1992 Flagstaff - 8ft Project

92_Flagstaff · 09-20-2009, 01:38 PM

Is this forum operated by Forest River or independent? Just curious. Either way I am happy to have stumbled upon it.

I have posted a thread elsewhere regarding my cheap purchase, and the process I've gone through to-date to get it usable. Thought it may be good to post it here as well. >warning< its a looong topic...lol. Enjoy.

__________________________________________________ _____
08-15-2009

I just recently acquired a used pup, a 1992 Flagstaff. I've had a few others in the past, but this is the newest pup I've owned yet.

I only paid $100 CDN for it !!

Here's what the advertisement said:

Quote:

Address: Hamilton, ONDate Listed: 04-Aug-09
I have a 1992 Flagstaff tent trailer for sale for parts or to fix up
$100 firm
need gone asap or going to the dump with it

In any event I called and the story was the usual complaint that the trailer wouldn't pop up and that it has some 'loose trim' on the front end. Canvas was reported to be in good condition.

Here's what is looked like when I picked it up:

Was able to figure out why the lifting mechanism wasn't not working. Master link on the front chain was busted. Replaced master link and the front goes up and down now. Three of the four telescoping rods work fine now, and the last one is functioning but the telescoping rod seems a bit bent and hangs-up a bit when lowering it. Canvas appears okay, except for a very small hole in the canvas upper front corner which should be repairable. Hole is about the size of a quarter at most.

The roof is rotten on three sides. Top platform section itself is okay.

Here's what is looks like now. I think it looks just fine, and for $100 its should be just useable. Its only 8ft long, but will sleep the 4 of us and the dog.

92_Flagstaff · 09-20-2009, 01:40 PM

08-15-2009

Note the duct tape on the front holding it together for the moment. Red Green would be proud of me!

Questions:

Are the telescoping rods and springs still available for purchase? This is a Goshen lift system. I'm intimately familiar with how they work now

I know how to get the telescoping rod out, and I know how to get the spring out of the rod, but I have no idea how to get the spring off the chain connection. Anyone have any words of wisdom here? I'm just not sure how to get the spring off from the connector, as I have yet to see an area where that connector is exposed for access. Should I see it when the trailer is fully raised, or fully down? I have the diagram of the system from the web.

Where is a good place to get replacement aluminum dimpled material (shown in red below) for the front of my roof? I have a friend with a sheet metal brake that can bend it for me. I'm hoping to bend it like shown and seal it up really well, rather than replace the entire roof skin. I figure if I leave the rear of the roof 1/4" low the rain should go that direction rather than pool at the front. Thoughts?

Thanks for reading. I'm hoping to be an active participant here. If anyone has any advice for me...I'm all ears!

/Chris

92_Flagstaff · 09-20-2009, 01:40 PM

08-16-2009

I made some progress today. I knew I wanted to get the lift rods out to clean them up, and I need to fix the roof.... so there was no use waiting. Time to remove the canvas. Took about 30 minutes to remove all the interior cushions, curtains, and canvas. Wasn't too hard. I did have to disconnect the wiring that is routed up to the roof for the interior lights.

I was then able to see the roofing material a lot easier, and to inspect where the rotten areas were.

92_Flagstaff · 09-20-2009, 01:41 PM

08-16-2009

92_Flagstaff · 09-20-2009, 01:42 PM

08-16-2009

92_Flagstaff · 09-20-2009, 01:42 PM

08-16-2009

I built a 2x4 frame, added material to the supports for protecting the roof interior, then set the roof aside.

Pulled the side trim, end caps and side wood off.

92_Flagstaff · 09-20-2009, 01:43 PM

08-16-2009

92_Flagstaff · 09-20-2009, 01:44 PM

08-16-2009

I'm stuck at this point, until I call a few RV places to see if they happen to have 1/2" in 4 x 10ft OSB. The side boards are about 8-1/2ft long, and of course the retail lumber places only offer it in 8ft lengths. I may have to lap joint it if I can't locate a long enough sheet.

I'll need to pick up lots of butyl tape as well. That stuff sure is sticky.

Not sure what to do about the upper roof material. Closer inspection shows this roof has quite a lot of hail damage. I'm considering EPDM rubber sheet over the top and front/rear ends. Then re-use the aluminum on the sides. Doubt I'll be able to locate aluminum sheet to do the top itself.

May opt to replace the roof vent as well. Probably the easiest time to do it and I notice a few hairline cracks in the plastic framing around it.

Progress for today has halted. Will call some RV places this week for more advice and materials.

92_Flagstaff · 09-20-2009, 01:44 PM

08-17-2009

I phoned several lumber yards, and one place that is known for specialty plywood. Also tried phoning some RV places to see if the had special length wood available. Came up empty handed. I'm sure its out there, I just can't find it.

Moving ahead, I decided to go for exterior grade ply 8ft long, and lap joint it together with PL Premium with wood screws. I will add wooden dowels (removing the screws) tomorrow once the joint cures.

I think it looks okay.

While at the building supply store today, I found some aluminum sheet (valley roof flashing) that is big enough to replace the front panel. Still deciding what is the best approach, and yet still economical. Its not dimpled material like the original sheeting, but I have read about some white elastomeric coating (Kool Seal) that can be applied to the entire roof, like paint. That might conceal my repair. The EPDM rubber membrane is too expensive for this repair. minimum order length is 21ft is near $600 from what I can see online.

Not sure if anyone is reading this stuff, but hopefully someone else who is facing the same type of repair finds it helpful.

Cheers.

92_Flagstaff · 09-20-2009, 01:45 PM

08-19-2009

No real progress today. I did phone Goshen Stampings to see about getting lifter parts. They were nice to talk to , but quickly advised me that my lift system was not a Goshen system. Similar, but the rotary chain drive at the ends clearly made it the "less than reliable" Forrest River version and they gave me the number to call.

Then I spoke with a real nice gentleman at Forrest River who emailed me a bunch of documents detailing operating and maintenance procedures along with parts diagrams for the roof, and gave me the contact info for the parts department.

I hope to hear back tomorrow from the parts department regarding replacement springs and corner lifting posts.

Tried to pick up a sheet of blue denim colored formica tonight to cover the inside perimeter of the roof. The will be a better material than the original fabric (my opinion) and it also beefs up the thickness/stiffness of the side wood panels from 1/2" to near 5/8" which the old ones appear to be. I misjudged, thinking they were only 1/2". Apparently the stores don't actually stock formica anymore and wanted me to order it in. I'll find someone with something 'blue' in stock I'm sure.

Off to glue dowels into plywood lap joints....

92_Flagstaff · 09-20-2009, 01:45 PM

08-20-2009

Update for today. My 8 yr old daughter has been helping me every step of the way, every day. what a trooper she is. Loving every minute of it and she never wants to stop.

Today I had several conversations with Forrest River parts, and Steph was great at getting back to me almost instantly. I've ordered all new lift springs, telescoping tubes, chain connectors and a new crank handle. All should be enroute to me tomorrow. A lot of work to install it I'm sure, but it should be popping up like new after that. Surprisingly, parts weren't very expensive.

Last night I finished up the lap joint on the sides, added 6 wooden 3/8 dowels to each for rigidity. Looks good I think. Splice joint is about 18 inches back from the end to avoid landing directly where the uprights bolt to the roof.

Couldn't locate and blue Formica in stock anywhere, so I settled on a tan marble. Blends in fine with the existing roof material and the counters/floor etc. In reality you won't be able to see much of it when the pup is raised as the canvas and tracks cover most of it, but at least I know its there. Makes be feel better knowing there will be less exposed wood. Used best quality contact cement I could find, and then routed the edges to finish it off.

Being over 8ft long, this has a butt joint as well.

92_Flagstaff · 09-20-2009, 01:46 PM

08-22-2009

No progress yesterday. Today though, I received my parts from Forrest River. New lift springs, telescoping tubes, chain connectors and a new crank handle all arrived in one box. Not looking forward to crawling into those tight cubby holes to work on the lift system again, but it will be worth it in the end. Probably tomorrow's project.

Tonight I mounted the four side panels. Interior trim looks good. Everything seems to fit okay, so far.

92_Flagstaff · 09-20-2009, 01:47 PM

08-22-2009

I opted only to use the formica on the side panels, leaving the end panels raw wood.

Having peeled back the rear sheathing, I remounted the exterior trim temporarily to make sure the aluminum extrusion and sheathing fit back together well.

What adhesive should I use to adhere the aluminum to the wood? Its not sitting flat as it is and I think bonding it to the wood may look better. Contact cement okay?

I wish I thought about ordering the bottom gasket with my order. Doubtful the local dealer will have it in stock. I'll replace it later I suppose.

That's it for today. Tomorrow morning I'm off to see if my local dealer has Eternabond tape and some rubber roof coating, like KoolSeal. If I am really lucky, they will have aluminum material to fix the damage in the front. We'll see.

What type of silicone sealant should I use for the exterior trim, or what sealant to use if silicone is not a good idea?

Is there a special way (tool to use, or some type of liquid release agent) to make removing the old silicone easier? Some of it peels off easily, but in other areas it has a super strong bond. Must be different types.

92_Flagstaff · 09-20-2009, 01:47 PM

08-25-2009

I worked most of the weekend rebuilding the roof, but didn't take pictures along the way. Roof is re-assembled, except for corner caps and bottom gasket.

This is probably a good place for a before/after shot.

BEFORE:

AFTER:

BEFORE:

AFTER:

92_Flagstaff · 09-20-2009, 01:48 PM

08-25-2009

When I visited the local RV shop, they had lots of advice. I haven't decided what the best long term solution is fo the front sheathing, so I opted for the less perfect EPDM patch for now. I looks okay.

The perimeter trim was sealed with butyl tape and silicone. I have replacement corner caps, bottom seal, and screws cover strip on the way from Forrest River.

One of the four new corner posts was assembled at the factory incorrectly. The mounting hole at the top of the telescoping post is 90° from where it should be. The post assembly is riveted together so I cannot easily remove the smallest rod to reposition it. I'll see what they they recommend.

Tonight I installed the three good corner posts. Hopefully this weekend I will have time to work on the lifting system and re-install the roof.

92_Flagstaff · 09-20-2009, 01:49 PM

08-26-2009

Good news Forest River is sending me a replacement lifting post. No problemo.

Tonight I moved the roof outside, and brought the trailer inside, to move ahead with the lifting mechanism.

First step was to remove all the trim from the top edges, and then remove the bunk ends.

Then focussed my attention on the front lift mechanism, and removed the door side cabinet to make it easier. Just a few screws and out it came.

92_Flagstaff · 09-20-2009, 01:49 PM

08-26-2009

The master link I had repaired had broken again, and I have replacements now. I took the adjustable pulley end of the mechanism out.

92_Flagstaff · 09-20-2009, 01:50 PM

08-26-2009

The spring and chain traveler on this end looks good. Here you can see how the spring attaches, and one of many master links on the chain (4 on each end).

This looks like a lot of work, but its not too bad. Just a bunch of screws. Dis-assembly probably goes a lot quicker than re-assembly.

The main camper is in great condition. The walls show almost no impact from moisture. Floor is not perfect, but its not in need of any attention at this time.

92_Flagstaff · 09-20-2009, 01:51 PM

08-30-2009

Continuing with pics. After removing all of the front interior trim and lift system, I cleaned up the factory wiring with ties.

The cotter pin was missing from the front tensioner shaft. If you look at the angle the drilled it at, I can see why. You'd never be able to get one in.

92_Flagstaff · 09-20-2009, 01:51 PM

08-30-2009

I re-drilled the hole, straight. Fits better now.

While I had the ratchet mechanism apart, I noticed the washer and pin on the end were in poor condition.

I wasn't sure what the washer was supposed to look like, but I machined a top-hat stye bushing in stainless and installed a new pin. This took a lot of slop out of the ratchet. Just like new again.

Someone mentioned rusting lift mechanisms, and this one had a bit of surface rust. Wire brushed it, then painted it to help slow down the corrosion. You can see the new 1/2" conduit tie rod installed as well. Installing new master links on the chains was a bear, to say the least. Its hard to get tiny parts in there with fat fingers. All lift posts are new, the springs are re-used for now, with new master links on the chains and new fasteners everywhere.

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