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Old 03-18-2015, 01:42 AM   #21
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That is good info. Even though my PUP is new I'll still probably go through and lube it at all those points before I take it out for the season. Just to know it's getting started properly. Thanks for posting.
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Old 03-18-2015, 03:17 PM   #22
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OK.
If you get under the trailer, at each corner you will see a curved metal conduit that conduit needs to be pulled back and 30W motor oil needs to be squirted into the conduit around the large spring that pushes on the corner to raise the roof.
Just remove the two screws and pull the conduit down...



Then squirt some oil into the conduit...


After you are done, push the conduit up and secure with the two bolts.

Now, under the trailer in the center is the track area where the cables go though, on the front and rear are two zerk grease fittings. Pump a lot of grease into each fitting. If this has never been done before, you will probably use an entire 14 oz tube of high pressure lithium grease or synthetic) for each fitting.



It gets easier from here.
Under the winch motor on the trailer frame is a pan held in place by 4 screws. Remove those screws, drop the pan, and then spray a lube such as WD-40 onto the drum and bottom of the gear assembly you will see when looking into it. Then replace the cover.

Now, on top of the winch cover, on the left side as you are looking at it, is a round cover (about 1.5 inches in diameter). Pop that cover off, and make sure it is filled with grease (high pressure lithium grease is ok).


You should also have the axle bearing lubed too. You probably have the EZ lube system, and can just pump grease into the zerk fittings until the old grease starts to come out the outer edge of the axle.
Great information! Only knew of the zerk fittings.
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Old 03-20-2015, 06:49 AM   #23
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I just wanted to chime in with my thanks to f5moab as well! I was going to bring the camper to my local Camping World to have this done, but I think I will try to do it myself! I am fairly capable when it comes to this type of mechanics, so I am hopeful!
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Old 03-20-2015, 06:59 AM   #24
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You go back a looooong way
Still have a few left with the WP on the head of the bolts.
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Old 03-20-2015, 07:38 AM   #25
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I just wanted to chime in with my thanks to f5moab as well! I was going to bring the camper to my local Camping World to have this done, but I think I will try to do it myself! I am fairly capable when it comes to this type of mechanics, so I am hopeful!
You're welcome. I just did mine yesterday morning. Have fun.
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Old 03-20-2015, 11:41 AM   #26
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Still have a few left with the WP on the head of the bolts.
Surprised they didn't say Mayflower
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Old 03-20-2015, 11:55 AM   #27
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Surprised they didn't say Mayflower
Leif Eriksen gave me a few.
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Old 03-20-2015, 02:08 PM   #28
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The old West Pullman IH IL plant; been a long time.

Just have to ask OC, do you belong to the International Harvest Collectors Collectors Chapter 37 in Eastern NC?

https://www.facebook.com/IHCC37
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Old 03-20-2015, 02:25 PM   #29
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The old West Pullman IH IL plant; been a long time.

Just have to ask OC, do you belong to the International Harvest Collectors Collectors Chapter 37 in Eastern NC?

https://www.facebook.com/IHCC37
No I don't. Have some special toy combines and tractors that were only sold to employees tho'.
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Old 03-20-2015, 08:06 PM   #30
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Thanks!

Thanks so much for the very informative and straight forward tutorial! Bookmarked this thread as I know I won't be able to find it when I want to do the task. Keep it coming everyone, there is so much information here.
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Old 04-24-2015, 04:30 PM   #31
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Thank You!

This is a great thread and I appreciate the information. I do have a question though. When oiling the spring conduits, is it better to this with the roof up or down? Probably a stupid question, but I just want to be sure about this.
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Old 04-24-2015, 04:38 PM   #32
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I've always done it with the top down. And after doing the greasing, oiling, I raise the roof to apply some dry lubricant to the four uprights.
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Old 04-29-2015, 03:08 PM   #33
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Is white lithium greease spray or heavy duty silcone spray considered dry lube? At Walmart now getting grease and that is what I find for sprays. Thanks
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Old 04-29-2015, 03:38 PM   #34
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Neither. Dry Lube will be labeled Dry Lube.
Example...

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Old 04-29-2015, 03:49 PM   #35
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At Walmart I could only find Dry Lube over by the RV section with the hoses, connectors, patio mats etc. they didn't have it in the lubtication section.

I got a can of Liquid Wrench dry lube for sliders (with cerflon) for around $5. There was a bigger can of camco stuff for $12 but it was only a few more ounces.
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Old 04-29-2015, 03:50 PM   #36
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Neither. Dry Lube will be labeled Dry Lube.
Example...

Awesome, thanks. I didn't think that was correct. I will try another store.
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Old 04-29-2015, 03:55 PM   #37
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Thanks for the great info. I have a 2015 HW27KS I bought from Robert's Sale. Awesome folks and a great place to do business.
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Old 04-29-2015, 04:19 PM   #38
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Auto part stores carry it. Quite popular for lubricating seals as well as RV parts.
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Old 04-29-2015, 08:10 PM   #39
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At Walmart I could only find Dry Lube over by the RV section with the hoses, connectors, patio mats etc. they didn't have it in the lubtication section.

I got a can of Liquid Wrench dry lube for sliders (with cerflon) for around $5. There was a bigger can of camco stuff for $12 but it was only a few more ounces.
Thanks, I had already left the store before I got this. I had looked over there but wasn't looking for this so I didn't look for it. Oh well. I will pick some up tomorrow at the Auto store and this will be a little project for me at the campsite on Saturday. Got underneath and lubed the tubes tonight. Now I just need to oil the four lower corners.
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Old 04-30-2015, 10:21 AM   #40
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I did this last year referring to the original post. Only difference, on the conduit/springs I used 90 or 120 wt. gear oil and put it in with a large bore syringe (from feed store). Thought it would last longer. I also temporarily covered the weep holes on the bottom of the sweep with tape to keep the oil from running out before it was fully distributed. Has worked fine so far. The newer winches do not have the worm gear, so no grease there and they indicated no lubrication needed. I did however spray the winch with light oil and lithium grease on the gears. On the right side there may be a clutch mechanism that I also sprayed. That might have been a mistake as the top now drops about an inch or so after fully extended. Not a problem, but just saying.
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