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Old 05-08-2020, 08:24 PM   #1
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2012 Rockwood HW 276 Pop-up Furnace Issue

Hi Everyone-
Just brought home a 2012 Rockwood Pop-up and for the 1st time I am trying to get the furnace turned on. For some reason I can't get it figured out, or find any instructions online on how to do it. I turned the propane on, verified that propane was flowing to the stove, turned the furnace lever to heat, and it clicked a couple times, and did nothing. I have tired to troubleshoot a few things, but can't really figure anything out. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thank you!
Jeremy
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Old 05-08-2020, 08:26 PM   #2
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Usually the fan starts first then it lights. Time to get the multi meter out and see where you get voltage.
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Old 05-08-2020, 08:34 PM   #3
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So your fan is not running when you turn up the thermostat?
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Old 05-08-2020, 08:36 PM   #4
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No, it clicked a bunch of times, but no fan came on in the furnace area
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Old 05-08-2020, 08:37 PM   #5
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So your fan is not running when you turn up the thermostat?
On my 2013 HW276....you turn up the thermostat, the fan turns on and the burner tries to ignite....
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Old 05-08-2020, 08:42 PM   #6
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no, just some clicking, fan doesn't kick on, not sure what to do now or check to see what is going on.
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Old 05-08-2020, 08:57 PM   #7
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no, just some clicking, fan doesn't kick on, not sure what to do now or check to see what is going on.
Fan should run first. Im not sure but is there a fuse in the panel for the fan on the heater? Would check all associated fuses. If the fan doesnt run I doubt the burner will ignite(safety feature). Hope this helps??
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Old 05-08-2020, 09:48 PM   #8
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Fan has to run to operate the sail switch so the gas can flow and the igniter to light.
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Old 05-09-2020, 02:10 PM   #9
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2012 unit - check for insect webs/nests in the gas tube (not allowing gas flow to burner).


Bob
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Old 05-09-2020, 05:11 PM   #10
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I can post this by rote

I've done this and I've posted about it enough times I don't have to look at the manual.

There is a single motor in the furnace with a shaft at each end. One end drives a squirrel-cage blower that circulates air through the RV. The other end drives another blower that brings fresh air into the firebox through the upper vent on the outside of the trailer and exhausts burned gases through the lower vent.

Startup sequence for Suburban SF-series furnaces:
  • When you change the thermostat from Off to Heat and/or turn the thermostat to a temperature higher than the current room temperature...
  • After about 15 seconds, the fans run for another 15 seconds or so to clear the firebox of any propane from prior ignition attempts.
  • During this period a moving-air-activated switch (the "sail switch") detects whether the blowers are moving enough air to safely proceed. If there is sufficient air flow, a solenoid valve opens the flow of propane. (You might not hear this single click.)
  • An electrical spark repeatedly occurs to attempt to ignite the propane. You can hear about 7 seconds of sparks (sounds like clicks), about once a second. If the burner ignites, the furnace will run until the thermostat set-point is reached or you shut it off. If the burner fails to ignite, the fan may run for a period to purge the propane before shutting down. Once this happens, the furnace will not re-attempt to light until you turn the thermostat from Heat to Off and back to Heat.

The Suburban furnaces are NOTORIOUSLY fussy about igniting.
  • One common cause is that mud daubers (wasps) have built nests in the outside vents. Look for two 3" diameter vents arranged vertically in a chrome grille. Poke around with a wire and make sure the vents are not clogged.
  • A second common cause is air in the lines. If you've run the range and then done several furnace attempts, you've probably satisfied this condition.
  • A third common cause (this will surprise you) is the propane regulator (outside, by the tanks) has failed. As regulators fail, they begin to allow too much pressure to the furnace. The correct pressure is 11" water column (about 1/2 psi.) Mine would not light with 14". A new regulator solved the problem. I later learned that regulators commonly fail at 8-10 years and yours is due. You won't see a problem at the range because it uses an even lower pressure and has a secondary regulator inside. The water heater seems to be more tolerant, too.

Here's a useful manual.
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Old 05-10-2020, 12:03 PM   #11
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so, this is probably a dumb thing to say but, how´s your 12v power. have you checked that you have a charged battery and/or the TT plugged to a 110 source? First you need power. the second thing i would check is the thermostat, they do fail ou know?
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Old 05-10-2020, 02:21 PM   #12
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https://www.forestriverforums.com/for...d8ffca346db21b

I have attached a link from the library at the top of this page. It is a trouble shooting guide for suburban furnaces. Around page 24 is a sequence of operations to help troubleshoot with.

From what you have posted so far if you have turned the thermostat to the off position and back to heat it sounds like the fan sail switch is stuck in the fan on position which will lock out the furnace operation out and not let the fan to start the furnace.
it is also possible that the thermostat has failed.

Hope this helps Tim
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Old 05-10-2020, 02:58 PM   #13
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Dubious

Quote:
Originally Posted by TimVWulp View Post
https://www.forestriverforums.com/for...d8ffca346db21b

I have attached a link from the library at the top of this page. It is a trouble shooting guide for suburban furnaces. Around page 24 is a sequence of operations to help troubleshoot with.

From what you have posted so far if you have turned the thermostat to the off position and back to heat it sounds like the fan sail switch is stuck in the fan on position which will lock out the furnace operation out and not let the fan to start the furnace.
it is also possible that the thermostat has failed.

Hope this helps Tim
Tim, I am dubious.
I'm not even sure there is a check for the sail switch in the ON position, but if there were, it would be BEFORE the fan runs and certainly BEFORE the igniter makes its attempts. The OP has stated that he hears the fan run and the igniter sparks (clicks).

There is definitely a check for the sail switch stuck in the OFF position. Similarly, if it were stuck, there would not be ignition attempts.

When I first started my education into Suburban furnaces, I posted in some other forum (not FRF) and someone said I should replace the sail switch. I explained that the control process had gone beyond that step and was attempting ignition. That person recommended I replace it anyway. I concluded that the sail switch function was the only part he understood.

Since then I've seen dozens of posts on FRF about Suburban furnaces. It has never been the sail switch. It has either been the regulator, mud daubers in the vent, or (occasionally) low propane where the regulator limits the propane flow once it crosses to the second bottle.

If you've actually had to replace a sail switch and that was the repair, I'd love to learn about it.
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