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Old 03-20-2018, 08:10 AM   #21
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There are possibly two other switches in a highwall popup that i think affects the 12 volt system. There is a master switch inside the camper that turns off the lights. In my old highwall that switch was located in the cabinet wall just inside the entry door. But I think you may be aware of that switch. There is also a pressure switch under the roof. On my 2011 hw277 it was just under the front roof edge on the driver's side. This was not a switch that they showed me in the pdi. I just happened to find it and it seems to be a safety switch to cut out the lights when the roof is lowered. Just some other possibilities but if the lights work with shore power I doubt they are your issue but I mention them as an FYI.
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Old 03-20-2018, 01:40 PM   #22
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As far as I know, none of FR popups have a factory battery disconnect switch.
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Old 03-29-2018, 05:17 PM   #23
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Finally got around to testing with a multimeter and there is current through the switch ... so that's not it.

The master switch is on ... everything works on shore power ... the battery has juice ... the fuses look Ok. I don't see a roof switch (I have seen that on a Jayco that we rented a couple years ago).

Any other ideas on where to look? Any testing that can be done with the multimeter on the converter?
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Old 03-29-2018, 06:28 PM   #24
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Check the two main fuses on the converter. 30's I believe. Take a picture for us if you can.
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Old 03-29-2018, 09:35 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FriedOkra View Post
I've hit the reset button on the inverter, but that doesn't do it.

How does one test the inverter? I'm assuming this could be my problem. it's not required for converting plug in power just the batt power, right? This is where my electrical ignorance is apparent.
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Roger that. Unlikely to have been modified by previous. I purchased used at a Camping World (not my finest decision). The reset button was on the converter, which is at the floor in the corner ... looks stock.

Thanks for all the replies. I wish I could tinker with it now ... but rain.
FriedOkra, I am still curious about this reset button your refer to. Could you please post a pic of this? Thanks

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Finally got around to testing with a multimeter and there is current through the switch ... so that's not it.
Also, can I ask how exactly you tested for current thru this 12 volt DC circuit breaker?
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Old 03-29-2018, 10:06 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FriedOkra View Post
Finally got around to testing with a multimeter and there is current through the switch ... so that's not it.

The master switch is on ... everything works on shore power ... the battery has juice ... the fuses look Ok. I don't see a roof switch (I have seen that on a Jayco that we rented a couple years ago).

Any other ideas on where to look? Any testing that can be done with the multimeter on the converter?
if you have lights while on shore power your converter is working. What is the voltage on the battery with the shore power disconnected? Did you check the 2 fuses I asked about?
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Old 03-29-2018, 10:10 PM   #27
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if you have lights while on shore power your converter is working. What is the voltage on the battery with the shore power disconnected? Did you check the 2 fuses I asked about?
Haven't checked yet; will tomorrow. Raining here now.
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Old 03-29-2018, 10:13 PM   #28
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Generators
Conventional generators have a motor attached to an alternator that produces electricity. The motor must run at a constant speed usually, 3600 rpm to produce the standard frequency of 60 cycle current. If the engine’s rpm fluctuates, so will the frequency of electric output.

Converters
Converters are powered by 120 v AC current and changes it to 12 v DC current. No motor involved. Except cooling fan.

Inverters
A traditional inverter is powered by a 12 volt battery and produces 120v AC at limited wattage. No motor involved. Commonly used in Motor homes and high-end 5th wheels. .


Inverter Generators

These are motor driven 3-phase generators that output AC current like most traditional generators, but that current is then converted to DC, and then “inverted” back to clean AC power and frequency

They are called “inverter generators” but since people tend to simplify terminology, “inverter generator” often gets changed, sometimes to “inverter” and sometimes to “generator” which leads to confusion as which one is being discussed. Both terms are commonly used to refer to inverter generators.
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Old 03-29-2018, 10:15 PM   #29
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FriedOkra, I am still curious about this reset button your refer to. Could you please post a pic of this? Thanks
That was just the reset on the GFCI outlet on the same panel/plate as the converter. I will post a pic of the panel tomorrow.

Quote:
Also, can I ask how exactly you tested for current thru this 12 volt DC circuit breaker?
An earlier poster said to switch the meter to Ohm and put a lead on each post ... it pegged out, so I took that to mean the switch is not 'off' or blown as current can pass. I very likely misunderstood.
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Old 03-29-2018, 10:17 PM   #30
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Converters
Converters are powered by 120 v AC current and changes it to 12 v DC current. No motor involved. Except cooling fan.
Pretty sure this is it. Will post a pic tomorrow.
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Old 03-29-2018, 10:19 PM   #31
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What is the voltage on the battery with the shore power disconnected?
How can I check this voltage? Dealer told me it was a new batt. Looks new.
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Old 03-29-2018, 11:10 PM   #32
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How can I check this voltage? Dealer told me it was a new batt. Looks new.
Use your meter put in on DC volts. one lead on + one lead on -. Looks don't make it work. Do this without shore power. Tell us exactly what it is. 11, 11.5, 12, 12.5, 13, 13.5 etc. Then hook up shore power and test it again.

If you have a GFI on your unit it is an inverter. Sounds like PO installed one.

go find you converter. It has 12 volt fuses on it. the converter will have the 30 a fuses I asked about.
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Old 03-30-2018, 06:57 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FriedOkra
Quote:
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FriedOkra, I am still curious about this reset button your refer to. Could you please post a pic of this? Thanks
That was just the reset on the GFCI outlet on the same panel/plate as the converter. I will post a pic of the panel tomorrow.
I am still curious about this now, especially when you say the same plate as the converter. I will await your pic when you get time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FriedOkra
Quote:
Also, can I ask how exactly you tested for current thru this 12 volt DC circuit breaker?
An earlier poster said to switch the meter to Ohm and put a lead on each post ... it pegged out, so I took that to mean the switch is not 'off' or blown as current can pass. I very likely misunderstood.
Ahhh, it's just a terminology thing. You were testing for resistance (aka continuity). This is measured in Ohm's.

What had me confused was when you originally said "current" which is measured in amps. It's all good now.

Continuity/Resistance is one way to see if power is getting thru the DC circuit breaker (as to if the circuit breaker is open or closed), which it should be closed (as we want it to be) via your test. I understand now.

We may retest this later to see if enough DC voltage is passing, but I think the trouble may lay elsewhere as of right now.
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Old 03-30-2018, 07:11 AM   #34
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Ok, finally had the opportunity to take a look and I did find the switch shown in the attached photo, but there is no reset button that I can see or feel. I'm afraid to remove it from the frame as I can't tell if it is a free nut or tack welded as it is inside the frame.


Back on your pic of the 12 volt DC circuit breaker. is the wire on the left hand side going directly to your battery?

Can you see where the two wires on the right are going to (or into)

The reason I'm asking is to make sure we don't have another circuit breaker in line. I also have an inline fuse in my positive battery cable, close to the battery. Does yours possibly have such (examples in pic below)?





This is the problem with just testing the 12 volt DC circuit breaker for continuity. Your test will show that the circuit breaker is closed (which WILL allow power thru), but we don't know if power is actually reaching/going thru the circuit breaker. This is why you would want to test the circuit breaker for "12 volt DC voltage" thru the circuit breaker.....to make sure it's getting to that point.
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Old 03-30-2018, 05:20 PM   #35
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Ok, lots of pics. There is only one red wire from the battery to the switch ... and one from there that goes up through the floor. There is another line at the switch that seems to tie back to the emergency break thingy (locks the breaks up if you disconnect?). I don't see any inline fuses unless they are above the floor.

Pics of converter, fuses, GFCI outlet, etc. The 30amp (2nd from bottom) was in fact blown (wonder if that happened since as i'm 99% certain it was good when I first started this thread). I replaced, but still no power to radio, etc.
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Old 04-04-2018, 04:33 PM   #36
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SOLVED!

Turns out my problems were the result of a bad ground. Trying to head out on our maiden trip on Saturday morning and the trailer light's would not work ... after much consternation and fumbling about with the multimeter I found a ground with zero conductivity. I took it off, cleaned it up with a wire brush, lubed it up with DI grease and voila! everything now works ... shore, battery, everything!

Thanks for all the help ... now to replace that water pump!
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Old 04-04-2018, 05:31 PM   #37
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Check the ground connection to the frame of the camper mine came off last year and I had no battery power
That was the first thing jwh4984 suggested. He now gets a chance at an Old Coot autographed oven mitt.

Glad you got it resolved.
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