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Old 05-18-2017, 07:22 AM   #1
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2003 rockwood pop-up hard to crank up

Renovating 2003 rockwood pop-up.It is pretty hard to crank up. Found that the fresh water tank had dropped a bit due to a broken bolt. Fixed this but noticed that the master tube looked to be bent down. Lubed the zerks.
Any ideas how to straighten the master tube? I've considered using a jack to try to raise it. Thanks
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Old 05-18-2017, 04:12 PM   #2
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<<snip>>... the master tube looked to be bent down. Lubed the zerks.
Any ideas how to straighten the master tube? <<snip>>
If the tube is not pinched, a modest bend should not create that much resistance - especially if you just greased it. I believe the cable running though the tubes makes a 90 degree turn at each corner, so a modest change of direction should not make that much difference - unless there's more to the sag in the pipe than you described.

With that assumption, I'd suggest looking more deeply for another cause. If something is binding - or dragging due to no lube, a cable off a pulley, or some other reason, you might damage or break the cable and pipe system, and that could turn this into a nasty, expensive repair.

I don't know that your lift mechanism is represented in this diagram/description - https://www.customcylindersintinc.co...f-lift-systems - but this gives you an idea of the complexity of a typical lift (Goshen system).

You might Google the precise data for your camper (make/model/year/other) and see if you can get an exact match for your lift. From there, you may be able to download a detailed manual or diagram that will point you to potential trouble spots.

As for jacking the tube, the one thing that could ruin your day would be to crush or kink the tube. If you can't muster the strength to straighten the tube with your hands, I'd be concerned that the tube - perhaps made from material similar to thin-wall conduit - could get crushed, kink, or even crack.

If you try this, you might make a "cradle" for the tube with about 12" of 2"x4" with a groove in the board to nest the tube. If you have bench tools like a table saw, you already know how to do this. If not, take a circular saw and a rip guide and make repeated cuts, about 1/2" deep, side by side, in the center of the 3 1/2" wide side of the board. MAKE THE GROOVE IN A LONGER BOARD FIRST AND THEN CUT THE BOARD TO LENGTH.
Once the groove is just barely wide enough to fit the tube SNUGLY, place it on the underside of the tube and GENTLY begin jacking. Unless there is open space above to tube to allow it to go slightly beyond straight, when you release jack pressure, it will spring back to a slight sag, but that would certainly be straight enough.

One other suggestion. Call a Rockwood dealer SERVICE DESK and ask if the sticking lift is a problem and where to look first. I've had VERY good luck getting phone advice by telling the dealer (truthfully) that I live more than an hour from the dealer. If I need proprietary parts, I order from them and have them mailed/shipped. They've never refused to help me with a DIY repair. I'm not sure when Forest River bought Rockwood, but be prepared for the fact that Forest River dealers may not be completely familiar with older Rockwoods. But if they've seen the problem a few times, they may know where to point you.

Good luck.
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Old 05-18-2017, 04:48 PM   #3
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The 2003 used the Goshen system and that system has ONE cable. This is a diagram I made up that briefly shows how the system works. I made it up after swapping out the cable and installing a manual winch a year or two ago.



Basically how it works is:
There is a cable that has two pushers crimped onto the cable; one at the very end, one stategically located approx. half-way on the cable (however true position of the center pusher is determined by the size of the trailer box). There are two floating pusher plates that are pushed by the rear and center pusher when the cable is wound onto the winch.

The cable goes from the winch into the lower part of the center tube assembly (some call it a wiffletree), through the rear pulley and back into the top part of the center tube.

There are two rear springs (spot welded at the end) that go into the top tube and butt up against the rear pusher plate, the front springs come into the front of the tube assembly in the lower tube and butt up against the center pusher plate. (These upper and lower tubes are oblong not round.)

As the winch is turned, the cable is wound onto the winch and pulls the cable, the center plate pushes against the front springs, pushing the springs up into the two conduits and pushing up the front of the trailer.
At the same time, the rear pusher plate is pushing against the rear springs, pushed the rear springs up into the conduit and pushing up the rear corners of the trailer roof.

The rear pulley is used for adjusting the cable length for the rear springs to allow the front and rear springs to push up equally to raise the roof equally front to rear.

Hope that helps in understanding how the system works and Rockwoods 1994 are supposed to have this type of system, or it says on the Goshen website.

If the tube is bent enough to hinder the movement of the cable or springs it could cause some problems, but not sure if straitening with a jack would help or hurt. Maybe a bit more finesse with pliers and a large screwdriver might be better? Can't say since I am not under the trailer.

Have you lubed the spring tubes (conduits)? They require some oil to allow the springs to move inside freely.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...h-60970-6.html

Last page are some photos of how to lube the tubes (conduits).
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Old 05-19-2017, 01:59 PM   #4
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Thanks for the good advice. This will give me a good place to start.
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Old 05-20-2017, 07:31 PM   #5
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roof hard to crank

I know you said you greased the cable but I found on the Goshen system there are two zert fittings one on top and one on the bottom you should fill the tube with grease if it has not been greased for a long time it will take a whole tube of grease to fill the tube When I bought mine and started the rebuild it took a whole tube of grease to crank up the roof and you need to look at the support post and shoot some heavy oil in the little holes at the inside bottom of the support post where they slide op and down in the walls also you need to shoot some oil in the conduit on the underside of the camper .then with the roof raised fully up spray some dry silicone on the post but before spraying put a piece of cardboard over the canvas the silicone will take the waterproofing out of the tent material. By doing this I went from using two hands to crank to one hand .hope this helps You might put some cardboard on the ground too to catch the excess grease that falls on the ground.good luck
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Old 05-23-2017, 08:00 AM   #6
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Thanks for the info. I greased the zerks but with just a few pumps. I'll use your suggestion and really get it loaded with grease. Thanks again
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Old 05-25-2017, 06:18 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lwherron View Post
Renovating 2003 rockwood pop-up.It is pretty hard to crank up. Found that the fresh water tank had dropped a bit due to a broken bolt. Fixed this but noticed that the master tube looked to be bent down. Lubed the zerks.
Any ideas how to straighten the master tube? I've considered using a jack to try to raise it. Thanks
Have you checked on popupportal.com? When I had my popup trailer I always found answers an cool ideals on that site !! Good Luck an Happy Camping!!!!
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Old 05-25-2017, 08:46 AM   #8
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hard to crank

popupportal is a great place for pup answers,
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