roof lights and roof fan were failing or not working at all. I checked the fuse, measured the voltage at the fuse box (not sure how this should work) and at the interior "roof lights" switch. Then I tried tracing the wiring in the front left corner of the bed up to the roof. As I was pulling on the wires, the lights would flicker.

I used to have a Fleetwood Bayside and that had a wire coupler near the roof that separated once in 10 years of use and caused the interior lights to fail. I wondered if the same thing existed for the Rockwood...

Instead I noticed on the outside of the camper, up under the roof shell, there's a large cut-off switch (see picture). There are a bundle of wires crimped together and attached to the terminals of the switch. Push up on the plunger and the lights go out inside.

I suspect that the switch acts as some kind of fail-safe. The thinking being that when the roof is down, no one is using the inside lights so why not break the circuit. But - WHO CARES! I've already got a switch inside that is turned off as part of my "close the camper" script. I don't need another switch to do the same thing and a tangle of wires outside the camper that can loosen or fail. I also wonder how reliably the switch is activated when the roof is lowered, anyway.

So, here's my question. Why shouldn't I just remove the switch and clean up all the wiring?

Thanks,
Ken
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TUC...ew?usp=sharing

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